Gun safe anchoring - what anchors to use?

[batninja24601]

I have a Cannon safe, ~ 36 x 20 x 60, 500lbs unloaded. I need to anchor it to the concrete slab. It is sitting on carpet in a corner in our bedroom.

I want to be able to unbolt the safe, move it temporarily, and re-anchor it at a later date without creating new holes in the concrete. For example, I know we are going to replace the carpet and repaint in the next year and my wife is not the type to work around the safe. 

Any recommendations?

[Sunfish]

You can use Kwik Bolts but in order to move it you will need to have them ran through some 4x4 or 6x6 runners so you can get under the safe to jack it up above the bolts. Your just slowing them down if they are determined to get into it. Hidden cameras and alarms along with keeping things out of sight is what I recommend.   

[batninja24601]

1 hour ago, Sunfish said:

You can use Kwik Bolts but in order to move it you will need to have them ran through some 4x4 or 6x6 runners so you can get under the safe to jack it up above the bolts. Your just slowing them down if they are determined to get into it. Hidden cameras and alarms along with keeping things out of sight is what I recommend.   

Thanks; I'll take a look at these. I was hoping to find some where the anchor stayed in the concrete and the bolt portion could be removed specifically to avoid having to lift the safe over the bolts when they are removed.

As for the effectiveness of the safe, you are correct. In no way do I consider a safe to be my only security control. Any control can be broken or bypassed given enough time and resources. The safe is the last control in a layered defense. Environmental design, lighting, visible cameras, hidden cameras, alarm systems, average police response time, etc - they all play into a good security design.

I'm anchoring it down for 3 reasons:
(1) with the door open, it tips forward slightly when it is not heavily loaded.
(2) I don't want it to fall on a curious kid, and
(3) it adds time and complexity for an attacker to get inside, which allows time for other detective and response controls to hopefully work.

[Wingshooter]

I have seen inserts (lead and stainless steel) that will drop into a drilled hole in the concrete (similar to drywall inserts for screws). Then you would run a bolt down through the safe and into the inset. The ones I have seen expand when the bolt goes in. I think I would also consider epoxing the inserts in the concrete to help hold them in place so you can remove and reinstall the bolts. 

[Jeb48]

Besides anchoring to the floor you might want to add cleats/trim pieces around the edges where the safe is against a wall. This will make it harder to get a pry bar behind the safe. Mine is in a corner so I cleated the top (2 edges), front on one side and back on the other side. I used some uncommon style screw types just to add a little more difficulty than a plain phillips would be.

My son added his safe to his security system, it sends him an eMail every time it is opened.

[ehull20000]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-1-2-in-x-4-1-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Hex-Nut-Head-Solid-Concrete-Wedge-Anchors-25-Pack-11272/100124689

 

I've seen these used.  I think you could just drill the hole deeper than needed.  When you need to remove the safe just remove the hardware and pound the anchor down with a punch.    Should work fine.  

[Wingshooter]

10 hours ago, ehull20000 said:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-1-2-in-x-4-1-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Hex-Nut-Head-Solid-Concrete-Wedge-Anchors-25-Pack-11272/100124689

 

I've seen these used.  I think you could just drill the hole deeper than needed.  When you need to remove the safe just remove the hardware and pound the anchor down with a punch.    Should work fine.  

These are a good option.

You could also cut a 2x4 and drill holes to cover the anchors when the safe is removed so no one steps on them. That way when you are replacing carpet, etc. you would just have 2 2x4's bolted to the floor instead of the safe.

[quietguy]

Personally, I prefer these  - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-1-2-in-x-2-in-Drop-In-Anchor-50-per-Pack-DIA50/205299212

If properly installed, they sit slightly below the floor so there is nothing to trip over  or step on.  I usually use a little masonry epoxy when I install them, but it isn't necessary.   This gives you a little more flexibility.  If you wanted to add risers, like mentioned above, you just use a longer bolt.  

[ehull20000]

 

1 hour ago, quietguy said:

Personally, I prefer these  - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-1-2-in-x-2-in-Drop-In-Anchor-50-per-Pack-DIA50/205299212

If properly installed, they sit slightly below the floor so there is nothing to trip over  or step on.  I usually use a little masonry epoxy when I install them, but it isn't necessary.   This gives you a little more flexibility.  If you wanted to add risers, like mentioned above, you just use a longer bolt.  

 

 

^^ those look perfect.  I'll try those on my next safe.  

[Wingshooter]

5 hours ago, quietguy said:

Personally, I prefer these  - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-1-2-in-x-2-in-Drop-In-Anchor-50-per-Pack-DIA50/205299212

If properly installed, they sit slightly below the floor so there is nothing to trip over  or step on.  I usually use a little masonry epoxy when I install them, but it isn't necessary.   This gives you a little more flexibility.  If you wanted to add risers, like mentioned above, you just use a longer bolt.  

Those are the inserts I've seen. That's what I would use. 

[batninja24601]

On 7/22/2016 at 10:16 PM, Jeb48 said:

Besides anchoring to the floor you might want to add cleats/trim pieces around the edges where the safe is against a wall. This will make it harder to get a pry bar behind the safe. Mine is in a corner so I cleated the top (2 edges), front on one side and back on the other side. I used some uncommon style screw types just to add a little more difficulty than a plain phillips would be.

My son added his safe to his security system, it sends him an eMail every time it is opened.

Good call on the cleats. Added bonus: our cats will not be able to clean the top of the safe off by pushing my car keys and wallet behind it again. With a wall next to one side and heavy furniture to the left, I was glad I had not bolted it down yet. 

I am planning on connecting it into a security security system. Not sure exactly what I'll do there yet; I'm thinking about doing a little Raspberry PI computer connected to my neighbors WiFi [with permission] and putting a couple cameras in and outside the safe that trigger when it is opened. Have the photos stored locally on the Raspberry PI and sent offsite as well with the texts when it is opened.

[batninja24601]

On 7/23/2016 at 9:05 AM, Wingshooter said:

These are a good option.

You could also cut a 2x4 and drill holes to cover the anchors when the safe is removed so no one steps on them. That way when you are replacing carpet, etc. you would just have 2 2x4's bolted to the floor instead of the safe.

Good safety call. However, I'm not so much worried about the bolts being a safety hazard when the safe is removed. I'm more concerned with the difficulty of moving the safe and reinstalling it with the bolts left in the floor.

[batninja24601]

On 7/23/2016 at 11:26 AM, quietguy said:

Personally, I prefer these  - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-1-2-in-x-2-in-Drop-In-Anchor-50-per-Pack-DIA50/205299212

If properly installed, they sit slightly below the floor so there is nothing to trip over  or step on.  I usually use a little masonry epoxy when I install them, but it isn't necessary.   This gives you a little more flexibility.  If you wanted to add risers, like mentioned above, you just use a longer bolt.  

This looks perfect. In your experience, can you remove the bolt and reattach it? 

[MemHeli]

On July 25, 2016 at 10:37 AM, batninja24601 said:

I'm thinking about doing a little Raspberry PI computer connected

Ohh I can see we're going to get along just fine!  I've been wondering how to get started with mi Pi.  I bought one when they came out but haven't done anything with it yet.  Complete newbie in programming here...  

[batninja24601]

2 minutes ago, MemHeli said:

Ohh I can see we're going to get along just fine!  I've been wondering how to get started with mi Pi.  I bought one when they came out but haven't done anything with it yet.  Complete newbie in programming here...  

 I've been in IT for a couple decades, but mostly on the infrastructure and security side. Not a great programmer, but with enough brute force I can script what I need. The Pi is nothing but a small Linux server. There is extensive support for Python on the Pi. If you're wanting to pick up a scripting/programming language, Python  is a good place to start.