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How to treat a homemade holster?


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I've made several holsters from scrap leather I bought at Hobby Lobby. These are leather on the side that touches the body and a Kydex mold on the outside.

 

I've done nothing to treat leather.  Should I?  If so, should I treat both sides of the leather? Should I treat the leather inside the Kydex mold where the weapon touches the leather or not treat that part? 

 

Let me be clear on my objectives. I mostly want to stop sweat from reaching the weapon and make sure the leather doesn't stain my shirts or pants. The leather is very flexible now and I prefer it that way. If I need more retention, I'll just remove the spacers on the Chicago screws holding the Kydex to the leather.

 

All I have on hand is Kiwi Mink Oil. It's pasty like a wax. If I need something else, let me know.

 

Do I even need to bother with treating the leather? It's not like I expect these holsters to last forever.

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The 1st question I have is where did you get the leather, the reason for the questions are that if it was scrap itay or may not have been treated, but one way to ensure it will last for a long time is to treat it periodically so that the leather does not wear out, if it has been staine with a color it could rub off unless sealed. Sealing it will ensure that it does not rub off and help keep the oils sealed in.
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to add to  the above, there are sealers made as a top coat that many of the top holster makers use that give a holster its nice sheen when done, they come in a gloss, or semi gloss finish, that is usually applied once the holster or any leather has been worked.  1st the finishing process would be the stain, or dye, neats foot oil, the top coat sealer.  the sealer will prevent the dye, especially if it is an oil based dye, from rubbing off.  Oil based dies are notorious for rubbing off.  There are a few different companies that sell sealers, Tandy being one and, weaver is another their name for it is tuff kote, I have it in clear, another is Fiebings their name for it is Acrylic Resolene.  All of these need to be applied with a damp sponge, a lot of pros use a damp sheep skin to apply it.  You have to cautious when doing it as it will streak.  And when done make sure you rinse out the tool ( sponge, sheep skin) with warm water. 

Hope this helps good luck.

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More than likely the leather has been treated. If it is the scrap leather I have seen there, it's either scrap upholstery leather or the small pieces of vegetable tanned leather. If it is the veg-tan leather, it wouldn't hurt anything to put a little coating of something on it. I typically use an acrylic finish on the holsters and sheaths I make, but I have also used a wax finish. I have also read that it's not uncommon for people to wipe a light coating of olive oil on, but my gut says that the oil would go rancid after a while. It's going to be pretty much impossible to prevent any and all sweat from reaching the leather. It's hard to say without seeing the leather and the product you have exactly whether that would be a good product for your needs. You may just want to head over to the Tandy Leather shop in Nashville, take the holster with you, and let them suggest what to use. My gut tells me they will recommend their Super Shene or Satin Shene. You may also be able to use neutral shoe polish.
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I found these links a bit ago when I got to thinking about my hybrid holster and gun belt. Galco makes a decent product but they are about $8 each or so, due to being for guns. Some boot products have the same ingredients such as the mink oil and kiwi clear and are a bit cheaper, and for me already on hand. Because we are discussing a hybrid holster you don't have to worry so much about making it too soft, though it may change the rigidity some if you use too much. Mine is also leather lined so I may get the interior Galco product to slick it up some, in the future.

http://www.handgunsmag.com/gear-accessories/holsters/care-for-leather-holsters/

http://www.opticsplanet.com/howto/how-to-maintain-a-leather-holster.html
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