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Host gun ideas? .22 cal


htyler

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I'm looking to suppress a .22 cal and would like some feedback on which gun I should use as a host gun? You can I assume I know little about this topic. Please share what you prefer or know to be true about the topic. Also, which can would you pair it with. I've read a lot of threads on here about cans and am even more confused than when I started. Thanks for the comments and your knowledge. 

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I am no can expert, but I would assume there is no difference in a can for a 22LR and a 223/5.56, both are the same in terms of caliber size of the bullet.  So its just finding a host rifle with a threaded barrel, otherwise gunsmith time.

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Not offering specifics here, just a general comment.

More and more these days we see the use of multi-caliber cans. For example, getting a can for 45acp and using it for 40 and 9 as well. Using the 22 for 223/556 as well.

We seem to be moving away from the caliber specific type now, i.e. , using a 22 rated for 22 cal only.

I really don't know enough about it to say it's good or bad, but this is happening. And with the costs of can and tax stamp, this should be a good thing.

Personally, I'm sort of thinking and looking into that as well. If I can get a good 45 can and use it for 40 and 9 as well...I'll be very happy.
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I have a dedicated .22lr can because it is half a pound lighter than my 5.56 can (4.1 oz vs 12 oz + mount) .  It is rated for more than .22lr, but that's all I use it for.

 

I bought a CZ 452 rifle and had the barrel cut down to 16" and threaded by a local gunsmith.  I only shoot without the can on to demonstrate the difference to other people.  A bolt action rifle is a simple and reliable host and I prefer that.  

 

DO NOT SHOOT 5.56 THROUGH A .22LR CAN.  The pressures and gas volume are not the same.  

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Great info and thanks for all that have replied.

 

I recently acquired a Ruger American .22 bolt-action rifle. Great little gun, love it, very accurate, and comes w/ a threaded barrel from the factory!

Have seen people using cans for .308 rifles on it on you-tube vid's.

 

- K
 

ReeferMac and/or ehull20000, what would be the biggest con for going semi as opposed to bolt action?

 

 

Pistol or rifle?
I don’t have any cans, but my M&P22 rifle came with a threaded barrel.

 

I eventually want to use the one can for both. Would that present an issue? 

 

I have a dedicated .22lr can because it is half a pound lighter than my 5.56 can (4.1 oz vs 12 oz + mount) .  It is rated for more than .22lr, but that's all I use it for.

 

I bought a CZ 452 rifle and had the barrel cut down to 16" and threaded by a local gunsmith.  I only shoot without the can on to demonstrate the difference to other people.  A bolt action rifle is a simple and reliable host and I prefer that.  

 

DO NOT SHOOT 5.56 THROUGH A .22LR CAN.  The pressures and gas volume are not the same.  

 

ReeferMac and/or ehull20000, what would be the biggest con for going semi as opposed to bolt action?

 

I am tending to agree with the dedicated .22 can although I do agree with hipower in that seems to be a lot of multi use for a single can is a growing trend. Who knows, LawEnforcementSales warned me it would be addictive, maybe that will be in my next can. 

 

Thanks again Gents you are scholars in my book. 

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22lr and .223 have very different characteristics. I highly recommend a dedicated, user-serviceable rimfire supressor. Then a nice .30 can for everything else.

Is there a certain can you recommend for this purpose? 

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What I have learned over time is a .22 can will accumilate lead so you should get a user serviceable can. Center fire cans can be used on .22s however eventually all that lead will have to be removed or can will be useless. There are basically two types of .22 cans, mono-core and k-baffles. Mono-cores tend to work most effectively with rifles and k-baffles designs work best with pistol. past that, its all a balance on what specific can-gun combination you want. On rifles bolt actions tend to be a little more quiet just because of the action noise and less pressure escaping from the chamber as the bolt extracts the spent casing. Hope this helps.

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What I have learned over time is a .22 can will accumilate lead so you should get a user serviceable can. Center fire cans can be used on .22s however eventually all that lead will have to be removed or can will be useless. There are basically two types of .22 cans, mono-core and k-baffles. Mono-cores tend to work most effectively with rifles and k-baffles designs work best with pistol. past that, its all a balance on what specific can-gun combination you want. On rifles bolt actions tend to be a little more quiet just because of the action noise and less pressure escaping from the chamber as the bolt extracts the spent casing. Hope this helps.

 

Summed that up right nice. Much appreciated! It does kind of put a damper on the idea of using it for a rifle and pistol. 

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ReeferMac and/or ehull20000, what would be the biggest con for going semi as opposed to bolt action?

 

For your purposes I'm not sure it matters?
I chose the bolt b/c I have a couple kids in the house who will be the secondary users (I'm finding I love the thing so much I'm using it more!), and the bolt action will help teach them trigger discipline. Too easy to whip through a clip when all you have to do is pull the trigger. If you have to cycle a bolt and re-acquire your target, you'll be more careful when pulling the trigger.

 

- K

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Is there a certain can you recommend for this purpose?

Tons of good 22 cans out there. Depends on budget. Pick a major manufacturer and go for it.
Gemtech, AAC, Liberty, Silencerco, Dead Air(Mask would be my current pick), Griffin Armament, surefire, Sig and others. Same advice and budget applies to centerfire rifle cans. Also, if you're the least bit handy and have access to the right tools, file a form 1 and build them. Edited by Jct1911
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My experience has been like this: Best bang for the buck is a suppressed bolt action .22lr, You get the full effect of the can, all you here on mine is the firing pin drop. I have a very hard time finding a non high velocity .22 round that will cycle a semi-auto rifle well, and after clearing enough FTE's you get bored with it. You can run a little higher velocity load in a pistol because the short barrel does not give the bullet enough time to get to a supersonic speed, but you will still have cycling issues for the most part. I have heard the M&P .22 and the the Ruger 22/45 suppress well but I don't have either and can't say I have heard them. You really didn't mention caliber so if you are thinking center fire then 300 BLK is hard to beat but expensive stuff to shoot if you don't reaload, I have read here that if you reload it can be cheaper to shoot than 9mm.

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I hope to get my first can this year. The rifle I'm going to use is my Savage FV-SR .22lr. I'd like to go with a Silencerco Sparrow. This is a pretty sweet little gun. It has a 16.5" barrel so even with a can on the end it doesn't look so long. I can't wait to get the ball rolling. Twang n' Bang does a good video on this gun with a silencer.

Kind of off topic but I just did a cheap paint job on the factory stock with krylon fusion and a couple coats of matte clear coat. I plan to order a Boyd's stock soon so I wasn't worried about messing this one up. I think it turned out ok.

Before (with my oldest taking a shot off the "bench")
b12cb79cf905535250f439589d163c6b.jpg

Now
18a4c7a8b561861ce14808146fddd8dc.jpg476ca7409d7a87e51232cfd1e4567908.jpg

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Ruger 10/22 tactical. Comes with a factory threaded barrel. Cycles just fine with standard velocity ammo and all you hear is the click of the bolt moving.

 

100_0716.jpg

 

Browning Buckmark Camper with a Tactical Solutions barrel and Burris Fast Fire sight. Agian, all you hear is the bolt moving.

 

100_0721.jpg

 

The can itself was made by a company called Long Range Precision. I use the same can on both guns.  I got it pretty cheap as the company was new and trying to get off the ground. Standard K-baffle construction and works great. Unfortunately, the company didn't survive. 

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Ruger 10/22 tactical. Comes with a factory threaded barrel. Cycles just fine with standard velocity ammo and all you hear is the click of the bolt moving.

 

100_0716.jpg

 

Browning Buckmark Camper with a Tactical Solutions barrel and Burris Fast Fire sight. Agian, all you hear is the bolt moving.

 

100_0721.jpg

 

The can itself was made by a company called Long Range Precision. I use the same can on both guns.  I got it pretty cheap as the company was new and trying to get off the ground. Standard K-baffle construction and works great. Unfortunately, the company didn't survive. 

 

This is exactly what I was looking to do. If you are looking to off load these I may know someone. Thanks for sharing.

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I went with a Savage Mark II FV-SR and put a Rifle Basix trigger, a Boyds stock, aftermarket bottom metal and a Nikon P-22 3-9x. I put a Huntertown Arms Guardian on it and it shoots Gemtech subs very accurately. You can't go wrong with a good bolt gun.

 

For pistols I go with either a Ruger 22/45 Lite or a Colt/Umarex 1911-22. Both are a blast to shoot. I had to buy another 1911-22 because dad took the first one I had.

Edited by gunrunner32
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