New Archer, First Outing

[Guest]

Hello,

First time shooting a bow today. Got sighted in at 20 yards and will get proficient there before moving out to the 30 and 40 yard posts.

I was able to get some groups of 6 arrows inside about a 3" circle, but wasn't doing it consistently on every group. So lots more practice before I increase range. What's typically considered good with a standard compound bow and arrows.... 1" groups at 20 yards?

Also, there was a small level inside the sight ring on my bow and it fell out. Should I care? I'm not sure why I'd want to become dependent on a level to endure my bow is true.

Thanks!

[Handsome Rob]

You really do want that level. The bow HAS to be vertical for correct sight alignment.

For your first time, 3" groups at 20yds is fantastic! I'm happy to hunt if I can put 6 out of 6 into a 3" ring, every time at every distance. My maximum range is wherever I can accomplish that. One my groups start to open up, I limit myself to less than that.

If I'm really shooting well I can usually put 3 shots into 1½" at 20yds. I don't shoot more than 3 though, it gets expensive replacing nocks & smashed arrows.

[Guest]

You really do want that level. The bow HAS to be vertical for correct sight alignment.

For your first time, 3" groups at 20yds is fantastic! I'm happy to hunt if I can put 6 out of 6 into a 3" ring, every time at every distance. My maximum range is wherever I can accomplish that. One my groups start to open up, I limit myself to less than that.

If I'm really shooting well I can usually put 3 shots into 1½" at 20yds. I don't shoot more than 3 though, it gets expensive replacing nocks & smashed arrows.

Thanks! Like I mentioned I definitely wasn't doing a 3" group every time. I'd get a good one and then a wider one. I'll keep practicing though.

Do you actively look at the level while shooting every time or just use it to build good form which would include being familiar with having the now level?

[Handsome Rob]

I give it a split second glance, just to be sure, but 99% of the time it's purely in my peripheral vision.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Handsome Rob]

It helps, hugely, to have a peep large enough to let you see the entire sight ring too. Don't fall into the tiny peep trap. Big is good.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Guest]

Thanks. Two additional newbie questions:

My arrow fletchings are becoming pretty wavy. Have shot maybe 200 shots total with the six arrows. Is the normal? I'm wondering if it's due to some hitting each other when I land a couple arrows literally right next to each other (not very often, mostly just luck!)

Also the arrow rest seems to be pretty loose, maybe 1/8" too wide to gently touch the arrow on each side. I actually had a few arrows fall off the bottom set of brushes as I raised the bow to draw. I wouldn't think this is normal?

Thank you!

[Guest]

Thanks. Two additional newbie questions:

My arrow fletchings are becoming pretty wavy. Have shot maybe 200 shots total with the six arrows. Is the normal? I'm wondering if it's due to some hitting each other when I land a couple arrows literally right next to each other (not very often, mostly just luck!)

Also the arrow rest seems to be pretty loose, maybe 1/8" too wide to gently touch the arrow on each side. I actually had a few arrows fall off the bottom set of brushes as I raised the bow to draw. I wouldn't think this is normal?

Thank you!

[CJDore]

You should be able to reform your fletchings with a little TLC. Without seeing a pic, I cannot tell you much about your arrow rest.

 

FYI.....Something I discovered last year with guidance from Rob, was the Tennessee Classic. It is a traditional bow annual event in Chapmansboro, TN.......There you can make your own bow with guidance of some of best bow builders in US to guide you. You can also use your new bow to compete on course with 40 3D game targets. Camping is free and the fun is off the charts.

 

http://www.twinoaksbowhunters.org/#!events/c2wwm

[Handsome Rob]

I know a million folk & their Grandmothers use a brush type rest of some shape or color, but that'd be the first thing I'd file in the big round cabinet.
A good quality, limb driven, drop away rest with give you much, much better accuracy, superb reliability & far more adjustability.
As far as the wavy fletching that could be a number of things: contact with your rest would be the first thing to check. It could simply be down to the manufacturer. Cheap vanes have a habit of stretching badly, giving them a wiggly edge. That'll mess up your flight significantly when you come to try broadheads.

[Guest]

Here's what my fletchings looks like after probably 30 shots on each arrow. Some are worse than others. I'm wondering if this is due to them sliding on each other when I hit two close to the same point. These are 4" vanes.



Although I couldn't get the camera to focus on the arrow rest, it's sort of visible. Seems like a lot of slop between the rest vanes and the arrow shaft?



Thanks for ant input!

[Guest]

To you guys who've been doing this a while, is that fletching condition normal? I'm totally new to this but I can't imagine that much sloppiness that quickly is normal? Also doesn't the arrow rest seem a but sloppy? Thanks! Edited March 13, 2016 by Guest

[quietguy]

Your rest looks fine, but it looks like you are seeing a pretty high level of contact with the brushes.  Have you tried any arrows with the the shorter vanes?  

 

Counter to robtattoo, I really like my brush rest, and get accuracy equal to or greater than my old plunger rests.  I have been using Carbon Express arrows for the last few years with 2" vanes.  I can see where you could have issues with longer vanes in a brush rest. 

[Guest]

Your rest looks fine, but it looks like you are seeing a pretty high level of contact with the brushes. Have you tried any arrows with the the shorter vanes?

Counter to robtattoo, I really like my brush rest, and get accuracy equal to or greater than my old plunger rests. I have been using Carbon Express arrows for the last few years with 2" vanes. I can see where you could have issues with longer vanes in a brush rest.

Please forgive my ignorance, but why would shorter vanes great lost contact with the brushes in the arrow rest?

[Handsome Rob]

Simply because there is less vane to contact.

In my opinion, those look like cheap vanes. The type usually found on no-name, pre-fletched arrows. If I were you, I toddle along to your nearest store & have them re-fletched with some Bohning, Blazer or Easton vanes. Or feathers. Feathers are just as good as, if not better than, vanes in every way (as long as they're dry)

Once vanes get to the condition yours are in it's time to bin them. It's funny, but a little difference in vane quality makes a massive difference in the way they perform & how long they last. You won't see that amount of damage just by stacking arrows in your target. I've been shooting feathers for years & recently switched to 2" Blazers. Generally I can put 3 arrows touching & I've probably hit at least 300 shots out of each arrow, minimum. My vanes look like New.

[Guest]

Thanks, I will take them to be re-fletched. They were made to order, "hand-fleteched" by Hunters Friend in Kentucky. They tout how their fletching is a lot better than big-box stores. Edited March 14, 2016 by Guest

[quietguy]

Thanks, I will take them to be re-fletched. They were made to order, "hand-fleteched" by Hunters Friend in Kentucky. They tout how their fletching is a lot better than big-box stores.

If you don't want to take it on yourself, then find a good local shop.  Results will vary. 

 

Robtattoo pretty much nailed what I was trying to convey.  Your arrow starts rotating before it clears the rest.  A 2" vane will clear with less contact than a 4" vane.  

 

Feather vanes are great, except when it rains.  I use them on my recurve and longbows, but I stick with the polymer on my compound bow.