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My 9mm Loads


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Posted (edited)

Hello, new reloader here.  Would appreciate any thoughts or guidance on the 9mm loads I'm testing before loading up a bunch more for general target practice, etc.

 

I'm using Precision Delta 124 grain JHP bullets with Unique powder and CCI small pistol primers.   Tests below are through a 4.5" Springfield XDs.

 

Based on what I'm seeing here, a couple of questions:

1) Any thoughts why I'd be getting 1,150 fps with 4.6 grains of unique when the Hornady book estimates 1,100 fps with 5.0 grains?

2) The loads at 4.6 grains seem more consistent than those at 4.4 or 4.9-5.0.  Just by chance I suppose?

 

I checked my digital scale with its 50.0 gram check weight and it was spot on - though the scale itself only displays to the nearest grain.  

 

These were with C.O.L. of 1.050" (+.001", -.003").    FWIW, the 4.1 grains was too weak to even lock the slide back on the last round.  

 

Note - the Remington load used as another point of comparison in the chart is 115 grains vs. 124.  

 

hornady%20book.jpg

 

 

 

 

chart.jpg

 

 

4.1 grains

 

4-1.jpg

 

 

 

 

4.4 Grains

 

 

4-4.jpg

 

 

 

4.6 Grains

 

4-6.jpg

 

 

 

4.9 Grains

 

4-9.jpg

Edited by Guest
Posted
The books set their standards via either an average or median value of various weapons and barrel lengths. Its a guideline not a dogma - so it WILL ALWAYS slightly vary.

My problem with unique is that its fairly slow burning and meters like corn flakes mixed with frozen milk shavings.

I try to seat at least to 1.120 if possible and adjust my powder. Like to see your crimp too, all that affects pressure.

I reccomend switching to Titegroup, HS6, Win 231/HP38 first off but thats personal taste and availability.

I wouldnt seat those primers as deep either - may short stroke em. They look a little deep.

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Posted
There are NO signs of high pressure readable in strait wall pistol cartridges, only failure. I know you're new to reloading, but don't try reading too much into pistol brass, clean, size, check for splits, reload and shoot. Stay with published data. Case swell like in Glocks is directly related to the gun, not the load.
  • Like 1
Posted
I have seen pressure signs in pistol reloads but only when I was young and stupid with 357mag. Now tat I stick close to published data never, I do split brass from use though.

The look of those primers may be consistent with the breech face on television XD, when Glock came out they ad that rectangular firing pin impression that looked different.

Compare to some brass from factory loads. This will give you a vase line for what the primer should look like.

If you're loading for target shooting go for reliability and constancy first. If you find a mid range load that works use it and enjoy.
Posted

The 9mm Luger cartridge is a military cartridge. That usually means that it is made for hi pressure. If you're not flattening the primer a little you're asking for function problems. Save the Unique for magnum loads and get something that is a little faster. Personal opinion, unique is awful dirty. Lots of graphite in the stuff for a filler. and it likes to be in an almost full case to burn well.

Posted

book data is a good starting point. if you don't have one i would get a chronograph to work up your loads.  i use aa#5 and titegroup for 9mm.  

Posted

Unique works just fine in the 9mm and the case almost fills completely.  I have used it and WSF a lot.  Never thought much about being dirty.  Plus if there is a lot of graphite.....so what.....continues to lube the pistol.  In my experience I have not had any powder induced problems.

Posted

As others have said, the load data is a good average, based on results form their test platform.  Longer barrels, variations in seating depth, crimp (or no crimp), chamber shapes and distance to the lands in your particular gun will all cause variances from the published data.  Chrono your results, record the data, work loads up slowly and stay within the published parameters and you should be fine.

Posted
WSF works great for me on 9mm and .40. Seems to be more consistent for me than Titegroup too [emoji848]


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Posted
Thanks everyone for the input.

I see primer cratering on the Federal factory rounds as well. May be the XD. It's probably only got 2k to 3k rounds through it though. I'll try another 9mm of a different brand.

I don't see as much cratering on the Hornady HP rounds, though there's a lot more primer flattening.

All of this said, the hand loads seemed go eject fine and operate well.

There was also a mention of seating the primers less deep. Pardon my ignorance but how would I achieve that?
Posted

The 9mm Luger cartridge is a military cartridge. That usually means that it is made for hi pressure. If you're not flattening the primer a little you're asking for function problems. Save the Unique for magnum loads and get something that is a little faster. Personal opinion, unique is awful dirty. Lots of graphite in the stuff for a filler. and it likes to be in an almost full case to burn well.


I feel the same way, I have had function and ejection problems with Unique loads in 9mm and did just that, went to a faster powder. No more problems and use it mostly for .357 and .44 magnum loads.
Posted

All of this said, the hand loads seemed go eject fine and operate well.
There was also a mention of seating the primers less deep. Pardon my ignorance but how would I achieve that?[/quote]

I wouldnt try. Primers are intended to be seated against the bottom of the pocket. This ensures that the primer anvil doesn't move from firing pin impact. You want all of the firing pin energy to go into the primer not into seating it deeper.

The photos can be deceiving because of the angle. I simply would worry about it unless you start seeing failures to fire. Even then I'd look at replacing the brass...

Regardless the primer should ALWAYS be seated below the case head. To prevent slam fires.
Posted
[quote name="Sidecarist" post="1359638" timestamp="1455968432"]

All of this said, the hand loads seemed go eject fine and operate well.
There was also a mention of seating the primers less deep. Pardon my ignorance but how would I achieve that?[/quote]

I wouldnt try. Primers are intended to be seated against the bottom of the pocket. This ensures that the primer anvil doesn't move from firing pin impact. You want all of the firing pin energy to go into the primer not into seating it deeper.

The photos can be deceiving because of the angle. I simply would worry about it unless you start seeing failures to fire. Even then I'd look at replacing the brass...

Regardless the primer should ALWAYS be seated below the case head. To prevent slam fires.[/quote]

Thanks that makes a ton of sense!
Posted (edited)
Today I shot 200 more of these reloads at 4.6 grains, plus two additional commercial factory loads (albeit 115 gn.). Shot all of these through the XDm and a 9mm keltec. Similar cratering on most of the rounds in both pistols. I took some other measurements which I'll try to post tomorrow but I'm a bit perplexed by all the cratering when it's also several varieties of factory ammo doing it in 2 stock pistols.

Thoughts? Edited by Guest
Posted
Some guns will leave strange marks on the primer. Glocks can leave a rectangular impression. It's caused by the design of the firing pin and it's hole in the breach face not all guns do this.. I am not familiar enough with yours to say, but the fact tat factory ammo is similarly marked makes me think that this is so.

The firing pin impression also shows a drag mark where the gun is starting to unlock before the firing pin is fully retracted. This is also common particularly on smaller guns.

See if you an use the ammo in another gun and compare.

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