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gonna start to reload


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Posted

some 9mm and was removing the primer from some cases that I bought here from an indoor range, when I came across some Winchester that seemed more difficult to remove, I took notice that those cases have like a crimp ring in them?  If that is the case does that crimp ring need to be removed before installing a new primer or will a primer fit with no problem.  But I had plans of using small rifle primer during the reload process so with the ring present do I need to change my plans on what primer needs to be used?  Thanks in advance for any info provided to solve the issue.

 

Ron

Posted
If a true military crimp is in place, it'll have to removed before re-priming, regardless of primer to be used.
  • Like 1
Posted

Yep, crimp needs to be removed. Mostly crimps is found on military surplus or contract over runs.

There are a couple of different ways to remove the crimp, all are a pain in the butt.

Posted

it got to go before you can seat the new primer.  there are many ways to do it and it does take time.  don't over do it and make the primer hole to big.  if you do it will not hold the primer in.  do a search on the web for the different ways to do it.  pick the one that you like. dillon, lyman, lee, and rcbs have hand and drill mounted models.  

Posted
I picked up a small hand deburring tool that works well on winchester brass or any other crimped brass.

Just after a few dozen my hand cramps, I just trust doing it by hand than with a drill.

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Posted

I like the idea of putting the material back instead of cutting it away. RCBS has a swaging tool that goes in your press that's nice [ got one, used it for a long time]. Dillon makes a bench mounted tool that really works well. But it is a bit pricey.

Posted
I have never found the need to remove crimp on pistol brass. Never had an issue with seating the primer either, can feel it is a tighter fit but have never had a primer not fully seat - 9mm and .45acp.

However, the correct way as stated ii ss get rid of the crimp.

Rifle brass is a different story, remove the crimp every time.
Posted
I wasn't sure that some would have the crimp, I make my own 300blk out of 556 and have to do the same thing. I have been using the deburring tool that is motor driven to get it done, I may not use these there were only a few out of the bag of 500. However that does bring up another question, I have been doing some 45acp now for a while, and is doing the 9mm basically the same as doing the 45? Thanks for info.

Ron
Posted
what I should have asked in the above comments is , when it comes to 9mm brass, is brass, brass, brass or is there a significant difference between makers that I should look for indicators, and not use some?
Thanks
Posted

For 9mm, or most any straight wall cartridges most any brass is OK.  The only thing to look out for is berdan primed, steel, and maybe nickel cases, otherwise they are all pretty much the same.  At least that has been my experience, but I don't compete so maybe some competition guys can chime in on that side of things.

Posted
For me Brass is Brass, with the exception of mil crimped primer pockets. I don't presort them, just go by feel on the press and when I run across them I toss them in the scrap bucket.

I load nickel cases as dummy rounds for practice in order to have the weight and feel of a full magazine for reload and dry fire practice. I only shoot reloads, and for safety reasons I will not load nickel cases being as they are strictly dead rounds used for muscle memory drills
Posted

Nickel is reloadable - it is brass with nickel plating. The nickel plating may become brittle and flake off after a few reloads though.

Posted

What is the issue with the nickel cases, are they not reloadable?

They reload fine. I've never had a problem with nickel.

Posted
Well ok them appreciate all the info and look forward to getting started, ill be back in a few with more questions gotta eat lunch
Posted

They reload fine. I've never had a problem with nickel.

plus one.  they reload just as good as brass.  they last just as long too. 

Posted

Nickel cases are reloadable, but they are harder than brass and may flake.  I don't reload enough nickel cases to of had a problem with them but others have had flakes get imbedded inside the die scratching other cases and some have said that nickel wears their cutters when they trim them.  While it may be isolated incidents, I have plenty of brass cases to take chances with too many nickel ones.

Posted

How often have some of you found that you have had to trim 9mm shells either brass or plated brass?

For pistol, I have never trimmed them but I also don't crimp them much; just take the bell out.  If you want to crimp, then having all your cases the same length gives a more consistent crimp, specially if using a seat/crimp die.  Again, I don't compete so having an inconsistent crimp makes little difference.

Posted

I use a 45 degree chamfering tool that I bought from the hardware store for like $3 to remove crimps. It bells it a little as well making priming a little easier. It does not hurt anything either.

 

 

Make sure you are cleaning any brass that has hit the ground, even indoor ranges. All it takes is one piece of sand to put a burr inside the die.

Posted
For the record, 9mm isn't straight walled. It's tapered. You'll be rewarded by separating by headstamp, 9mm is a special creature compared to other service calibers.
Posted
I am going to run them through the stainless wet tumbler when done depriming them, that should have them all looking good afterwards, I did 500 45acp the same way look brand new
Posted
I also picked up a set of dies today Omega got the other set that was for sale in the area, these are the RCBS 3 die Carb set so I need to do a little reading up on these and find out what they are all about but would like to hear the pros and cons from Y'all.

Thanks
  • Like 1

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