Installing Air Lift Loader Lifter 5000 on F150 without removing tires?

[macville]

Hey guys, so the subject line pretty much is my question. I bought a LoadLifter 5000 kit to install on my 2008 F150 Crew Cab because the back sags when I haul my utility trailer. Looking at videos online, I see people either jacking their trucks up on stands and taking the tires off to install or lifting their trucks up on a lift. I am trying to see about getting access to a lift, but am not holding my breath. So my two options are to either put my truck on stands, which I am not crazy about because I have no clue what my current stands are rated for. Or to put my truck up on ramps, but obviously keep the tires on. Wasn't sure if there was a way to put air lift kits on with the leaf springs somewhat compressed?

[raildog]

What's the instructions say? Who ever wrote them probably had some clue of hiw to do it just saying

[glock55]

Your best bet is to raise the rear of truck on jack stands. If not sure of your current stands you need to buy some that are rated for the weight of your truck. You might be able to rent a pair from a parts house or rental place. Remember safety first.

[Capbyrd]

Step two of the instructions says the following. 


 

2. Drop the axle or raise the frame up to make room for the assemblies to be put into position between the frame and axle . 

 

​Therefore, I would recommend getting you some jack stands that you know are properly rated.  You spent 500 dollars on some air bags.  30 bucks for some jack stands aint gonna kill you.  


http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-4-ton-jack-stands-one/p-00950163000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

 

 

[peejman]

How big of a utility trailer do you have that's making the truck squat significantly?  Can you rearrange what's on the trailer so there's not quite so much tongue weight?  Would a weight distribution hitch work better?

 

As for jack stands, you'll have a hard time finding jack stands tall enough that won't be rated to WAY more than necessary.  Most will be rated at 3 tons, which means (theoretically) you could sit the entire truck on one of them.  Just chock the front tires so it can't roll either direction.

[macville]

 

Step two of the instructions says the following. 


 

2. Drop the axle or raise the frame up to make room for the assemblies to be put into position between the frame and axle . 

 

​Therefore, I would recommend getting you some jack stands that you know are properly rated.  You spent 500 dollars on some air bags.  30 bucks for some jack stands aint gonna kill you.  


http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-4-ton-jack-stands-one/p-00950163000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

 

 

The issue is less about being able to get jack stands that will support the truck and more about my safety. I do not like getting under a truck that is supported on a jack stand. However, I have figured out by looking at multiple videos online that I can do the work of the bracket/bag install without getting under the truck while on the stand. Then, after I get them installed I can put the tire back on and put it up on a ramp to run the hoses and finish the install that requires me to be under the truck. It won't be as quick to install as lifting the truck on a lift, but it will work.

[macville]

How big of a utility trailer do you have that's making the truck squat significantly?  Can you rearrange what's on the trailer so there's not quite so much tongue weight?  Would a weight distribution hitch work better?

 

As for jack stands, you'll have a hard time finding jack stands tall enough that won't be rated to WAY more than necessary.  Most will be rated at 3 tons, which means (theoretically) you could sit the entire truck on one of them.  Just chock the front tires so it can't roll either direction.

 

I think it's 3000-3500lbs when loaded. The trailer is loaded 60/40 like it supposed to be. The problem is, I have to load the back of my truck too when hauling this trailer. Therefore, while I am not over the limit set by Ford, it's pushing everything to it's limited.

[56FordGuy]

With the trailer and the bed loaded, you may be over your rear axle weight rating. Suspension mods won't help that.

I'd load it up and go weigh it so you know exactly what you're dealing with.

[peejman]

I think it's 3000-3500lbs when loaded. The trailer is loaded 60/40 like it supposed to be. The problem is, I have to load the back of my truck too when hauling this trailer. Therefore, while I am not over the limit set by Ford, it's pushing everything to it's limited.

 

 

At 3500 lbs and 60/40 you've got about 500 lbs on the tongue, which means about 600 lbs on the rear axle.  Add that to whatever you're putting in the bed. 

Edited October 15, 2015 by peejman

[glowdotGlock]

Just roll your floor jack under the differential and Jack it up. Once the tires are about 5 or 6 inches off the ground make some sort of cribbing and stack underneath the reciever hitch the lower the diff back down. The tires should almost be on the ground. Chock the front too.

[Capbyrd]

The issue is less about being able to get jack stands that will support the truck and more about my safety. I do not like getting under a truck that is supported on a jack stand. However, I have figured out by looking at multiple videos online that I can do the work of the bracket/bag install without getting under the truck while on the stand. Then, after I get them installed I can put the tire back on and put it up on a ramp to run the hoses and finish the install that requires me to be under the truck. It won't be as quick to install as lifting the truck on a lift, but it will work.

 

 

I can understand that.  But like you already discovered, this mounts outside the frame so you don't really need to be under it to mount. 

[Trekbike]

I think it's 3000-3500lbs when loaded. The trailer is loaded 60/40 like it supposed to be.

That's some utility trailer! That sounds more like a full on trailer. :)

[macville]

That's some utility trailer! That sounds more like a full on trailer. :)

 

Sorry, I meant enclosed cargo trailer. I think of utility trailers as flatbeds and cargo trailers as utility. So yeah, it's a big trailer, 6x12 enclosed.

[runco]

Trade to a F250, and never look back.  If my truck squats I have to be pulling some heavy weight, I mean heavy.  Also, I would be more worried about stopping power in a F150 than worried about the squat.  

[Shepherd Master]

You'd have been better off in my opinion to have swapped the leaf packs......General Spring. 

 

Don't really understand your fear or working under your truck......................

[macville]

You'd have been better off in my opinion to have swapped the leaf packs......General Spring. 

 

Don't really understand your fear or working under your truck......................

 

The professionals I talked to said that in my case (how often I tow and what I load) I would be better off with an air lift kit. It has to do with the fact that 75% of the time driving my truck I am not towing, so I can lower the bags and get a better ride for that time. 

 

My fear is having the truck drop on me because something happened with the jack stand. I see no reason to put myself in harms way if I can avoid it:)

[peejman]

Once you jack it up, put both rear wheels (or anything sturdy) under it so if it falls it'll fall on the wheels and not you.

[macville]

Well, I wrote out an update to my install yesterday, but evidently it never got posted and I closed the window. So, for what I learned about installing an airlift kit is.... Best to put your truck up on a lift. Taking the tires off really doesn't make it any easier. The first tire I took off, but the second tire I left on for the install. You will have to lift the truck from some other point than the axle to actually install the lift bag. Only if you can lift by frame of the truck can you actually install the kit.

 

I ended up putting both bags on a T at back of my truck so I can fill both at the same time and keep the same pressure also. It would be nice to have one of their compressors installed, but it's really not a big deal using a little car air compressor. I can go from 0 PSI to 50 in less than 30 seconds because the bags are so small. It's not inconvenient enough to spend another $200 unless I start towing big stuff multiple times a week. Honestly, I hope I never get to that point because I don't want to spend that much time driving! 

 

I have noticed that even at the minimum 5 psi it does change the ride of the truck some. The truck just has a little more bounce to it when going over bumps/potholes/speedbumps. It's not bad, just a different feeling than I am used to from my truck. Still haven't towed my big trailer with it, but hoping to do that soon to see how it rides. I've noticed a nice difference already with just a heavy load in my truck bed.

[Capbyrd]

If you are doing anything suspension wise, you should be jacking on the frame. Truthfully, you should never jack up the axle but especially true when doing suspension work.


But glad you got it knocked out. Edited October 30, 2015 by Capbyrd

[macville]

If you are doing anything suspension wise, you should be jacking on the frame. Truthfully, you should never jack up the axle but especially true when doing suspension work.


But glad you got it knocked out.

 

Well the first part of the instructions show jacking up and putting the axle on a jack stand.... Then, it says, while the axle is on the jack stand, to jack up the frame to give you room to install the lift bags. I really don't think it's that safe to be under the truck like you have to be if the wheel is off, the axle is on a jack stand and then the frame is jacked up. But maybe I am just too careful:)

[2.ooohhh]

Well, I wrote out an update to my install yesterday, but evidently it never got posted and I closed the window. So, for what I learned about installing an airlift kit is.... Best to put your truck up on a lift. Taking the tires off really doesn't make it any easier. The first tire I took off, but the second tire I left on for the install. You will have to lift the truck from some other point than the axle to actually install the lift bag. Only if you can lift by frame of the truck can you actually install the kit.

 

I ended up putting both bags on a T at back of my truck so I can fill both at the same time and keep the same pressure also. It would be nice to have one of their compressors installed, but it's really not a big deal using a little car air compressor. I can go from 0 PSI to 50 in less than 30 seconds because the bags are so small. It's not inconvenient enough to spend another $200 unless I start towing big stuff multiple times a week. Honestly, I hope I never get to that point because I don't want to spend that much time driving! 

 

I have noticed that even at the minimum 5 psi it does change the ride of the truck some. The truck just has a little more bounce to it when going over bumps/potholes/speedbumps. It's not bad, just a different feeling than I am used to from my truck. Still haven't towed my big trailer with it, but hoping to do that soon to see how it rides. I've noticed a nice difference already with just a heavy load in my truck bed.

 

Some vehicles/tow combos really prefer separate air lines for each bag. This allows the bags to function more like the leaf springs; with the "T" in there air can transition from one bag to the other in sweeping turns as the suspension loads to one side. If they are independent each will be capable of helping it's side to resist the sway.  :up:

[Mike.357]

If I ever had to be under a vehicle on jack stands or a jack I put cinder blocks and 2X4"s under the frame just in case.

[macville]

Some vehicles/tow combos really prefer separate air lines for each bag. This allows the bags to function more like the leaf springs; with the "T" in there air can transition from one bag to the other in sweeping turns as the suspension loads to one side. If they are independent each will be capable of helping it's side to resist the sway.  :up:

 

That makes total sense. I may try switching it out to see if that changes anything. I only did the t because a lot of people online suggested it.

[2.ooohhh]

That makes total sense. I may try switching it out to see if that changes anything. I only did the t because a lot of people online suggested it.

 One solution I've used before is to mount a 1/4 turn valve in the line between the bags. Open valve on level ground to fill and balance, then close valve for isolation and stability during travel. 

[macville]

 One solution I've used before is to mount a 1/4 turn valve in the line between the bags. Open valve on level ground to fill and balance, then close valve for isolation and stability during travel. 

 

At that point, I think it'd be just as easy to bring both to the same PSI on different inputs. I'd rather not have to reach underneath my truck to open and close a valve.