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Blind roll pin removal


MrJones79

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Posted (edited)

Anyone have any success removing a blind roll pin from an AR stock? I've recently moved to TN from a commie state, and my HK MR556 stock has a small roll pin going through the stock and it's a blind pin (doesn't go all the way through on other side). Any ideas on how to remove it without massacring my stock/buffer tube? The stock HK parts are expensive ($200 each for stock and buffer tube), otherwise I wouldn't care so much.

 

Thanks for any advice. 

Edited by MrJones79
Posted

I don't know HK rifles by any means, but looking at pics/parts of that rifle, I'm a bit curious about the pin. Meaning, looks like a multi-position stock on a buffer tube, like any AR.

 

What does this pin "hold" and what does it prevent you from doing?

 

- OS

Posted

I don't know HK rifles by any means, but looking at pics/parts of that rifle, I'm a bit curious about the pin. Meaning, looks like a multi-position stock on a buffer tube, like any AR.

 

What does this pin "hold" and what does it prevent you from doing?

 

- OS

 

Ban state mod to change multi-position to a fixed stock.

Posted (edited)

Ban state mod to change multi-position to a fixed stock.

 

Ah so. Thanks.

 

Drill the sucker out? Even if it puts a small hole in side of tube shouldn't matter if edges are smooth on the inside?

 

- OS

Edited by Oh Shoot
Posted

Ah so. Thanks.

Drill the sucker out? Even if it puts a small hole in side of tube shouldn't matter if edges are smooth on the inside?

- OS

I wouldn't think it would matter much either. Even if it did, buffer tube's are cheap to replace.

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Posted
I had one on my M&P10. Drilled it out. Don't slip like I did. Also, it's way smart if you put a buttload of masking tape around, unlike I neglected to do in my frustrated rush.
Posted
Where is the pin located on the stock? Could you drill a matching hole from the other side and drive it out? Might need to drill slightly oversized hole so it lines up. This would depend on where/how it's located.
Posted (edited)

Where is the pin located on the stock? Could you drill a matching hole from the other side and drive it out? Might need to drill slightly oversized hole so it lines up. This would depend on where/how it's located.

 

No. Unfortunately, the moron who put it in drilled the hole cockeyed. 

Edited by MrJones79
Posted

I had one on my M&P10. Drilled it out. Don't slip like I did. Also, it's way smart if you put a buttload of masking tape around, unlike I neglected to do in my frustrated rush.

Masking tape is no match for fast moving bits.

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

No. Unfortunately, the moron who put it in drilled the hole cockeyed.

Hmmm. How close is the pin to the front of the stock? If you remove the buffer tube/stock from the AR, can you slide a thin hack saw blade between the stock and buffer tube to cut the roll pin? Again, it will depend on how/where it is positioned.

If you have to cut into the buffer tube, they are cheap. I'd just take extra care not to damage that stock. Edited by Wingshooter
Posted

Hmmm. How close is the pin to the front of the stock? If you remove the buffer tube/stock from the AR, can you slide a thin hack saw blade between the stock and buffer tube to cut the roll pin? Again, it will depend on how/where it is positioned.

If you have to cut into the buffer tube, they are cheap. I'd just take extra care not to damage that stock.

 

Yeah, that's kind of the issue. The HK buffer tube is $200 so I'm trying to spare it. I know...it's ridiculous, but I'd rather not replace it. Working on some pics I should have up in a second. 

 

The stock definitely has some wiggle in it, so that little pin can't be in there too tight...

  • Like 1
Posted

Put it in a drill press, lock the buttstock in a padded vice and drill the stock and just a bit into the tube and see if after that it can wiggle out.  If he did a bad job its just into the hollow of the tube and not into the other side.

Posted (edited)

Masking tape is no match for fast moving bits.

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It's a woodworking trick that works on plastics too. The tape isn't to stop the bit or guide it, you place it over where you want to drill and the tape helps keep the edges smooth by "clamping" them down as you drill/cut. Sign makers use a special low tack wide masking tape when cutting custom shapes and what not to help the edges stay smooth. I think thats what musician is referring too, maybe not though.

 

 

Looking at the pics I'm wondering if drilling it out might not be the best bet? I'm thinking that if you went just as deep as the stock you could then get it out and possible yank the remnants from the tube. Any way you go there will always be a small hole there unless you fill it with something (epoxy?) so I wouldn't think that it being a step up in size would matter too much?

Edited by TrickyNicky
  • Like 1
Posted

It's a woodworking trick that works on plastics too. The tape isn't to stop the bit or guide it, you place it over where you want to drill and the tape helps keep the edges smooth by "clamping" them down as you drill/cut. Sign makers use a special low tack wide masking tape when cutting custom shapes and what not to help the edges stay smooth. I think thats what musician is referring too, maybe not though.
 
 
Looking at the pics I'm wondering if drilling it out might not be the best bet? I'm thinking that if you went just as deep as the stock you could then get it out and possible yank the remnants from the tube. Any way you go there will always be a small hole there unless you fill it with something (epoxy?) so I wouldn't think that it being a step up in size would matter too much?


Yeah I am thinking a drill bit a hair bigger than the pin and just going down a quarter inch or so may pop it loose. I mean it's already wiggling around so it may not take much.
Posted
I fail to see how that fancy HK buffer tube that's $200 is any different than a $30 mil spec one. What am I missing?


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Posted

I fail to see how that fancy HK buffer tube that's $200 is any different than a $30 mil spec one. What am I missing?


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$170.00 worth of good taste apparently. 

 

 

 

 

Is he kidding, is he serious, who knows??? :panic:  :panic:  :panic:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

J/K :hat:

  • Like 1
Posted
The second photo looks to me as if you can see the pin in the trough at the bottom of the buffer tube. It appears to me there is enough space that you could with a lot of care and determination get a very small cutting tool on a Dremel up in there and cut the pin and then work it out. I could be wrong about the photo. There also appears to be some gab between the buffer tube and the adjustable polymer stock. I would also try to compress this stock slightly to see if the pin will push out enough to get a bite on it and work it out.
  • Like 1
Posted

As it is in cocked like it is, your are screwed.

 

The second photo looks to me as if you can see the pin in the trough at the bottom of the buffer tube. It appears to me there is enough space that you could with a lot of care and determination get a very small cutting tool on a Dremel up in there and cut the pin and then work it out. I could be wrong about the photo. There also appears to be some gab between the buffer tube and the adjustable polymer stock. I would also try to compress this stock slightly to see if the pin will push out enough to get a bite on it and work it out.

This is doable.

Posted (edited)
In the second pic... is that the roll pin I see exposed in the buffer tube? If so, can you get some narrow needle nosed pliers on it and wiggle/push it out a little?

Withe the cost of that buffer, I understand not wanting to mangle it. Edited by Wingshooter
  • Like 1
Posted
Warm the stock up on the blind side with a heat gun not so much that you melt it just soften it then with a punch and hammer drive the pin through the plastic may have to alternate between heating and driveing unless you have extra set of hands it will work just take your time and go slowly
  • Like 1
Posted

Warm the stock up on the blind side with a heat gun not so much that you melt it just soften it then with a punch and hammer drive the pin through the plastic may have to alternate between heating and driveing unless you have extra set of hands it will work just take your time and go slowly

 

 

I like that idea, alternately a soldering iron would probably heat things up enough to get moving I would think, would be a lot more precise and if I'm picking up what D is putting down, a vise, some needle nose to work the pin from the accessible area, and you might not even need 3 hands to do it. :up:

  • Like 1

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