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Posted

Not a fan of Anderson. I have two lowers out of spec that I'm trying to correct.


Strange, I've lost count of how many rifles I've built using Anderson parts and zero issues. They should remedy it for you if they're out of spec though.
  • Like 3
Posted

Not a fan of Anderson. I have two lowers out of spec that I'm trying to correct.


Very curious about this. I've made a few great rifles out of them, and have a few more waiting on later builds. All are 100% perfect so far, even the half-dozen "blems" I bought that are perfect.

What is out of spec? Pin holes? Magwell issue? I'm interested to hear what's wrong, and what they do about it. :-)
  • Like 4
Posted (edited)
One has the take down and pivot pin holes way undersized. I use CMMG kits on all my builds. You can put the pins up to the holes and see how undersized they are. Conversely, the trigger pin holes or over sized. Again, I use CMMG kits and those pins about freely drop through. I suspect this one, which was bought from an online retailer, is probably an earlier lower from when tolerance issues with them ran rampant. The other has a "wobbly" mag well. Mags won't drop freely but otherwise it's okay. I've built 20+ rifles, both for myself and for friends and family, and usually its Anderson I see more of an issue with. Now, I'm not sure if they were from the earlier days or current. One of those things that if I get burned by, I tend to remember.

Edit: yes, I also realize the issue with stacked tolerances. I've just never had issues with other sets. Edited by Mindless-Focus
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
Had 1 of 3 Anderson lowers that had enlarged trigger pin, only on left side. Fired 3 rounds, gun locked up, dropped the pin into the receiver. It now has a set of anti-walk pins. Other 2 were perfect. Still, what's $40-70 difference? Given the nature of its purpose, I choose not to cheap out on the lower. I'll stick with aero precision or PSA, spikes, mega, etc... Edited by Jct1911
Posted

I have had an issue with ONE Anderson, the bolt catch wasnt machine properly, I had to drill out further for the spring... The rifle would shoot and cycle, but you couldnt force the bolt to stay open... The catch would not engage the bolt..

Posted (edited)
Only time I've seen an Anderson build go bad was when a friend at work built an AR with Anderson receivers that wouldn't cycle by hand. Anderson replaced the upper, but it still didn't work. Problem turned out to be the $10 charging handle he got from eBay. Oops! Edited by BigK
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I ordered a complete upper from Hardened arms last week for 198.00 shipped. I was going to get a PSA upper but this came railed so I went with it. Purchased the NIB BCG from Aim last week also 99.00 and free shipping. I'm going to finish out that complete Omega lower I got for 109.00 a few months back. I'm trying to build cheap this one cheap. After sights and charging handle I should be done for around 475.00. with the BGC on the lower.  :up: I just hope the polymer lower holds up. If not PSA here I come :) 

Edited by XxthejuicexX
Posted

I can only speak about lowers with the closed trigger guard, since those are the only lowers I've used from Anderson. I have 4 builds with Anderson upper/lower combos. A 5th one is still sitting in a box. The only issue I've had is with one lower that seemed to have slight tolerance differences in the magwell that the others didn't have. When I say slight, it just means Gen 2 PMAGs won't drop freely, nor will Barrett 6.8 mags(very snug fit). Gen 3 PMAGS and just about everything else I've tried works fine.

 

For the price, if that's the biggest complaint that I can find out of 5 receiver combos, then Anderson has more than fulfilled their commitment to giving me quality receivers at a really good price.

 

Honestly, I've tried to find a reason to not like them. Still can't find a reason.

Posted

Strange, I've lost count of how many rifles I've built using Anderson parts and zero issues. They should remedy it for you if they're out of spec though.

 

Built two myself. They went together well with PSA parts kits and PSA buffer tubes. The grip screw hole isn't threaded all the way through. Not the first time I have seen that. Already had the tap, and fixed them in a few minutes. 

 

First complaint I have heard.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
Would that barrel be a drop-in replacement for a Ruger?

I see Ruger says the barrel and gas block is factory-fitted parts. Edited by kcruisin
Posted
I don't think so, as Ruger always has to go and complicate things unnecessarily. Their gas block and pin method is definitely different.

Do you have an AR556 with the front sight post?

Just get a different gas block. ;-)

Most folks generally go the route pf a flat top railed tigke anyways. Gitchoo a low profile gas block and slim rails.
Posted
Everything got delivered to guns and leather in Hendersonville yesterday and I will be picking them up tonight will post back then


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  • Like 1
Posted

Well Thursday night after the 40 dollar transfer fee and 10 dollar back ground check I am the proud owner of my first stripped upper, lower, barrel and 9 free magazines! Will post some pics later

  • Like 1
Posted
43 minutes ago, luke9511 said:

Well Thursday night after the 40 dollar transfer fee and 10 dollar back ground check I am the proud owner of my first stripped upper, lower, barrel and 9 free magazines! Will post some pics later

Congratulations! Have fun :up:

Posted

I don't want to spend a lot on my first ar but I don't know if I should go for a traditional front sight and gas tube or something else any advice?

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Posted
1 minute ago, luke9511 said:

I don't want to spend a lot on my first ar but I don't know if I should go for a traditional front sight and gas tube or something else any advice?

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Not a fan of the A2 front sight, even though I used one my entire military career.  I like the sleek look of a flattop, and now that my eyesight is not what it used to be I put optics on mine anyway, most don't have iron sight at all.  I think with the choice of iron and optic sights available now a days a flattop is the best choice, then you are not limited on what you can mount on it.  So I suggest a low profile gas block under the handguard. 

Posted

A low profile gas block also allows you to have a lot longer handguard than what your gas system "allows". I only have A2 blocks on my two "legacy milspec' guns,

  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, luke9511 said:

like i said i dont want to spend alot on this but any handguard/low profile gas block y'all recommend that wont break the bank?

They can be as low as this: Alloy from Midsouth $10.40 Steel from Midsouth $21.89 (I's go steel) you may need to dimple your barrel if not already done.

Or as much as: Clamp on steel from Daniel Defense $61.00 Clamp ons are good if you have enough room under the handguard and no dimples on the barrel.

All these are for .750 diameter barrels (at the gas block) so be sure to measure yours (or check specs) before buying one.  Also there are adjustable ones but no links to those since more than likely you won't need one at this time.

 

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