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Where do I go in the Nashville area to learn about AR15s?


Joe86

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Posted

I've decided it's time to look into replacing/upgrading my shotgun with an AR15 but it's pretty overwhelming. Where's a good shop to go to to learn about AR15s. My budget is under $1,000.

Thanks

Posted

Don't really understand your question. If you're just after information, you're already in the best shop. 

If you're wanting to learn the mechanics of an AR, build your own.

Posted

What do you need to know?  Are you looking to build your own or buy one already complete?  If you just want to buy, look at the ads here, there are a few available.  If you are looking to build, a would guess many of the shops that sell parts are available for info as well, around here Midsouth or TN Gun Country are good places to start.

Posted

Ask questions here.

If you want to build your own, youtube is covered up with good info and how to vids.

What are you looking for in an AR?

Posted (edited)

There are some good resources here that I have learned from. Just search the threads. 

On a side note. I would not consider an AR an upgrade from shotguns. They both have a purpose. I might have misunderstood but I see them both good for different purposes. Just my .02. 

Edited by spurge
Posted

I don't have any interest in building my own, at least at this point. My interest is learning about the options and finding an existing built gun that most closely fits what I can determine I want. I guess what I need is some schooling and a shop where I can buy a complete gun. 

Posted
15 minutes ago, Joe86 said:

I don't have any interest in building my own, at least at this point. My interest is learning about the options and finding an existing built gun that most closely fits what I can determine I want. I guess what I need is some schooling and a shop where I can buy a complete gun. 

The easiest question is: do you plan to have magnified optics?

second: what is planned use of said rifle?

third: budget,sans accessories and/or optics?

Posted

Optics - I do plan on some sort of Red dot sight, no idea which one.

Planned Use - home defense, general shooting up to 100 - 150 yards

Budget - $1,000 tops without accessories tops

Does this help?

 

Posted

I would suggest Nashville Armory (ask to speak to Sean, Rich, or Sean with the beard) OR Guns and Leather out in Greenbriar. Either way you'll be in good hands in my experience.

Posted

Check out 

Guns and more in Smyrna 

Royal Range on the west side of Nashville

Or

Everything weapons in Cool Springs / Franklin

All are supporters of TGO

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I'll just right ahead and say look at the Ruger AR556 and Smith & Wesson M&P Sport II.  Both are excellent choices in the $650 price range (more or less, ideally less).  

Don't get all wound up on the absurd amount of options and variations.  Start simple. 

Edited by Garufa
  • Like 6
Posted
The recruiter's office.

Does the military teach you which rifles under $1,000 are best in the civilian market?

Guess I need to tell my buddy that was SF that he got screwed, he came out knowing little to nothing of how to put together an AR. How to maintenance one, sure. But actually disassemble, upgrade, and reassemble...no sir.

OP, If you're looking for actual info, you're in the right place. As far as budget friendly options I don't think you can go wrong with either the Ruger 5.56 or the S&W entry models.

  • Like 1
Posted

As mentioned earlier, you aren't really "upgrading" your shotgun, you're just getting a different weapon.

I'll be the wet blanket that says building an AR before you've had your hands on one for a bit isn't anything I'd recommend.  To me, that's like learning how to repair a car before you learn how to drive.  First, try to shoot one if you haven't already.  I'm sure you can find a rental, or a TGO member in your area that will let you get some time behind one.  You might find that you don't like it, and an AK is more to your style.

If you're still wanting to go with an AR after that, first stop would be to find a good used one if I was buying now with your budget.  If you want new out of the box, I'd buy an Anderson or PSA over the Ruger or S&W models mentioned, but that's a personal taste.  You can even post a want to buy ad in the trading post if you don't see one you like.  This is where you'll want to ask a lot of questions and do some research on your own.  Just because someone is selling a gun here isn't a guarantee of quality, just a less likely chance of getting screwed.

Once you know you like ARs, have one in hand, get to Carnegie hall.  That means practice, practice, practice.  Use the cleaning time after your practice to learn the innards of the gun, watch as many videos on it as you like.  The AR is simple enough to start with, but getting to a higher level takes time.

  • Like 2
Posted

Until you get some experience go with the big names and stay away from the other stuff. Smith & Wesson, Ruger, Colt, DPMS and Bushmaster are some of the top names. If you are looking for .223; you can stay Mil-Spec and your options are pretty much unlimited. In .308 that is not an option; they are all over the places and there is little compatibility in options.

Once you get a rifle and start having questions; right here is the place to get the answers.

Welcome to the world of Evil Black Riles (EBR).

Posted

I'd buy the cheapest aluminum lowered rifle that you can find.  PSA has several for $699 now.  Then you have $300 to play with for optics, mags, and ammo.  I'd still recommend building one and saving about $200 for the same build and having that extra money for optics and whatnot.  Building is not complicated. 

Posted

Question for those of you who know ARs:

I went to a local shop to get a M & P sport II. I asked how to attach a light. I was told I need to change out the forend to one that had rails, which they had in stock. I was fine with this. When I ask if they could do it for me they said it had to be done by a gunsmith who had a special tool. This is where the excellent price took a $60+ dollar turn. I thought AR were designed to be easily worked on. Is this something specific to the M & P, or am I going down a rabbit hole from the git go?

Should I look at the Ruger AR with the screw on sleve to avoid having to deal with this or buy the tool?

Thanks

 

Posted

A lot of rail type handguards come with a barrel nut wrench. I'm sure there are some of us local to you who'd loan you one otherwise.

You'd also want a torque wrench as well.

Posted
20 minutes ago, Joe86 said:

Question for those of you who know ARs:

I went to a local shop to get a M & P sport II. I asked how to attach a light. I was told I need to change out the forend to one that had rails, which they had in stock. I was fine with this. When I ask if they could do it for me they said it had to be done by a gunsmith who had a special tool. This is where the excellent price took a $60+ dollar turn. I thought AR were designed to be easily worked on. Is this something specific to the M & P, or am I going down a rabbit hole from the git go?

Should I look at the Ruger AR with the screw on sleve to avoid having to deal with this or buy the tool?

Thanks

 

The M&P Sport doesn’t have quad rails (handguards); they are just plain.

Quality Free float handguards that have rails are not cheap. $60 is cheap; what were they going to put on?

This is the type tool they are talking about...

Posted
29 minutes ago, DaveTN said:

The M&P Sport doesn’t have quad rails (handguards); they are just plain.

Quality Free float handguards that have rails are not cheap. $60 is cheap; what were they going to put on?

This is the type tool they are talking about...

I doubt they were talking of that tool, probably were talking of replacing the delta ring with a barel nut for the handguard they were trying to sell him.  Probably an armorers wrench and torque wrench as stated above.  I say this because though that tool works, it's really not necessary, you can remove those handguards without tools.

Posted
56 minutes ago, Joe86 said:

Question for those of you who know ARs:

I went to a local shop to get a M & P sport II. I asked how to attach a light. I was told I need to change out the forend to one that had rails, which they had in stock. I was fine with this. When I ask if they could do it for me they said it had to be done by a gunsmith who had a special tool. This is where the excellent price took a $60+ dollar turn. I thought AR were designed to be easily worked on. Is this something specific to the M & P, or am I going down a rabbit hole from the git go?

Should I look at the Ruger AR with the screw on sleve to avoid having to deal with this or buy the tool?

Thanks

 

Now you're getting into the real costs of an AR, the accessories.  Would that you could have told us you wanted a light with it, then we could have recommended one with hand guards that could readily accept a mount for one, or an add on rail.  I'll say up front, if you want quality parts, get ready to pay for quality. 

Some rails are drop-in, meaning you don't need a gunsmith to change the barrel nut to put them on, you just need to take off the current handguards.  For your level, that's what I'd go after.  If you want to upgrade your rail/handguard later, you can.  Magpul MOE, or this offering from B5 systems is what I'd recommend.  for a quick way to swap it out and put a light on.  But you're looking at more costs for a good mount, and the light.

 

34 minutes ago, DaveTN said:

This is the type tool they are talking about...

Pffft....the proper tool for that job is man hands. :P

  • Like 2
Posted
18 minutes ago, Omega said:

I doubt they were talking of that tool, probably were talking of replacing the delta ring with a barel nut for the handguard they were trying to sell him.  Probably an armorers wrench and torque wrench as stated above.  I say this because though that tool works, it's really not necessary, you can remove those handguards without tools.

Yep. I have lots of AR tools, but never needed one for a delta ring

Posted (edited)

If all you want to mount is a light, you can buy a Magpul handguard and attach a rail section to it. It's a lot easier to swap with the tool Dave showed above, but it's not really necessary. A bit of brute force can coax the old hanguard off.

Edited by JeffL

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