Ed Brown Sear jig needed

[Sunfish]

Anybody have one for a 1911 that I could use ? I would give you a New box of 45 ammo or ? .  I have a Ruger SR CMD that I want to put a hard sear in and need a jig to fit it to my hammer. I realize they are only $50 bucks or so but I need my cash for parts. There's no hurry on this because I have not bought the sear yet and only have time to mess with it on the weekend. Thanks for reading through this. Sunfish 

[Sunfish]

Took my Ruger back apart and very lightly stoned the sear and Hammer hooks with some good natural light and 2x magnification. The creep is gone and it breaks clean. I noticed my disconnector was rough as a cobb and the trigger bow as well. I smoothed them with a little compound and put it all back together and wow what a difference. My mag release spring was super hard so I cut one coil off the spring and it's better but still pretty stiff. Need to shoot it and see if the new 24lb recoil spring helps the occasional not fully going into battery thing. Sunfish 

[xtriggerman]

A too tight extractor can cause a non lock up issue. With the slide off, push a casing up onto the in battery position on the bolt face. You should have just a very slight resistance from the extractor.  If its tight, they can be bent back slightly in some cases or you can relieve the claw slightly where the rim touches it with a needle file. Also its not uncommon for the barrel shroud over the chamber to rub hard on one side or the other of the slide on lock up. If that's the case, make sure the barrel link pin is flush in the barrel. take the recoil spring out and chamber a round by hand (take FP out if you like to be safe) work the slide with the round in it back and forth during the in battery movement. If its dragging on the shroud, you will feel it and normally see a hard rub if fired enough. Here again as you have been doing, stone it little by little until you have a smooth "by hand" lock up. Some times the barrel lugs are short with the link pin hole. Here again, with the recoil spring out, point the gun straight down and move cycle the slide by hand slowly. if you get a hard rub with the slide moving forward or a complete stoping of the slide, you would have too much barrel / slide out of battery "slop" creating lock up resistance. To see the slop, pull the slide back so there is about an 8th of an inch gap or so between the barrel chamber shroud and bolt face. and then push in and pull out on the tip of the barrel. There should be only a little in and out movement there. If the barrel moves back and forth a lot, only a new barrel or new slide can fix that. That "slop" condition is alluding to such a poor barrel/slide fit that the barrel wants the cam up into battery before the slide is in position over the barrel lugs. A well fit 1911 should work flawlessly with an 18 lb spring. But your right, a 24 lb spring may just be the fix.....but if not, you now have plan B!

[Sunfish]

 XTM My extractor seems to have been the culprit. I rubbed some of it off and it has much less resistance now. I'm not sure how hard it is on the Rockwell scale but it's up there. Thanks for the good tip. Have you ever worked on a Browning Hi Power ? That's going to be my next victim. Sunfish  

[xtriggerman]

Good to hear your getting the Ruger squared away. A little TLC like you have been doings adds up to reliability you can rely on. As for the HP, mostly what Iv done on those is take the mag safety out and more often than not, I tighten the safeties up with a fast dot of mig weld and recut. I hate trigger creep with the safety on and most of the time you will find it on the Browning or Feg guns. Once the mag safety is gone, the triggers can be real nice by tweaking the trig rebound spring a tad. I'm on the GS look out for a FM Detective. Basically a short barrel HP from Argentina. Saw one once for $379 but didn't have the cash at the time.