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School me on uppers


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I'm interested in completing an AR platform rifle. I have purchased a complete lower from Anderson Manufacturing w/ Hogue grip.

I'll admit I'm overwhelmed by all the options available... but rather than just 'take someone's word for it' and buy "X', I'd rather have at least a rudimentary understanding as to WHY I might want X over Z...

I would _like_ to stick w/ Anderson gear, but don't NEED to. I'm particularly interested in their no-lube system, it appears to be quite impressive if it actually works as advertised. I would like to stick w/ a common caliber. The lower is multi-cal, but I'm leaning towards 5.56. I'm pretty sure I don't want 300 Blackout. I don't need a sub-sonic round, don't plan on supressing the gun, if anything, I want a longer-range projectile that pack's some punch... but I think a .308 would be too much.

Stainless 24" Stainless barrel w/ 1:8 twist or 10.5" 1:7 twist? I understand generally speaking the longer barrels generate more pressure, ergo better for longer-range? Twist rate is determined by projectile weight, correct? Heavier bullet, less twist, lighter bullet, more twist?

What features should I look for in a gas block/tube? What separates the 'charging handles' from one another (does it really matter?) Are all bolt control groups the same?

 

- K

 

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If you want to stick with Anderson, I think you'll be fine.  The biggest thing with the upper is making sure it "fits" to your lower tight enough.  Despite uniform specifications, not all uppers and lowers go well together.

The barrel will be determined by what you want it for.  If you're shooting .223/5.56, for everyday purposes, I wouldn't see a need for more than 20", as the round isn't that great at distances where .308 would be a better choice.  Remember, if you want anything less than 16" and a real stock for it, that's an SBR and you need to do all the paperwork and pay the tax stamp.  Again, we need to know what you want this gun to do.  What's the furthest you want to be able to reach out and smack that ass?  With .223/5.56, there is a limit well short of what you would get from a .308.

So, tell us what you want it for, then we can help you build it with parts advice.

As to your other points...

Anderson "no -ube"

Yeah, I'll believe in a no-lube AR when I see it.

What features should I look for in a gas block/tube?

Unless you want the fixed front sight post (the triangle one) just get a decent brand made low-pro gas block so you can slide a good hand guard system over it.  Your real question is where you want that gas block to be...carbine, mid-length, or rifle.  This is determined by the length of your barrel.

What separates the 'charging handles' from one another (does it really matter?)

Depends on what you're using it for.  If you're using a short barrel rifle for close in work like home defense, a fancy dan charging handle can make the difference in working a malfunction drill faster.  For longer distance, the standard charging handle is fine.  Proper cleaning and lubrication makes the most difference on a charging handle, however.

Are all bolt control groups the same?

It's bolt carrier groups.  The quality of manufacturer differs.  But once you're past a certain enough quality level, the differences level off fast.  To quote an armorer I know from another site: " MILSPEC calls for Carpenter 158, shot-peened, heat treated and high pressure/metallic particle inspected."  Also, making sure the carrier key is staked properly is a big deal.  Once you have a few BCG's in mind, post the links and we can chime in.

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All good advice.  To clarify one point, you won't be making a 308 with that ar15 lower. It won't fit.  That's ar AR10 platform, and I really don't recommend even thinking about that until you've got a good ar15 build under your belt.

Happy shooting!

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i read this thread title and my immediate thought was why is there a thread about amphetamines on TGO?

I was going to chime in about the evils. showing my age,  yikes

are they even still a thing?

Edited by Mike.357
  • Like 2
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LOL @ Mike 357!

Mostly plan on using the rifle at the range and around the farm for smaller game and bigger varmints... but I suspect all but a few rounds will punch holes in paper. I purchased the lower in part to ensure I'm able to get one after November... but I figure since it's just sitting in a box under the bed :D, I might as well get the rest of the bits and pieces for it so I can shoot!

Don't want to get into the tax-stamp stuff, though I'm sure it's fun. If anything went that route it would be a can. I've shot a couple supressed AR's and they are nice.

Thanks for the advice on the gas-block... would like to get a set of optics over iron-sights for this thing eventually (but will probably start w/o due to costs). I plink @ 50 and 100 yds w/ a .22 w/V-Notch sights, and... you cover the entire target and then some w/ the front-sight.

 

- K

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2 hours ago, ReeferMac said:

LOL @ Mike 357!

Mostly plan on using the rifle at the range and around the farm for smaller game and bigger varmints... but I suspect all but a few rounds will punch holes in paper. I purchased the lower in part to ensure I'm able to get one after November... but I figure since it's just sitting in a box under the bed :D, I might as well get the rest of the bits and pieces for it so I can shoot!

Don't want to get into the tax-stamp stuff, though I'm sure it's fun. If anything went that route it would be a can. I've shot a couple supressed AR's and they are nice.

Thanks for the advice on the gas-block... would like to get a set of optics over iron-sights for this thing eventually (but will probably start w/o due to costs). I plink @ 50 and 100 yds w/ a .22 w/V-Notch sights, and... you cover the entire target and then some w/ the front-sight.

 

- K

Based on what you said, a standard 5.56mm 16" 1:7 twist barrel will serve the purpose just fine.  I'd recommend mid-length, but if you find a carbine barrel at a can't pass up price, that'll work too.

For a build this simple, buying a barreled upper assembly is usually easier.  Something like this from PSA (once they get it back in stock of course) would be all you need minus a BCG, and optic, and whatever other toys you want to put on there (bipod, sling, backup sites...these things add up quick).   If you build it from parts, you'll need to make sure you find a decent handguard...I'd recommend at least 11-13" on a 16" barrel if you don't get one with a front sight post.  Comparison shopping is you friend here, and if you can hold out, there are usually some deals posted on PSA and Primary Arms for Labor Day.

There are some good ideas about a budget friendly optic in this thread, and in this thread if you want to take a gander for that need.

Not sure how big the farm is, but just be careful with what's past the smaller game and bigger varmints.  Even a basic 5.56mm round will travel a good distance before gravity brings it down completely if your aiming angle is high enough.

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Stick with your idea of Anderson only, it'll make you feel better having a "matched" pair. Skip the 24" barrel idea, that thing is a waste. To make it easy, just get a 16" flat topped upper and add whatever optics you choose(from sounds of things,magnified scope seems like it's in your future). Here's a link to the simple 16" Anderson upper. Remember, when you order optics and a mount, get an AR specific mount. Nikon and Leupold usually have decent deals on AR specific optics with mounts that would cover most budgets. 

http://www.andersonrifles.com/product/anderson-16-complete-upper/

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http://androcorpind.com/index.php?route=common/home

I once bought a very nice and accurate complete upper from this place. I can highly recommend them.

 

Palmetto State Armory is hard to beat on price.

Primary Arms sells good stuff also, as does Bravo Company.

I've yet to buy anything I didn't like from Anderson arms either. I have noticed they don't offer chrome lined barrels, however.

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14 minutes ago, ReeferMac said:

If I may expose my ignorance, what benefit does chrome lining the barrel provide? Wouldn't it just wear off after ### rounds? Or get covered/fouled by all the carbon?

Thanks.

Its a good benefit as it hardens the steel in the bore and makes it last a bit longer.  Melonite does the same and arguably better than chrome but it depends on where you read the comparison.  Either of the two would be ok for most of our purposes though.

  • Like 1
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Ahhhh, thanks for the info!

Anderson does make some chrome-lined one's, but I don't recall seeing them in their upper-parts kits, must be sold separately:

http://www.andersonrifles.com/product/16-chrome-lined-m4-1-7-twist-barrel/

I did notice they have a lot of stainless steel barrels. Is there any advantage beyond weight savings? I was considering a longer-length barrel in stainless (hoping the lighter metal offsets the length).

- K
 

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Well, it's shipping out later today!

I ordered the stainless 24" Barrelled upper from Anderson earlier this week, after contacting customer service... and I gotta say, they were great to deal with. I think speaking with/contacting/eMailing customer service definitely improved the process....:

I emailed support asking when they would be in-stock again, as they've been listed as 'out of stock' for thee last two weeks. Got a response back, check after 4 PM. It was 4:30, I checked, showed 1 in stock! Placed order.

Order said "On hold, will ship in 15-21 days. Emailed support to find out what's holding up, GOT A CALL BACK, that's our standard deal right now b/c of the volume of orders we're taking. OK, thanks, anxious to get it, but I understand, appreciate the call, thanks again, looking forward to getting it...

Got eMail today, Shipped, here's your tracking number.

 

WOO HOO!!!!

 

NOW I've gotta find some glass. It'll be a while before I can afford a NICE scope for this thing (supposedly a 400-yd gun), but is there a cheap system I could get to start out with? Pic rail on the top.

- K

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