How to tell .40 cal S&W brass cases from steel cases

[goodet]

I wanted to get some feedback on how you tell if .40 cal S&W shells are made of brass or steel.  I traded for some .40 cal shells but when I got to sort them I noticed the following;

 

1) They were a dark grey color, not yellow like brass shells would be.

2) They had a coating on the shell case

3) When I take a file to the neck and to the body of the cases, the metal that is showing through is a bright silver color

4) They do not have a mirror finish like a nickel plated brass shell would have.  They are darker in color.

5) Headstamps include Win, R P, and Winchester.

6) Insides of the cases are dark as well.

 

Having trouble posting a picture at the moment. 

 

[Sidecarist]

Simple way is a magnet. Tarnished bass can be dark, but will never be magnetic. Steel is always magnetic.

[Omega]

There is also aluminum cases, but they are much lighter in weight as their brass or steel counterparts.  And yes, magnets are your friend.

[MacGyver]

Brass looks like brass.

Toss the rest of it.

[DaveTN]

I just look at them; they don’t look the same. The brass would have to be in pretty bad shape to not be able to tell the difference.

Steel is hard on extractors and chambers. I’m not a reloader, but I’m a Toolmaker; I would guess it could scratch your dies and shorten the life of your leloading equiptment.

[Jonnin]

I just look at them; they don’t look the same. The brass would have to be in pretty bad shape to not be able to tell the difference.

Steel is hard on extractors and chambers. I’m not a reloader, but I’m a Toolmaker; I would guess it could scratch your dies and shorten the life of your leloading equiptment.

 

The steel in the cases is going to be softer than your dies so it shouldn't scratch them but it probably does shorten the life via regular wear and tear.   Its often berdain primed (look for 2 small holes instead of 1 big hole at the primer) so you can't use that without special equipment and primers.   Also it does not reshape well -- its going to split after at most 1 reload in most calibers.  Agreed that its hard on the guns as well unless you are shooting an AK or Makarov or something else built for steel cases. 

 

Its just not worth it.   Its always magnetic, though :)   A good hard drive magnet can pull them out from several inches away.

 

Ive seen people use water pressure to deprime it and go to great lengths to reload it.   Its good info because someday we might be there.  Today isn't that day.

Edited April 26, 2016 by Jonnin

[DaveTN]

The steel in the cases is going to be softer than your dies so it shouldn't scratch them

I’m going to let the die maintenance guys know that. ;)

[Omega]

I’m going to let the die maintenance guys know that. ;)

What kind of maintenance?  Since I use Lee dies if I ever scratch one making it unusable I'll just buy another set.  Having said that, I have heard people lapping their dies, but I never had to, and some of mine are upwards of 30 years old, at least in my possession.  Back when I first started, I would use any darn case I came across as long as it still had life in it, steel, nickel, aluminum, brass I didn't care; and I never noticed any issues on my carbide 9mm or .40 dies.  Now my rifle, I always used brass, only because when I started all I reloaded was my hunting rounds and it was my own once or more fired brass.  Today, I have enough brass that I can be choosy, and I avoid all but brass.

[Trekbike]

What kind of maintenance?

I believe he was referring to craftsmen who maintain commercial die tooling, not reloading dies, who would be amused by the statement the steel cases wouldn't scratch the die steel.

Edited April 29, 2016 by Trekbike