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6.7 Cummins


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Hey ya'll, since Ive been trying to sell my 'Stang I have been looking into a few truck deals around Clarksville and Nashville, found one that I really like but I am a little uneasy about it.

It's a 2008 Dodge Ram Pickup 3500 SLT, about 168K on it - but it has the 6.7 Cummins in it.

I have ONLY heard bad things about it, I dont know jack squat about diesels unless theyre in a HMMWV and even then I barely know what is going on. I heard that removing its emissions equipment will help alleviate some of the problems.

Has anyone had a 6.7L Cummins and if so what other problems (and solutions) have you had? I dont want to get this truck then end up paying the price of a Lambo worth in maintenance.

Any things I should really pay attention to or anything I should learn before owning a diesel? For what it is worth I am treating this like equipment, Im not lifting it or throwing stacks on it. Just using it for hauling...and occassionally high kinetic operations against hybrids.
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Ok first for all info go to cumminsforum.com that is one of the best Cummins specific sites out there. Second what have you heard that is bad? There were problems in the 06-07 years and some ongoing automatic trans problems. Your going to need to find the actual build numbers on the truck especially exactly which trans is in it. As far as removing emissions stuff I would think that would cause problems and not fix them. Mine is an 04.5 so I've never delt with emissions. You want to check the engine for blowback and oil coming out drain tube. I can't stress enough researching the cumminsforum there is a specific spot for that year and it will tell you all you need to know and then some. These trucks can be either the greatest one you have ever owned or the biggest nightmare. Mine has been the best, tons of power does everything I want well. I got lucky and found a six speed manual 4x4 after looking for a couple months. These trucks can go hundreds of thousands of miles with just routine maintenance if cared for properly. Also know everything does cost about twice as much on a diesel. My oil changes are about $70 and I get the better filters you can't get at autozone. I also do all my own work so that helps. These trucks are a very much love it or hate it kind of thing. My neighbor has an 08 4x4 with the 6.7 and loves his. 160k+ miles and no problems.
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Ok first for all info go to cumminsforum.com that is one of the best Cummins specific sites out there. Second what have you heard that is bad? There were problems in the 06-07 years and some ongoing automatic trans problems. Your going to need to find the actual build numbers on the truck especially exactly which trans is in it. As far as removing emissions stuff I would think that would cause problems and not fix them. Mine is an 04.5 so I've never delt with emissions. You want to check the engine for blowback and oil coming out drain tube. I can't stress enough researching the cumminsforum there is a specific spot for that year and it will tell you all you need to know and then some. These trucks can be either the greatest one you have ever owned or the biggest nightmare. Mine has been the best, tons of power does everything I want well. I got lucky and found a six speed manual 4x4 after looking for a couple months. These trucks can go hundreds of thousands of miles with just routine maintenance if cared for properly. Also know everything does cost about twice as much on a diesel. My oil changes are about $70 and I get the better filters you can't get at autozone. I also do all my own work so that helps. These trucks are a very much love it or hate it kind of thing. My neighbor has an 08 4x4 with the 6.7 and loves his. 160k+ miles and no problems.

This. I learned that the hard way.

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I currently own a Ram with the 5.9 Cummins and had one previous to it.

 

Imagine waking up one morning and it's well below zero, not intending on going anywhere until the weather warms some, and you didn't have any fuel additives in the system. Then you receive a semi-emergency call and have to wonder if your diesel truck will start, as the block heater was not plugged it.

 

You go out and turn on your ignition and wait for the "wait to start" light to extinguish as your glow plugs heat up. You hear the fuel pump making noises you never heard before?

 

The wait to start light goes out and you start cranking, and cranking, and cranking and nothing. You wait a few days until the weather warms up and heat up the engine with a kerosene blower heater in case there's any gelled diesel fuel left. You crank, and crank and crank until the dual batteries are dead.

 

You call a tow truck and have your "out of warranty" Dodge Ram diesel truck towed to the fix it place. Later that day you receive a call from "the fix my truck" place and the conversation goes like this...

 

Me: Hello

 

Fix it up guy: Is this Dennis?

 

Me: Yes it is.

 

Fix it up guy: We diagnosed the problem with your diesel engine.

 

Me: Oh good, how much and when will it be ready?

 

Fix it up guy: Are you sitting down?

 

Me: No, why?

 

Fix it up guy: Do you have a heart defibrillator near by?

 

Me: No I don't, what are you talking about?

 

Fix it up guy: It's your fuel injector pump that's bad!!!

 

Me: Well, O.K. so....?

 

Fix it up guy: Please take two Bayer aspirins, wait an hour and call me back while your comfortably seated.

 

Me: Are you serious?

 

Fix it up guy: Yes I am, good bye...

 

Me: An hour later... Hello Mr. Fix it Up Guy, I'm ready, give it to me straight.

 

Fix it up guy: $3.572.00 installed  :stunned:

 

Moral of the story. In cold weather diesel fuel additive is proper maintenance. Gel is for J-E-L-L-O.

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Took a knee and drank water then proceeded to educate myself, thank you all for the first-hand sources.

 

I checked the VIN on the truck I am going to buy against the recall webpage that Dodge has set up - seems they get 4/5 done with the 5th being something about the airbag deployment.

 

I do know that what I make up for in mpg is going quickly out the door on oil changes, air filters and fuel injector pumps or turbos at the worst.

 

This will be a fun experience nonetheless.

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Hey ya'll, since Ive been trying to sell my 'Stang I have been looking into a few truck deals around Clarksville and Nashville, found one that I really like but I am a little uneasy about it.

It's a 2008 Dodge Ram Pickup 3500 SLT, about 168K on it - but it has the 6.7 Cummins in it.

I have ONLY heard bad things about it, I dont know jack squat about diesels unless theyre in a HMMWV and even then I barely know what is going on. I heard that removing its emissions equipment will help alleviate some of the problems.

Has anyone had a 6.7L Cummins and if so what other problems (and solutions) have you had? I dont want to get this truck then end up paying the price of a Lambo worth in maintenance.

Any things I should really pay attention to or anything I should learn before owning a diesel? For what it is worth I am treating this like equipment, Im not lifting it or throwing stacks on it. Just using it for hauling...and occassionally high kinetic operations against hybrids.

You know what that stands for right?

Since were talking about maintenance...

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I have a 2011 2500 with the Cummins 6.7. There have been some issues with the pre- DEF 6.7 associated with the DPF emission equipment. Good thing is you can buy tuners that allow the truck to run with that stuff off. It does make a nice difference ( so I have heard).

Mine has been great but I only have about 34k miles on it. Only use it to pull the 5'er and haul materials on the weekends.
It's strong truck. Not as quick off the line as the Duramax and whatever Ford is using these days but it's straight 6 vs their v8s. Will pass them all day long pulling loads up steep roads.
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I currently own a Ram with the 5.9 Cummins and had one previous to it.

Imagine waking up one morning and it's well below zero, not intending on going anywhere until the weather warms some, and you didn't have any fuel additives in the system. Then you receive a semi-emergency call and have to wonder if your diesel truck will start, as the block heater was not plugged it.

You go out and turn on your ignition and wait for the "wait to start" light to extinguish as your glow plugs heat up. You hear the fuel pump making noises you never heard before?

The wait to start light goes out and you start cranking, and cranking, and cranking and nothing. You wait a few days until the weather warms up and heat up the engine with a kerosene blower heater in case there's any gelled diesel fuel left. You crank, and crank and crank until the dual batteries are dead.

You call a tow truck and have your "out of warranty" Dodge Ram diesel truck towed to the fix it place. Later that day you receive a call from "the fix my truck" place and the conversation goes like this...

Me: Hello

Fix it up guy: Is this Dennis?

Me: Yes it is.

Fix it up guy: We diagnosed the problem with your diesel engine.

Me: Oh good, how much and when will it be ready?

Fix it up guy: Are you sitting down?

Me: No, why?

Fix it up guy: Do you have a heart defibrillator near by?

Me: No I don't, what are you talking about?

Fix it up guy: It's your fuel injector pump that's bad!!!

Me: Well, O.K. so....?

Fix it up guy: Please take two Bayer aspirins, wait an hour and call me back while your comfortably seated.

Me: Are you serious?

Fix it up guy: Yes I am, good bye...

Me: An hour later... Hello Mr. Fix it Up Guy, I'm ready, give it to me straight.

Fix it up guy: $3.572.00 installed :stunned:

Moral of the story. In cold weather diesel fuel additive is proper maintenance. Gel is for J-E-L-L-O.

I mean no offense by this but first Dodge trucks made after 03 do not have a glow plug. Next the chance of having fuel gel in Tennessee is pretty slim, maybe if the truck sat for a while or you got fuel from a place that was still using summer blend. That shouldn't happen but I guess it is a possibility. Last whoever replaced your injector pump ripped you a new one. A brand new Bosch unit, which is the OEM brand, is only $800. To the OP this is a very good example of being aware of what is actually on the truck, how it works and how to fix it. There is only one shop in middle Tennessee I would use and that's Cedar City Diesel in Lebenon and they ain't cheep but they won't rip you off either. Now as for me I will do almost all my own work. If you are not at all mechanically inclined, and will not have the money to fix things if they break then any diesel is not for you. If I could not do at least some of my own work I promise you I would drive a Toyota truck.
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Also there is a huge recall right now. Dodge is even being forced to buy back some of these trucks. You might be able to get a heck of a deal on one real soon. The major parts of the recall are airbags and tie rod ends. They both must be fixed on the dealers dime but it might make a great buyers market because of people being driven to another brand.
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Also there is a huge recall right now. Dodge is even being forced to buy back some of these trucks. You might be able to get a heck of a deal on one real soon. The major parts of the recall are airbags and tie rod ends. They both must be fixed on the dealers dime but it might make a great buyers market because of people being driven to another brand.


Buying back ?
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I heard it was just the gas ones for now. A few of our staff officers are having theirs bought back - guess Chrysler and Dodge are just paying everyone off to avoid a bunch of crap.

Ill have to drive down to Nashville and pick their brains - they said it wont pass MARTA so I have a feeling they have the DPF/EGR deletes - which i was going to do anyway.

I will grab one of my diesel mechanic buddies to go down there with me, Im sure the salesmen dont know crap about engines.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
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I heard it was just the gas ones for now. A few of our staff officers are having theirs bought back - guess Chrysler and Dodge are just paying everyone off to avoid a bunch of crap.

Ill have to drive down to Nashville and pick their brains - they said it wont pass MARTA so I have a feeling they have the DPF/EGR deletes - which i was going to do anyway.

I will grab one of my diesel mechanic buddies to go down there with me, Im sure the salesmen dont know crap about engines.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

It's only certain gas models and all diesel. Much of this has to do with faulty tie rod ends. If they let go you loose all steering. It is on their heavy duty steering which is all diesels.
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I heard it was just the gas ones for now. A few of our staff officers are having theirs bought back - guess Chrysler and Dodge are just paying everyone off to avoid a bunch of crap.

Ill have to drive down to Nashville and pick their brains - they said it wont pass MARTA so I have a feeling they have the DPF/EGR deletes - which i was going to do anyway.

I will grab one of my diesel mechanic buddies to go down there with me, Im sure the salesmen dont know crap about engines.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

I think that MARTA applies to recent years.

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You need to check blow by, which is pressure coming out oil fill hole. Take the cap off and set it upside down over hole if it will blow it off or you just feel a lot of air coming out engine is worn. Oil leaking out of drain hose under motor, a little on it is normal but soaked or you can see where it's been coming out a lot is bad. Check oil and the level, diesel fuel in oil is bad. Also I like to buy stock old man trucks. If it has a delete it probably had a tune and other stuff which means it could be hot rodded. That's bad on a stock trans. Remember these trucks come with around 700 torque at the engine. The stock trans is only designed to hold that much. I don't want to talk you out of it I just want you to be well informed because repairs your not ready for are very pricey on these trucks.
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I was wrong:

 

If you've moved to a TN county that requires emissions inspections, you'll need to have it tested before you register it. An emissions certificate is required for vehicle registration.

Required counties and completion instructions are found below.

Inspection Requirements and Exemptions Inspection Requirements

The following counties require emissions checks on qualifying vehicles:

  • Hamilton.
  • Davidson.
  • Rutherford.
  • Sumner.
  • Williamson.
  • Wilson.

Your vehicle qualifies for inspection within those counties if it is:

  • Model year 1975 and newer.
  • Powered by gasoline or diesel.
    AND
  • Weighs 10,500 lbs. or under.

Emissions tests are valid for 90 days.

Edited by SWJewellTN
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I was wrong:

 

If you've moved to a TN county that requires emissions inspections, you'll need to have it tested before you register it. An emissions certificate is required for vehicle registration.

Required counties and completion instructions are found below.

Inspection Requirements and Exemptions Inspection Requirements

The following counties require emissions checks on qualifying vehicles:

  • Hamilton.
  • Davidson.
  • Rutherford.
  • Sumner.
  • Williamson.
  • Wilson.

Your vehicle qualifies for inspection within those counties if it is:

  • Model year 1975 and newer.
  • Powered by gasoline or diesel.
    AND
  • Weighs 10,500 lbs. or under.

Emissions tests are valid for 90 days.

Good copy. I am in Montgomery County right now - I did some research on MARTA yesterday, wasn't sure if MC was part of it or not seeing as I did not see them. Thanks for clearing that up.

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