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Posted

So I typed in "Rem Oil" in search and nothing so I guess i'll add a Rem Oil thread to TGO Forum.

Anyway, I use it for cleaning where there's not alot of carbon, I use solvent for barrels or anywhere there's alot of carbon. I don't lube with Rem Oil because it dries after a short time, i've been using Hopps Gun Oil for lub. I saw a video where someone was using wheel bearing grease and realized I have an un-opened 2lb can of Master-pro high temp, litium based, red wheel bearing grease so I put some in a jar and added it to my cleaning box.

Does anyone else use Rem Oil, and what for? I'm always paranoid of getting too much or really anything in the striker channel of my Glock but I also want to make sure it's clean. What is recomended?

Posted
You clean your Glock!?!

Seriously though, I've used Hoppes #9 so long I'm immune to the smell. Unfortunately, my wife isn't.

However, it's a good solvent, but I'll use whatever is handy if it's a reputable product. And Rem Oil is.

But I usually, at least while I still have some, use it as a final clean on parts, then a bit of lithium grease where needed.

But my Glocks, unless they are just so darn dirty you think a car wash is necessary; cleaning solvent as needed, lite (very lite grease on the rails, and wipe everything I can with a silicone cleaning cloth.

Done this since I cleaned my first G22, and no problems.
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

You clean your Glock!?!

Seriously though, I've used Hoppes #9 so long I'm immune to the smell. Unfortunately, my wife isn't.

However, it's a good solvent, but I'll use whatever is handy if it's a reputable product. And Rem Oil is.

But I usually, at least while I still have some, use it as a final clean on parts, then a bit of lithium grease where needed.

But my Glocks, unless they are just so darn dirty you think a car wash is necessary; cleaning solvent as needed, lite (very lite grease on the rails, and wipe everything I can with a silicone cleaning cloth.

Done this since I cleaned my first G22, and no problems.

 

Usually I use solvent on the barrel only of a semi, barrel and cylinder on a revolver, then I clean other parts with Rem Oil. I don't do much to my glock but srcub the inside of the barrel, brush and wipe down everything else, put a light film of Hopps Oil on the slide rails with a Q-Tip and the front of the barrel and that's about it. May start using the grease next time.

Edited by K191145
Posted

Usually I use solvent on the barrel only of a semi, barrel and cylinder on a revolver, then I clean other parts with Rem Oil. I don't do much to my glock but srcub the inside of the barrel, brush and wipe down everything else, put a light film of Hopps Oil on the slide rails with a Q-Tip and the front of the barrel and that's about it. May start using the grease next time.


In spite of my attempts at humor, I stand by my Glock cleaning method. But lithium only on metal contact points.

Wiping cleaned parts with Rem or any light lube, let it dry for a bit, then the silicone cloth wipedown on the barrel and slide interior.
  • Like 1
Posted

In spite of my attempts at humor, I stand by my Glock cleaning method. But lithium only on metal contact points.

Wiping cleaned parts with Rem or any light lube, let it dry for a bit, then the silicone cloth wipedown on the barrel and slide interior.

 

Thanks, I do have a silicone cloth, just used it on the outside of rifle and shotgun barrels and recievers. Rem Oil will dry quickly, that's why I never used it as a lube but it does a decent job at cleaning.

Posted

Seriously though, I've used Hoppes #9 so long I'm immune to the smell. Unfortunately, my wife isn't.

 

 

Hoppes #9 is the cologne of choice for gun nuts!

 

 

Rem OIl is so light you can use it to blow out the crud in the fire control components, but like you said it dries pretty fast. I use it for wiping down all of the outer parts. I use Militec-1 where I need oil to stay and some lithium grease on the rails.

 

A silicone or Sentry Solutinos Tuf-Cloth are great for all externals.

  • Like 1
Posted
I won't bore you with my cleaning methods, but for lube I use 0w20 synthetic motor oil almost exclusively. "Gun oils" are the next biggest racket behind car insurance


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  • Like 4
Posted

Hoppes #9 is the cologne of choice for gun nuts!

 

 

Rem OIl is so light you can use it to blow out the crud in the fire control components, but like you said it dries pretty fast. I use it for wiping down all of the outer parts. I use Militec-1 where I need oil to stay and some lithium grease on the rails.

 

A silicone or Sentry Solutinos Tuf-Cloth are great for all externals.

I use about the same mostly, though I only have a spray can and one small bottle of rem oil left.  I have a bunch of militec-1 though so I try and treat as many of my steel parts as I can with it.  I wipe down my EDC every once in awhile with the tuff cloth since I don't use wet lube on them, only for cleaning purposes.  As for grease, I have a few tubes of different types but never used it on any of my guns and only a couple of times on my rifle's bolt but noticed no difference.  The most use of rem oil was when sharpening my knives with an Arkansas Stone.

Posted
I used to use Rem Oil to lube everything but after my 10/22 problems I realized that it was drying. I use it to wipe down the outside and use Lucas gun oil to lube moving parts.
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I won't bore you with my cleaning methods, but for lube I use 0w20 synthetic motor oil almost exclusively. "Gun oils" are the next biggest racket behind car insurance


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

My nefew was talking about cleaning his Mosins once, I told him to do what the Ruskies probably used to do in WW2. Clean them with gasoline and lube them with motor oil. JK about the gasoline.

Hickok45 cleaned carbon off some parts of a Glock with a Q-Tip dipped in rubbing alcohol, it will dry all the way so it wont leave a residue.

Edited by K191145
Posted

Rem Oil in aerosol for is good for cleaning powder residue out of tight spaces (think Ruger Mark II).  Other than that the whole product family is about useless.

Posted

Rem Oil in aerosol for is good for cleaning powder residue out of tight spaces (think Ruger Mark II).  Other than that the whole product family is about useless.

Exactly why I bought my can, my Rugger was a PITA to disassemble until I got the hang of it.

Posted

I just had an odd occurance, my 870,s action seemed a little tighter than usual so I broke it down, took the trigger group out to look at the action release, re-assymbled every thing and it seemed better, I cleaned it 2 weeks ago after shooting at the range. Well, I have a couple of field loads that I had cut off the top and removed the shot leaving the wad and cup. I loaded one curious to see the firing pin dent in the primer but when I fired it it was a squib, kind of a "puuunk" sound. I have fired shotless shells before and they all shot okay, anyway, I ejected the shell, alot of unburned powder fell out of the action and the wad and cup was lodged in the barrel which I punched out with a rod. The only thing I can see is that because there was no shot and the end of the shell was cut off, there wasn't enough weight and pressure for proper ignition but i've never had that happen before, they have all went bang before.

Posted (edited)

I won't bore you with my cleaning methods, but for lube I use 0w20 synthetic motor oil almost exclusively. "Gun oils" are the next biggest racket behind car insurance


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My sentiments exactly. I've used Mobil 1 in 0W20 to lube all of my auto pistols and AR's for some years now and it is a perfect lube for the purpose. I really like the way it keeps carbon in suspension, and a quart of it will last for years and years.

 

For a solvent I use home made Ed's Red minus the Lanolin, and when something needs blowing out I use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner, although you have to keep it off of plastics.  Nothing cleans the barrel extension of an AR as well or as conveniently as BPC.

 

For cleaning AR barrels I use a foaming bore cleaner called WipeOut.

Edited by EssOne
Posted

yep, is a good cleaning oil.  I use it to spritz and wipe down my rustable blued guns mostly, and sometimes down the barrel to clean, other times CLP for that.  I have not had any trouble with rem oil on wood finishes, but YMMV.  (I don't use it for that, but it does get on the wood some).

Posted

who  cleans a Ruger Mk and to what end?

 

I sort of thought the entire good thing about Rem Oil is that it leaves a coating when it dries and therefore still is good to go when it dries?

 

Oil and grease attract dirt, a dry lube has benefit.

Posted

who  cleans a Ruger Mk and to what end?

 

I sort of thought the entire good thing about Rem Oil is that it leaves a coating when it dries and therefore still is good to go when it dries?

 

Oil and grease attract dirt, a dry lube has benefit.

I do, as I do all my guns that I don't use often.  When I put them back in the safe I clean them and put a generous amount of wet lube on them since I don't know when Ill be at them again.  Rem oil works ok, but it does not stand up to the elements as well as other products I use so it is relegated to my sharpening stone for the small bottle and my spray is saved for fishing reels and any other thing that I don't want to tear down but needs a bit of lube.  I have a multitude of gun lubes available and can't say there is one I go to for any specific purpose, I have even sprayed WD40 on one at the range so not really sold on any one lube, but I do try and use dry lube on my EDC due to the dust and lint that accumulates on them every now and then.

Posted

Two things never a problem   1-Hoppes#9  bbl/wire brush-action wipe down and wipe out all #9       Rem Oil lube whole gun and wipe all oil out.   The key is

wipe all out,and there is still a film left behind and that is all you want.  Twenty five years of problem free shooting with this method from an old school S&W

Armorer whom showed me.

Posted

who  cleans a Ruger Mk and to what end?

 

I sort of thought the entire good thing about Rem Oil is that it leaves a coating when it dries and therefore still is good to go when it dries?

 

Oil and grease attract dirt, a dry lube has benefit.

After a while you get crud in the rifling and it starts to shoot a bit off.  After a while the bolt and trigger bar and other pieces get caked on soot and you can feel it in the action.   After a while, it needs cleaned.  A while depends on what ammo and how much of it -- some is cleaner than others.    Mine is blued, so I clean it also to keep the rust at bay.   It is rare for me to do a full break-down but I do that at least once a year, sometimes twice if shooting a lot.  

 

The dried rem oil is not really very good from my experience.  It protects very, very well against rust, but its too thin and does not last under heavy use.  It might be ok for very light use.

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