AR Lowers

[ma6907]

I have never built an AR but I am thinking of doing it.  I have 4 ARs that I have purchased "stock", 3 of them Sabres and 1 Sig.  When I look closely, I am wondering--is there really any difference in Lowers?  Can you really buy a "bad" stripped lower?  If so, what makes one "bad"?  Please be patient if this is a dumb question, i really do not know the answer?

[Smith]

Most of them come from the same forging companies as there is only a few of them. That being said the final machining can make a difference. However, as long as it is from a reputable company, you really can't get a bad lower. The "better" lowers are ones that have better finishes or extra features. Most of the basic, cheaper lowers will be mil-spec, which is the most basic requirements for manufacture.

 

A bad lower will have trigger pin holes or takedown pin holes that are mis-sized or not entirely lined up. There can also be some mag well dimension issues with bad lowers.

[ma6907]

Most of them come from the same forging companies as there is only a few of them. That being said the final machining can make a difference. However, as long as it is from a reputable company, you really can't get a bad lower. The "better" lowers are ones that have better finishes or extra features. Most of the basic, cheaper lowers will be mil-spec, which is the most basic requirements for manufacture.

 

A bad lower will have trigger pin holes or takedown pin holes that are mis-sized or not entirely lined up. There can also be some mag well dimension issues with bad lowers.

Thanks.  That is kind of what I thought but i was afraid I was missing something?  They range from $25 to $250.  Only difference I can see is the name stamped on some of them.  And the finish, of course.  

[justincase]

don't forget about what materials they are made of ...also weight if that is a concern also as some companies are making lowers ultralight with matching upper...

[Smith]

Thanks.  That is kind of what I thought but i was afraid I was missing something?  They range from $25 to $250.  Only difference I can see is the name stamped on some of them.  And the finish, of course.  

Generally, if the price goes much over $100 it is due to the name/logo stamped on the side. If you get above the $140 mark, it usually indicates you are getting into a billet machined lower. 

[tgtmasterchuck]

Can anyone recommend a brand you have had good luck with? Buying a matching upper and lower sounds like a good idea. Is it necessary?


tgtmaster

[Murgatroy]

I have used a lot is PSA lowers, they are good to go. I have also used Anderson lowers. They are also good to go.

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

[musicman]

Matching upper and lower are only important if you are trying to make sure they look the same, imho. Different mfgrs have different shades of gray/luster to their finishes. I don't give a crap, and none of my builds have matching uppers and lowers. All of them work and fit perfectly. I had/have Anderson, PSA, Stag, Doublestar, PTAC by PSA, and CMT parts. I'm happy with all of them.

The only thing that's a must for me now is enclosed trigger guards. I hate installing that stupid thing. That, and I like the look of the bigger integral guard.

[tmauto769]

I have lowers as cheap as andersons all the way up to a billet seekins. they all work and work well no problems with any of them. But with that being said the seekins has a lot tighter tolerances. For example when I pulled my timney trigger out of a spikes lower and dropped it in the seekins, at first I didn't think it was going to fit, it slid in without forcing it but it has to drop straight in. In the spikes you could just throw it in there. As far as comparing an anderson to a spikes, no difference what so ever other than the logos and serial #. I have the spikes upper on the seekins right now and it is a different shade as someone said above. On a low to mid range gun it wouldn't bother me so much, but this one I have a lot invested in it so I am going to have to fork out some more $ for the seekins upper. I think you are better off spending more of your money on good barrel vs. more money on a more expensive lower. Like a seekins match, ultra match, or Rainer. I had a 6.8spc Daniel Defense barrel that was a really good shooter as well.

Edited January 21, 2016 by tmauto769

[gregintenn]

Anderson and PSA lowers do everything a lower is expected to do.

 

For an upscale billet lower, Cross Machine and Tool makes some nice ones right here in Tennessee.

 

I would suggest foregoing a polymer receiver in favor of aluminum, but that's just my opinion.

Edited January 22, 2016 by gregintenn

[Rightwinger]

Greg beat me to it. 

 

We had a group buy here a while back and the CMT uppers and lowers are great values, plus the Tennessee manufacture!

[BigK]

I was advised by someone I respect a GREAT deal on here when I was first starting to build ARs that a lower receiver is the absolute worst place on an AR build to waste any money on upgrades. I tend to agree and have lived that advice ever since.

[rugerla1]

I was advised by someone I respect a GREAT deal on here when I was first starting to build ARs that a lower receiver is the absolute worst place on an AR build to waste any money on upgrades. I tend to agree and have lived that advice ever since.

I agree except for the Seekins Precision bolt catch, I love these things!

[rugerla1]

To the OP may be interestedin this? Good price for a billet lower and clean sided to boot.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1RAK15

[ma6907]

Thanks everyone.  I was just afraid I could be missing something?  Like I said, i have only ever bought ARs already complete.  I am kind of partial to my Sabres, they fire great.  Thought I would build one just for fun.  I usually am under the feeling that you get what you pay for, but occasionally a good deal can be had.  When comparing the "function" of a lower, I just couldn't figure out the price discrepancy.  Great advice on the trigger guard, @musicman.  Ill probably end up blowing my play money on an already assembled one before I build one, anyway.  I only have 4 now, though.  How could a man be expected to get by with only 4 and never having built one?

[ma6907]

To the OP may be interestedin this? Good price for a billet lower and clean sided to boot.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1RAK15

I love the full auto marking on the side.  That would be a great conversation starter at the range, even if it did not actually mean anything?

[gjohnsoniv]

If you want unique side markings take a look at Spike's Tactical.

[JohnC]

Mega Arms. Love the machining quality and the coatings they use.

[rugerla1]

Mega Arms. Love the machining quality and the coatings they use.

I've yet to build a Mega, but it's on my to-do list. They look really nice!

[Jct1911]

Mega Arms. Love the machining quality and the coatings they use.

Honestly my favorite are Mega. The best quality standard forged lowers available. Built my SBR's from them. Love that the uppers are engraved with Mega also. Also like AeroPrecision.

[justincase]

Battle arms development for me on the next build....they make some very light upper and lowers with nice cuts done for the weight reduction

[KKing]

I have 7 or 8 Andersons. IMO anything more expensive and all you're getting is a certain name or look. Not that there's anything wrong with that, I have a few billet lowers, but the more I build the more I see them as a utility item and use them as such.

[seax]

Talked to Royal Arms at the SHOT show and was informed they were moving to TN.

[rugerla1]

Talked to Royal Arms at the SHOT show and was informed they were moving to TN.

That's good to hear! Now I really want to buy one.

[Ted S.]

I use whatever's cheapest from a reputable company unless I'm making a special build. Anderson and PSA are go to companies for me. If you ever want a billet, New Frontier Armory makes nice ones at a cost of a moderately priced forged lower (around $120). They're a little heavier, but the finish is nicer, and the screw in bolt release is KISS.