Brake Bleeder Systems - Pressure Kit?

[TNMTBik3r]

Growing up working on vehicles with my dad, he never bled the brakes and put in new fluid. Over the past few years I have tried to extend the maintenance I perform on my own vehicles by including brake fluid replacement along with other maintenance. 

 

I have been using a turkey baster to drain the master cylinder and then using brake pressure to drain the lines. This can take a while and is aggravating to perform. I need to replace the brake pads on my car again soon and it is time for new brake fluid. I am considering buying a one man DIY pressure bleeder kit but I don't trust Amazon reviews.

 

Anyone have a recommendation for a bleeder kit? Something with adapters for multiple vehicles, I have a Chevy, Ford, and Honda that this will be used on - need it for the Honda right now. I thought about, and still may, just check with one of the small shops here and see what they would charge to bleed the system if I bring in my own fluid.

 

The Motive power bleeder stands out as a decent system from what I have seen on other sites. Anything else I should consider?

[Photoguy67]

vacuum bleeder kits are a lot easier then pressure kits. imho.

[Two Dogs]

Motive rocks, you can't run the system dry but you need multiple adapters. Vacuum systems work well and don't need multiple adapters. The two person at system (pump and open, repeat) has never failed when done properly and doesn't require any investment.

[TNMTBik3r]

Any recommendation for a vacuum system? Mityvac looks like a popular brand based on 2 minutes of research.

[Sam1]

harbor freight one works great and it's universal so you can use it on just about anything that requires vacuum - oil samples, bleeding brakes, emptying reservoirs etc.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about getting an expensive one, they don't get used that often and there's not a performance factor that goes with something like this (unless you're running a shop).

Edited October 25, 2015 by Sam1

[NRA]

vacuum bleeder kits are a lot easier then pressure kits. imho.

this, and it can be completed solo

[Shepherd Master]

http://www.sears.com/mityvac-automotive-tune-up-and-brake-bleeding-kit/p-00947058000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=Cj0KEQjw2KyxBRCi2rK11NCDw6UBEiQAO-tljVFJU_Vjv4zVomZQfze13kLebE9drNJT3d4g6FrO_gcaAgBk8P8HAQ

 

This is the kit I have, worth every penny.

[Sam1]

http://www.sears.com/mityvac-automotive-tune-up-and-brake-bleeding-kit/p-00947058000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=Cj0KEQjw2KyxBRCi2rK11NCDw6UBEiQAO-tljVFJU_Vjv4zVomZQfze13kLebE9drNJT3d4g6FrO_gcaAgBk8P8HAQ

 

This is the kit I have, worth every penny.

 

 

That's the same one I got from harbor freight, think it was $25 - been a few years back though

[TNMTBik3r]

Thanks - think I will grab that Mityvac kit. Not a bad price and reviews on the brand seem favorable.

[2.ooohhh]

As an owner of both I will advise that the motive is worlds better than the mitivac at bleeding brakes. I can fully flush a system in 15 min with the motive, and it moves enough fluid to bleed even the most frustrating of calipers.

[Johnny Rotten]

When I do a C service on my H1, every 12k miles the manual states all fluids are changed, how I do the brake fluid is: using a turkey baster suck everything out of the master cylinder only leaving 1/4" of old brake fluid , fill it to the top with new fluid, get your pumping buddy, bleed each caliper until you see fresh brake fluid and check MC as needed during the buddy pumping process.

[TNMTBik3r]

When I do a C service on my H1, every 12k miles the manual states all fluids are changed, how I do the brake fluid is: using a turkey baster suck everything out of the master cylinder only leaving 1/4" of old brake fluid , fill it to the top with new fluid, get your pumping buddy, bleed each caliper until you see fresh brake fluid and check MC as needed during the buddy pumping process.

That has been my process for the past few years. It works but I know there is a better/easier way and don't have to rely on any help with one of the solo kits.

[peejman]

I've only ever done cars the old fashioned way.  In my experience the mityvac kits don't work worth a crap on cars with ABS.  They won't pull enough vacuum to move the fluid through all the ABS plumbing, particularly all the way to the back brakes.  Every time I've tried one I've had to go back and bleed them again the old fashioned way a couple days later.  They work good for motorcycles, cars not so much. 

Edited October 25, 2015 by peejman

[Sam1]

I've only ever done cars the old fashioned way.  In my experience the mityvac kits don't work worth a crap on cars with ABS.  They won't pull enough vacuum to move the fluid through all the ABS plumbing, particularly all the way to the back brakes.  Every time I've tried one I've had to go back and bleed them again the old fashioned way a couple days later.  They work good for motorcycles, cars not so much. 

 

 

never had an issue with it and used it on an S10, a gmc canyon, a mercedes, jaguar and a cobalt all with ABS, both drum and disk in the rear.

[crashgordan]

Speed bleeders. Sublime

[Ron45]

Changing brake fluid is pointless, unless it has become contaminated. It will become dark, but that does not hurt the system. I have only demanded brake fluid be changed when it has become contaminated or overheated. IMHO it is a waste of time and money to change it at any other time. I have been a mechanic in chevy dealers since 1998. It is just a wallet flush that the oil companies and dealerships make money on.

[2.ooohhh]

Changing brake fluid is pointless, unless it has become contaminated. It will become dark, but that does not hurt the system. I have only demanded brake fluid be changed when it has become contaminated or overheated. IMHO it is a waste of time and money to change it at any other time. I have been a mechanic in chevy dealers since 1998. It is just a wallet flush that the oil companies and dealerships make money on.

Absolutely incorrect. Sorry but Dot 3 / Dot 4 brake fluid is hygroscopic, it will readily absorb moisture from the air. If it's been in your car for two years or more it's often absorbed enough water to drastically reduce it's boiling point causing a spongy pedal after prolonged braking and promoting the rusting of brake components from within. Drive a car capable of boiling the fluid hard enough and you"ll change your tune after experiencing the pedal fade away when you need brakes the most.




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[Spots]

Absolutely incorrect. Sorry but Dot 3 / Dot 4 brake fluid is hygroscopic, it will readily absorb moisture from the air. If it's been in your car for two years or more it's often absorbed enough water to drastically reduce it's boiling point causing a spongy pedal after prolonged braking and promoting the rusting of brake components from within. Drive a car capable of boiling the fluid hard enough and you"ll change your tune after experiencing the pedal fade away when you need brakes the most.




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And that's the exact reason I changed mine relegious in my WarD. That car saw high speeds on dangerous roads every weekend. It only took boiling the old fluid once and I started swapping it every 6 months. The only fluid that doesn't absorb water that I know of is DOT 5 and it's silicon based and shouldn't be mixed with anything else.

Sent from behind the anvil Edited October 26, 2015 by Spots

[Sam1]

Absolutely incorrect. Sorry but Dot 3 / Dot 4 brake fluid is hygroscopic, it will readily absorb moisture from the air. If it's been in your car for two years or more it's often absorbed enough water to drastically reduce it's boiling point causing a spongy pedal after prolonged braking and promoting the rusting of brake components from within. Drive a car capable of boiling the fluid hard enough and you"ll change your tune after experiencing the pedal fade away when you need brakes the most.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I knew that was the case, but had no idea it could occur that fast. I always went with a 4-5 year change, thanks for the tip.

[peejman]

Absolutely incorrect. Sorry but Dot 3 / Dot 4 brake fluid is hygroscopic, it will readily absorb moisture from the air. If it's been in your car for two years or more it's often absorbed enough water to drastically reduce it's boiling point causing a spongy pedal after prolonged braking and promoting the rusting of brake components from within. Drive a car or motorcycle capable of boiling the fluid hard enough and you"ll change your tune after experiencing the pedal fade away when you need brakes the most.

 

 

 

FTFY.  :)

 

 

Replacing brake fluid annually is compulsory on the bike.  I'd change it 2-3 times/yr when I rode the sport bike in anger. 

 

 

 

And that's the exact reason I changed mine relegious in my WarD. That car saw high speeds on dangerous roads every weekend. It only took boiling the old fluid once and I started swapping it every 6 months. The only fluid that doesn't absorb water that I know of is DOT 5 and it's silicon based and shouldn't be mixed with anything else.

Sent from behind the anvil

 

 

Good point.  DOT 3 and 4 are interchangeable.  DOT 5 is not.  Do not put DOT 5 in a system designed for DOT 3 or 4. 

[TNMTBik3r]

I ordered the Mityvac MV8000, should be here in a couple days.

Will update with how it works out but for the price seems like the best buy.

[hardknox00001]

I have the small mityvac and I have this one...

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

 

That one requires you have a decent sized air compressor but it does great up to a point.  I have found that no matter what I do, it pulls air bubbles in the receptacle hose from around where it attaches to the bleeder screw.  So what I do is use the air compressor to pull fluid til I see new fluid, then I leave it attached and go mash the pedal a time or two to make sure there is no air in the system.  Haven't had any problems to this point, and it doesn't take long to do.

[Sam1]

What kind of airflow do you actually need with that one? Mine is only 5cfm, but would love to switch to not have to pump 100 times on the manual one.

[2.ooohhh]

What kind of airflow do you actually need with that one? Mine is only 5cfm, but would love to switch to not have to pump 100 times on the manual one.

 

With the air powered vacuum style they typically will work with as little as 3-4 CFM(at least my blue-point one will) but work MUCH better with higher airflow. Having owned the blue-point vacuum style, a mighty-vac, and the motive I still wholeheartedly recommend the motive for bleeding brakes. I keep the Blue-point around for hydraulic clutches and the occasional air over hydraulic lift cylinder issue in some exotics but otherwise I'm reaching for the motive if I'm bleeding brakes. 

Edited October 27, 2015 by 2.ooohhh