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Sheared off zerk fitting


Lumber_Jack

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Posted (edited)

So I got these upper control arms used and the guy shipped it with the zerks still installed and one broke in shipping. I can drill it out and retap but has anyone had success with the ez-out type removers?

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Edited by Lumber_Jack
Posted

They're hit and miss on success. If it isn't galled or corroded in place badly, an ez out will probably get it. The downside is that if you break an ez out off in there, they're really hard and don't drill out very well.

Posted

Slow with high torque works better than high speed, I broke a couple due to the drill I used.  But they work pretty good as long as its not too rusted and by the pic it doesn't look it.

Posted (edited)

Should work really good on this. Do it manually nice and slow.

Edited by bigun
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I you can find them, left handed drill bits work great. Most times the bit itself will back it out but if not, you still have the hole for the ez-out.

 

The only places I've ever found them at were small, independent hardware stores and online.

 

 

I just checked online and supposedly, Northern Tools have them.

Edited by xsubsailor
  • Like 2
Posted
These control arms are only like 6 months old. The coating is pretty tacky so that may pose an issue. I will definitely use some penetrating oil first. If al else fails I'll drill it out and use the next size up zerk. It's just a hole for grease into the bushings. The bushings are serviceable too so it's not a deal breaker. The seller is refunding $35 for the trouble so I think it's fair
Posted
If you are capable of drilling it out, then drill the center of the grease fitting to the next size up (ease out). Removing at least some of the material from the center of the fitting will let it collapse some, loosening the thread tension. Just be extra careful to go slow and easy so as to not force the fitting in deeper/tighter.
This is where left handed drill bits are worth their weight in gold.
  • Like 1
Posted
Hmmm, looking at the picture; are the bushings easily removed? If so, the hole is obviously through, I'm betting they tapped it all the way through as well. It is possible (unlikely but possible) that drilling into the zerk will thread it all the way through and falling out the inside. Then you could clean up everything and reassemble. Probably not, but something to study before you start.
Posted

How many TGO-ers under 25 knew what zerk was until LJ made his post?

 

I'm 45 yrs old and had never heard a grease fitting called a zerk until now and neither has my spell-checker, LOL.

Posted

These control arms are only like 6 months old. The coating is pretty tacky so that may pose an issue. I will definitely use some penetrating oil first. If al else fails I'll drill it out and use the next size up zerk. It's just a hole for grease into the bushings. The bushings are serviceable too so it's not a deal breaker. The seller is refunding $35 for the trouble so I think it's fair

Actually that may help since the zirk didn't have time to rust.  The easy outs that Lowes carries will do it pretty easy.

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_280440-41877-8520P_1z0wcjb__?productId=3030140&pl=1 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hmmm, looking at the picture; are the bushings easily removed? If so, the hole is obviously through, I'm betting they tapped it all the way through as well. It is possible (unlikely but possible) that drilling into the zerk will thread it all the way through and falling out the inside. Then you could clean up everything and reassemble. Probably not, but something to study before you start.


The bushings are two piece with a metal sleeve. Just gotta punch out the sleeve and they will come out. Taking them apart will aid in removal regardless so I'll see what happens
Posted

I'd use what Omega posted, clean it out then shoot it with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few hours cause the grease isn't going to be on the threads you need to be slick. 

Posted

Ive always had really good luck with heli coil kits. Ive had to use them several times on atvs and every single attempt has been successful. I even heli coiled an aluminum head on an Arctic Cat dvx 400 sport atv, where the cam cap bolted in to the head, and it held great, those motors rev to the moon too. They are kinda costly at around $50, but come with everything you need, drill bit, tap, threads, all of it. Good luck.

Posted

I've removed more broken fasteners than I care to try and remember in my line of work. That will come out fine with a screw extractor, no need to start drilling things. Grease fittings are soft metal and low torque, so the spiral extractors will bite and spin it right out. For most situations like this I prefer the short extractors, I think Lowes carries them under the Irwin brand, who makes them for Snap On. I don't know if they stock one small enough for that fitting, but even a regular length extractor should work. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I've removed more broken fasteners than I care to try and remember in my line of work. That will come out fine with a screw extractor, no need to start drilling things. Grease fittings are soft metal and low torque, so the spiral extractors will bite and spin it right out. For most situations like this I prefer the short extractors, I think Lowes carries them under the Irwin brand, who makes them for Snap On. I don't know if they stock one small enough for that fitting, but even a regular length extractor should work.


What he said. Funny to see this tonight i had to do about 20 of these today on the portal crane at work
Posted

We always called them zerk fittings or [Oh s*#t fittings] if you snapped one off. But you were  going to have to drill it out to the next easy out size and then after getting the zerk fitting out having to soak it in cleaning solution and blow all the shavings out.

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