Is reloading not worth it on the common pistol cartridges?

[BBdown]

Any time I spend reloading is time I'm not wasting on YouTube, Amazon, or sitting on the couch watching TV. I don't ever ask how much that time is worth to me.

I agree 100%.  But some of us don't have time to waste on the interwebs or sitting on the couch watching TV.  

[dawgdoc]

I'd been considering reloading for the last two years, and I had been saving brass ever since the Great Ammo Scare.  I finally got a Lee Breech Lock Hand Press.  I figured it would be a much smaller investment in case I didn't like it.  So I imagine it is more labor intensive and slower than other presses, but I have made a few hundred 9mm so far.  So far, it is less than $300 in equipment and supplies (bullets and primers), but I haven't really calculated a cost per round yet.

 

I like the thought of being semi-self sufficient and the ability to stockpile components if the Great Ammo Scare II--The Quickening ever occurs.  The value of being able to provide for myself outweighs waiting at Academy in the cold before opening just to be able to buy 50-100 rounds at a time.  

 

I had one squib, which was a little scary, but since I figured out how it happened and how to prevent another one, I'm more comfortable.  

[Patton]

Dawgdoc, let me know if you ever need to borrow anything or get in on some group buys with cast .355 projectiles.

[dawgdoc]

Dawgdoc, let me know if you ever need to borrow anything or get in on some group buys with cast .355 projectiles.

 

Thanks for the offer.  Right now I'm still experimenting and buying small amounts of bullets, trying to determine what works best.

[DaveTN]

I looked at it. I decided I would have to like it as a hobby because I wouldn’t save any money. I would want the best quality components and equipment. I didn’t need another hobby.

I have never reloaded a round in my life. But I have spent most of my life as a Machinist/Toolmaker/Programmer/QA with a lot of experience in stamping and multi-slide presses. I would need to see proof that someone can reload with better quality and consistency than a quality ammo manufacturer.

My other thought is that accuracy is a lot more the shooter than the hardware. I know people that can pick up any quality firearm, fire a few rounds, and then proceed to shoot the center out of the target.

[musicman]

As you start to reload, you may notice that there really CAN be an accuracy difference with different ammo. Like... substantial... on the order of going from 1" to 3" groups at shorter ranges with handguns.

Now, a lot of that has to do with powder selection not being the best for a given caliber/bullet weight. One would assume a major manufacturer cranking out billions of rounds does testing and finds a combination that should work well in most firearms. I just wanted to note that. No, a great recipe will no make a bad shooter good, but I have experienced that a bad recipe can make a good shooter look bad and begin to doubt himself/herself and the gun.

[Spiffy]

I probably don't save any money reloading but I do it for the "custom" aspect for match ammo.  No one sells 40 S&W at minor Power Factor and my 147 9mms are a touch hotter than factory to make sure it passes chrono stage at different matches.

[NeveSSL]

I believe I'll save a little bit of money, but I really just want to know how to do it and understand firearms a bit better in the end.  I don't shoot much at all compared to most (I go to the range on average probably once a month... for now... that may go up soon as my price per round goes down :) ), so the minor investment into a Lee Classic Turret Press and the associated reloading gear seems to me to be a good investment into knowledge at the least.  :)

 

I just mounted it to a 2x10 today.  :D  Will have to get a set of dies soon.  HUGE car repair bill has set me back a bit for now, but I'll eventually get what I need.  I will probably start with .380 dies and then get my .45 dies.  We'll see.  :)

Thanks, again, for all of the replies!

 

Brandon

[R_Bert]

I would reverse that.  I think 45ACP will be easier to learn on (unless you already have the .380 dies). 

 

.380 is much lighter wall,  much shorter and harder to handle (finger-wise).  Easier to crunch, and OAL is a bugger to set until you get acclimated. 

 

BTW, If you plan to crimp, I suggest a set of Lee Factory Crimps on either.

Edited January 25, 2016 by R_Bert

[NeveSSL]

Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. I may grab both sets of dies (planning on getting Lee deluxe kits that include the crimping die) and learn on .45, switch to the .380 after some guided loading on the .45.

Thanks for the reply!

Brandon

[TNMTBik3r]

I would agree .45acp is probably better to start on. Larger case and bullets are easier to handle, I hate how small 9mm feels when swapping to loading that caliber.
It's a low pressure round, a variety of powders work for it. I use W231 and Titegroup usually.
Watch out for the primer pockets, .45 can be large or small primer so have to separate.

[Patton]

I have found 45acp to be much like 38spl when loading. Both of them are very easy and accept a wide range of powders. I actually hate the tapered shape of 9mm when loading and I hate the thin brass associated with .380acp.

[Sidecarist]

Well I'm about to start loading 9mm so I'm in for a treat...

I've loaded 45acp for many years and found it to be very forgiving compared to 40s&w, 10mm, 41mag, and others.

[musicman]

My only advice when starting new 9mm loads... start in small batches.

I have been loading 40 for years, and I've NEVER had a load that didn't cycle every 40 cal gun I own, or tried them in. However, in 9 I've had more than a few that don't have enough "oomph." I start with batches of 30 rds of a new recipe and test that before proceeding. I got all excited and ran off 200 of my very first recipe. Didn't cycle for crap. Great way to practice yer malf drills. :/

I've found a few more loads that don't run in 9mm since then, but thankfully made small batches.

I definitely agree that 9 is a bit more work than 40/10, 38/357, 44, and 45. I don't even wanna think about 380. I hate that caliber anyways, so thankfully I'll never hafta fool with it.

[musicman]

Oh, and if yer still thinking about checking out my set up, I have 100 .45 cases primed and ready for you. Just bring bullets. I don't load 45 for myself but have equipment on hand for friends who do. We can run you 3 loads using Titegroup, Bullseye, and HP38/W231. All great choices for 45.

[CommsNBombs]

9mm isnt too awful bad but Musicman is right - 9mm is capricious especially with metal guns.

Had rounds that would do great in my Glock but my Sig would choke and FTE.

....at least youre not starting with .25 ACP or 5.7......Never again

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

[NeveSSL]

My only advice when starting new 9mm loads... start in small batches.

I have been loading 40 for years, and I've NEVER had a load that didn't cycle every 40 cal gun I own, or tried them in. However, in 9 I've had more than a few that don't have enough "oomph." I start with batches of 30 rds of a new recipe and test that before proceeding. I got all excited and ran off 200 of my very first recipe. Didn't cycle for crap. Great way to practice yer malf drills. :/

I've found a few more loads that don't run in 9mm since then, but thankfully made small batches.

I definitely agree that 9 is a bit more work than 40/10, 38/357, 44, and 45. I don't even wanna think about 380. I hate that caliber anyways, so thankfully I'll never hafta fool with it.

I just have to say real quick that I read this as "I have been loading for 40 years."  And I thought "Dang, he's a LOT older than he looks!  Did he start when he was 5 or something?"   :eek:

 

Thanks for all of your feedback, musicman.  I'll see you soon.  :)

 

Brandon

[musicman]

Hahaha! I make 60 look good, lol!

[Sidecarist]

You make it look a fair sight better than I make 52 look! lol....

[East_TN_Patriot]

I reload as much for the enjoyment of it as I do trying to save any money.  Like many other reloaders out there, I find something calming and satisfying about making my own ammunition.  Worth every penny I spend on reloading equipment.  

[EMB145]

I have to say, I started reloading because of a S&W 500 magnum purchase. Then started reloading for my S&W 629. I have saved money in that part of it.

 

Now for the other part. I carry a Sig P238 and reload for it. I've made thousands of rounds and just saying the average box of 50 will be $15.00. I have saved money. Except for my shooting habits.  I shoot on average 200 rounds of 380 a week and sometimes up to 400 rounds. If I carry it, I want to train with it and fire it as much as I can.

 

Buying bullets in bulk and keeping a stock pile of primers, powder, I feel good about it. Again, I have not saved much,if anything, but I hit the range a whole lot more and my goal is to get the little Sig to be an extension of my hand. Nothing can do that but putting rounds down range. Reloading lets me afford to do that.

[Caster]

My only advice when starting new 9mm loads... start in small batches.
I have been loading 40 for years, and I've NEVER had a load that didn't cycle every 40 cal gun I own, or tried them in. However, in 9 I've had more than a few that don't have enough "oomph." I start with batches of 30 rds of a new recipe and test that before proceeding. I got all excited and ran off 200 of my very first recipe. Didn't cycle for crap. Great way to practice yer malf drills. :/
I've found a few more loads that don't run in 9mm since then, but thankfully made small batches.
I definitely agree that 9 is a bit more work than 40/10, 38/357, 44, and 45. I don't even wanna think about 380. I hate that caliber anyways, so thankfully I'll never hafta fool with it.

That goes for ANY caliber. Anyone who would just start loading something in large quantity without accuracy and function testing is doing himself a great disservice.

[musicman]

I agree for the most part. However, if I were bored on a weekend and only had components for a midrange load for 357 on hand... honestly I may go ahead and run off a few hundred of those without testing first. As long as it doesn't blow up the gun and clears the barrel we're good. Sure,they may make 3" groups at 10 yards... that's what I'll give my buddies to shoot while I shoot a tested load, lol! I'll look like a rock star, haha! Edited January 26, 2016 by musicman

[NeveSSL]

I have to say, I started reloading because of a S&W 500 magnum purchase. Then started reloading for my S&W 629. I have saved money in that part of it.

 

Now for the other part. I carry a Sig P238 and reload for it. I've made thousands of rounds and just saying the average box of 50 will be $15.00. I have saved money. Except for my shooting habits.  I shoot on average 200 rounds of 380 a week and sometimes up to 400 rounds. If I carry it, I want to train with it and fire it as much as I can.

 

Buying bullets in bulk and keeping a stock pile of primers, powder, I feel good about it. Again, I have not saved much,if anything, but I hit the range a whole lot more and my goal is to get the little Sig to be an extension of my hand. Nothing can do that but putting rounds down range. Reloading lets me afford to do that.

 

Any tips or hints on reloading .380?

​Brandon

[Caster]

Get a Lee factory crimp die and a Lee bulge buster kit for it. Tumble clean, then run them through and iron out the bugle at the base before running them through the sizing die.

.380's are notorious for having unsupported chambers. It's what they do to get those little pocket pistols to feed reliably. As a side effect, the thin brass of the .380 swells at the base and a standard sizing die will often NOT iron that out. Therein lies one of the leading issues of reloading the .380 and getting your reloads to cycle reliably. Edited January 26, 2016 by Caster