Only one barrel firing

[quedz]

I have an "old" (1985) .12g Stevens double that has been in the safe for years. Took it out recently to shoot and found that only one barrel would fire. Any input on where to start to correct this would be appreciated.

hughd

[Dolomite_supafly]

Hose the action down with WD-40. Make sure to really soak the inside of the action with it. Let it set for 10-15 minutes then use high pressure air, from a compressor and not one of those cans, and blow out the receiver. Repeat 2-3 times.

 

Most guns that quit working do so because of crud, dirt or debris inside the working parts. The best, and easiest, way to clean most guns is with WD-40.

 

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is more like a mild solvent and helps break down dried out oils and greases in most older and neglected guns.

[JAB]

Dolomite is probably right but I will mention another possibility based on a problem I had.

 

I inherited an old Stevens double from my late, maternal grandfather.  It, too, would only fire one barrel.  I pulled the buttstock so I could get to the action and found that there is a sort of 'Y' shaped piece that cocks both the internal hammers when the gun is opened.  For some, strange reason that piece - which was mounted on a bar - had slid to the left and so was not catching the right hammer.  I slid it back and that worked for a few shots then went right back to not firing the right barrel.  I took it apart, again, and of course found that the 'Y' shaped cocking piece had slid to the left, again.

 

This gun is not part of my HD plan or anything of the sort.  For that reason, I didn't really want to spend a lot of money having it repaired.  That said, it is fun to shoot (when both barrels work) so I wanted to try and come up with some way to fix it.  Ultimately, I ended up sliding a spent .22 short casing over the right limb of the 'Y' and sort of crimping it into place with a pair of needle nosed pliers.  The short casing adds just enough length to the right limb of the 'Y' to allow it to cock the right hammer even with the 'Y' sitting to the left of center.  Both barrels have fired every, single time since my jury-rigged solution was put into place.

Edited June 12, 2015 by JAB

[cjohnson44546]

Hose the action down with WD-40. Make sure to really soak the inside of the action with it. Let it set for 10-15 minutes then use high pressure air, from a compressor and not one of those cans, and blow out the receiver. Repeat 2-3 times.

 

Most guns that quit working do so because of crud, dirt or debris inside the working parts. The best, and easiest, way to clean most guns is with WD-40.

 

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is more like a mild solvent and helps break down dried out oils and greases in most older and neglected guns.

  Be careful using too much WD40 .. make sure its very cleaned out otherwise before shooting, as WD40 is flammable.

[cannoncocker]

I have a 1955 vintage Stevens 311A .  This model is well known for weak firing pin springs.  Compare the firing pin indentation on the primer of the shell that fired with shell that did not. 

[79troublehead]

I broke a firing pin in an old double (hammerless) and it wouldn't fire one barrel, but the hammer would fall, giving an audible click.  You clicking?

[gregintenn]

My Browning Citori got to where it wouldn't reliably fire the bottom barrel. A dis assembly and thorough cleaning solved the problem. You'll likely find a youtube video showing how to take your gun apart.

[E4 No More]

Hose the action down with WD-40. Make sure to really soak the inside of the action with it. Let it set for 10-15 minutes then use high pressure air, from a compressor and not one of those cans, and blow out the receiver. Repeat 2-3 times.

 

Most guns that quit working do so because of crud, dirt or debris inside the working parts. The best, and easiest, way to clean most guns is with WD-40.

 

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is more like a mild solvent and helps break down dried out oils and greases in most older and neglected guns.

Oil is a lubricant:

 

WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product was not patented in 1953 to avoid disclosing the details of its composition; the window of opportunity for patenting the product has long since closed.^[4][7] WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

• 50% "aliphatic hydrocarbons". The manufacturer's website specifically claims that this fraction in the current formulation cannot be accurately referred to as Stoddard solvent, a similar mixture of hydrocarbons.^[8]
• <25% petroleum base oil, presumably a mineral oil or light lubricating oil.
• 12-18% low vapor pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon, to reduce the viscosity for use in aerosols. This fraction evaporates during application.
• 2-3% carbon dioxide, presumably as a propellant, is now used instead of liquefied petroleum gas to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability.
• <10% inert ingredients.

[Ted S.]

 

Oil is a lubricant

 

I hate WD-40 as a lubricant; it dries out way too fast. Better for penetrative purposes that actual long term lubrication. It's great for cleaning metal up too. I strongly prefer chain grease or gun oil for lubricating applications.

[quedz]

Thank you all for the input and sorry for the long delay. The WD 40 did the trick Dolomite.