My Expedition Trailer project

[Caster]

I wanted an enclosed trailer that was offroad capable.  God knows you ain't gettin' nowhere with a standard trailer once you leave the pavement.

 

 

 

Life started with some 1/4 thick wall steel tubing and some spindles I got from Ebay.  I wanted a 6 lug pattern so I can run a 265-70-17 on Toyota wheels.  This way I have interchangeability with my FJ.  Carry a spare for the trailer plus the one on the FJ and I have two spares for either.  

 

Check out the trash barrel and plywood I have for a work bench.  Before anyone criticizes my shoddy workmanship, consider I have precisely SQUAT to work with here.  I Lincoln stick welder, a right angle grinder and cut off wheels.  That's about it other than a hammer and a give 'em hell attitude.  :rofl:

 

 

 

 

 

Then I framed up the trailer using 1/8" thick square and rectangle tubing.  3" square and 2x5" rectangle.  I used a set of Ford F150 leaf springs with the overload leaves removed.  Once the trailer is done I have made some perches and will weld them in for a set of Monroe shocks.

I also drilled & cross drilled the shackle bolts for grease fittings so I can grease those joints.  I turned some cold rolled steel in my lathe and made inserts that go through the square tubing for the bolts and welded them in, so the bolts aren't riding in just the tubing, but have a full length surface to bear on.  They're exponentially stronger that way and will prevent wear long as I keep them greased.  

 

 

 

 

Edited June 24, 2015 by Caster

[Caster]

I'm not interested in ever doing repairs on this thing SO, I used 1/8" tread plate to make scab plates over critical joints.  I welded everything together first, ground it smooth and welded plates over the joints.

 

 

 

 

[Caster]

My welding ain't so good.  I have very light sensitive eyes and cannot watch my puddle like I need to.  SO, I weld everything twice with the second weld penetrating the first.

 

Decided to go with a pintle and lunette instead of a ball to give me more articulation.

 

 

 

 

Used 2x2x 1/8" angle to make the body skeleton.  Then used the aluminum roof from a M151A2 military jeep as a roof.  I also got me some mud grip 265-70-17's and some aluminum toyota wheels.  They aren't an exact match to my FJ but they're close.

 

 

 

 

If you notice the door on the tongue, there's going to be a control panel in there to handle electrical.  I'll likely have this thing lit up like a christmas tree.  Redneck and all, I do love me some lights.  

Edited June 24, 2015 by Caster

[Caster]

Future plans are a tool box for the tongue.....but them things are EXPENSIVE!!  Gotta box it in and I will probably buy a door for an RV for the back.  They make some very neat frame/door units for tear drop campers or storage access doors for large RV's.  

 

This should handle enough gear for me and the woman to get the hell outta here in a hurry or just enjoy a weekend at the lake.  

 

 

 

The whole thing will get coated with bedliner when it's done.  Then I'll paint the roof top white to shed heat.  

Edited June 24, 2015 by Caster

[peejman]

Looks good to me.  Key an eye on balance.  If you put a tool box on the tongue, it looks like it'll be quite nose heavy.

[Trekbike]

Pretty cool project you got going there!   Keep the pictures coming.

 

I had to grin when I saw the rear leaf spring brackets.   That's the same one's we used on our cars to jack up the rear end back in the late 70's / early 80's.   Add that to the Cherry Bomb mufflers and that brings back fond memories...  :)

[hipower]

I see only one thing I'd do any different. Make it a little bigger.

 

Yeah, peejman's right. It will be nose heavy and a beast to lift. More length will help offset the nose weight when you load.

 

Otherwise, it's fine.

Edited June 24, 2015 by hipower

[LagerHead]

Looks like you're off to a pretty good start. Can't wait to see the finished product.

[monkeylizard]

You need to weld a bottle opener on there somewhere.

[Caster]

HiPower, the whole size of the trailer was designed around that top.  That's the reason for the size.  

 

Peejman, the balance of it "Right Now" is such that I can lift the trailer with two fingers.  I've kept that VERY much in mind.  I'm banking on that tool box full of gear to MAKE it tongue heavy.  You obviously don't want lots of tongue weight but it does need more up front so the lunette doesn't bounce going down the road.  I will adjust the actual payload in the trailer accordingly.  

[Caster]

You need to weld a bottle opener on there somewhere.

 

 

I am SERIOUSLY considering a water tank in the space between the axle and frame.  I want the trailer finished first so I will know the final ride height and can get my shocks in place.  But I figure I can get a 20-25 gallon square tank in there with steel bands like a gas tank.  Then plumb it to trapdoor with a filler neck and use a solar powered 12v pump to get it out.  The tool box up front will house a deep cycle marine battery and I will make a bracket for a solar panel on the roof.  

 

Bottle opener will be in the tool box if you need it.   :up:

Edited June 24, 2015 by Caster

[nightrunner]

A trailer must have a front weight bias or it will sway going down the road. Heavy bias on the front is not bad, doesn't have to be excessive.

[Caster]

Yep. I'm keeping it as balanced as I can for now because I known the toolbox will be heavy. Plus I don't know how the gear will balance out. Ideally, I want just heavy enough I have to grunt to set it on the pintle.

[hipower]

HiPower, the whole size of the trailer was designed around that top.  That's the reason for the size.  

 

Peejman, the balance of it "Right Now" is such that I can lift the trailer with two fingers.  I've kept that VERY much in mind.  I'm banking on that tool box full of gear to MAKE it tongue heavy.  You obviously don't want lots of tongue weight but it does need more up front so the lunette doesn't bounce going down the road.  I will adjust the actual payload in the trailer accordingly.  

 

I figured that was the case when I saw the pic. but don't think I'm being critical. Far from it. You are working with your ideas in mind. Mine would be somewhat different.

[Caster]

Actually....I'm working with what is FREE.  In my mind, that's always the best design.  So far, I have paid for the welding rods, spindles, hubs, leaf springs and a few nuts & bolts.  I have a good buddy who does fab work all over middle TN.  All the steel so far has been drops and scraps he has brought me.  Thats the reason everything is built so heavy.  It's worked out well too, welding 1/8" thick stuff is a JOY.  No fear of burning through and I can really get a good solid weld.  

[peejman]

A trailer must have a front weight bias or it will sway going down the road. Heavy bias on the front is not bad, doesn't have to be excessive.

 

 

Yep. I'm keeping it as balanced as I can for now because I known the toolbox will be heavy. Plus I don't know how the gear will balance out. Ideally, I want just heavy enough I have to grunt to set it on the pintle.

 

 

Agreed.  Just thinking of the possibility of having to disconnect it and move it around whilst expeditioning. 

[Johnny Rotten]

Your welds look pretty good for a multi pass stick weld.. 

BTW: Mad Maxx just called and they want their trailer back..

[Caster]

I use a 3/32 6011 rod to start and go over it with a 1/8 6011 rod.  70 amp to start and kick it to 90 for final welds.  Really makes all traces of my first weld disappear AND makes sure all the voids and missed spots are gone.  

Edited June 24, 2015 by Caster

[Ron Padilla]

having been a welder one thing you want to keep in mind is your welds, the root weld should be the deepest penetrating weld with the caps welds to top it off, if there is lack of fusion in the root pass the weld could fail, be particularly careful where the hitch goes, and make sure you do grind down to bare metal before all welds to ensure good joining of the metals. What is best to do is take 2 pieces of metal identical to what you are welding and practice by turning up the heat till you burn through then back off, and remember the heat will travel along the metal as you go along with the weld joint. Especially with a trailer that might pulled down the road, if it brakes lose you are liable for the damage it could cause. just me 2 cents enjoy your build but be safe.

[Ron Padilla]

having reread your post I would go with 1/8 root pass as well you really never want to go to small in fear of lack of fusion, like I said above the root pass is the most important pass.

[Caster]

I was told by several people I got too carried away with my pintle.

 

I used this because it was give to me 

 

 

I used 3x3x1/8" tubing for the tongue.  I cut enough out the top and bottom of the tubing to beat this thing in with a hammer.  Then tack welded it.  Then I drilled both sides to open up those holes and drove two pieces of 1/2" coldrolled in there, beat them fuggers like a rivet, welded them, ground it smooth and then welded all the way around the thing.  THEN, I used 1/8" thick steel tread plate and made two scabs like shown on my other joints.  They extend back onto the tongue about 8 inches, top and bottom.  I welded them to the tongue and while they were hot I beat them down to the contour of the angle leading up to the loop.  THEN, I welded them in solid and even though it gave me a migraine I watched the puddle on the lunette.  I was burning DEEP into it.  I feel confident it will handle what I throw at it.  

[hipower]

Buddy, I am a very firm believer in using what you have available for any project! Anything that doesn't cost you money is great.

 

Use everything like that I can, when working on things around here.

 

One of my favorites is using old doors to make wall shelves.

[Caster]

Buddy, I am a very firm believer in using what you have available for any project! Anything that doesn't cost you money is great.

 

Use everything like that I can, when working on things around here.

 

One of my favorites is using old doors to make wall shelves.

HA!!  The back window in the shop here at the tire store is an old glass storm door hung sideways.  Tilt it up and prop it open in the summer, let it down in the winter.  Save money on crap like that.......more money for powder, primers & bullets!!!!!!!!!!!

[Mark A]

I love it! I had a off road trailer made from the back 1/2 of a CJ 5 that I drug all over tellico etc... The only thing I didn't like about it at first was the axle was a bit narrower than what ended up on the YJ but a plasma cutter and welder soon fixed that. Having the wheels on the trailer track exactly where the jeep went reduced the amount of times the trailer got hung up.

 

It looks like you have really thought it out. Some small things I changed on mine over time: I put a full 7 bladed hook up on it. That let it match what I had on my tow vehicle in case I wanted to pull it around town. The 7 blade also gave me a charging circuit back to the trailer and allowed me to mount a couple of fog lights on the back for seeing at night when backing up. I put a 3 way rocker on those lights so I could use them when we were setting up camp or if we were working on a broken down jeep out on the trail. I also put a couple of really small rock runner lights on the side of the frame pointing out and down at about a 45* to illuminate the trail when running at night.

 

I don't think you overdid the pintle at all. I had a couple of friends who rednecked their off road trailers and both of them pulled their pintle right off the frame on harder trails. It is a real Bi*** trying to get a trailer with a damaged hitch out of the woods.

 

Seems like I remember you already did a solar project or 2 so you probably have a good idea of what you need. I use 2 of these on my spare batteries:http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-7-Amp-Charge-Controller/dp/B0006JO0XI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1435186567&sr=8-7&keywords=sunforce

 

One of them is hooked up to the charging system of the tow vehicle and the other has a quick disconnect to plug into a solar panel. That way I can use either as a charging source and I don't worry about the battery getting overcharged.

 

I can't wait to see the end result, Mark

[Caster]

Mark you brought up another good point. I can't beleive I actually thought of it already. Usually Im pretty slow.

I cut the axle so that from outside to outside of the TIRES not the hubs or wheels, measure right at an inch less than my FJ. If my FJ will fit, the trailer HAS to. The ride height is level and the roof is about three inches shorter than my luggage rack on the Toyota. I kept it as big as I could and still be in the shadow of the intended pull vehicle.