home made holsters

[gjohnsoniv]

No, leather can naturally stretch. Don't worry with patterns unless you really just want something to follow. Just mark around your gun about 2"-2.5", wet it, and start working it over the gun.

My point is figuring things out for yourself will teach you more than patterns will. I have a "box of failure" from learning what to do. Edited June 21, 2015 by gjohnsoniv

[Ron Padilla]

leatherworker.net has tons of info and I found JLSleather.net has some info and patterns that he is willing to share he sent one to me and he has a pdf file on working leather..  Thanks for all the info here, Adams leather works has patterns however he does charge for his.

[gregintenn]

Just lay your pistol on a piece of card stock or file folder, and trace the outline with a pencil. Then move these lines outward about 1/4-3/8", and this will be your stitch line. Then, simply draw the holster you want around the pistol shape. If you are making a holster from two pieces, cut the front out, flip it over, and trace it for the back, changing what you want such as the sweat shield.

 

When you have these pieces drawn and cut out to your liking, place them on the leather and trace them as well. Use a punch or fid to make indentations around the stitch line to trace it onto the leather.

 

If the holster works out o.k., Label these patterns and store them in a large envelope in case you ever want to make another holster like it.

[10-Ring]

What thickness of kydex works well?

[BigK]

No, leather can naturally stretch. Don't worry with patterns unless you really just want something to follow. Just mark around your gun about 2"-2.5", wet it, and start working it over the gun.

My point is figuring things out for yourself will teach you more than patterns will. I have a "box of failure" from learning what to do.

 

I've been doing the same, but leather ain't cheap, so my box of failure cost me a lot of money. 

[Ron Padilla]

I have been doing a fare amount of reading on kydex and even the people at crossbread feel the best to work with is 060 you will get the best definition out of the kydex, the thicker stuff gets to hard to work.

[Ron Padilla]

Ya leather can get very pricey, that's why I was looking for patterns from those that are willing to share, like some others have said there really isn't any Secrets. I think they just want you to go through some hard nocks to get to the end results. Right now I am searching for an answer to using magnets instead of snaps for the straps on holsters.

[gjohnsoniv]

I've been doing the same, but leather ain't cheap, so my box of failure cost me a lot of money.

yeah, don't want to think about how much mine has cost me.

[Ron Padilla]

Were you able to look up the 2 locations I shared?

[BigK]

What thickness of kydex works well?

 

 

I have been doing a fare amount of reading on kydex and even the people at crossbread feel the best to work with is 060 you will get the best definition out of the kydex, the thicker stuff gets to hard to work.

 

I'd agree with 0.06" for the body of a holster Overall, it is probably the best for definition and it's pretty darn strong for an IWB holster. If you're making a holster with a kydex back and front, some recommend stepping up to 0.08" for whichever side you'll be attaching the hardware to. Even that won't do for belt loops, however, you'll have to have 0.093" for the actual loop material, since it takes so much more stress.

 

This makes shopping for hardware a little tougher, because the screws that hold the loops on have to be long enough to make it thru all 3 layers and still have enough threads to engage the nut and allow for rubber washers, if you're using any. I like to use eyelets to fasten the 2 layers of kydex together, but the cheap/common ones barely work on 2 layers of 0.06".

[Ron Padilla]

my first batch of vinagroon is almost done and will be testing on leather later in the week, I also found a source for a piece ptfe to use as a base for making a vacuum system to use to form both leather holsters and kydex holsters, so things are moving along.  I just need to find out the status of the sewing machine that was purchased in Cali and being prepped to send out to me.  

[Ron Padilla]

Cut out the backing for a kydex leather IWB holster, man was this stuff tough to cut, measures .250 for the leather alone, it is the 1st one with much tp learn.

[Ron Padilla]

Cut out the backing for a kydex leather IWB holster, man was this stuff tough to cut, measures .250 for the leather alone, it is the 1st one with much tp learn.

my first batch of vinagroon is almost done and will be testing on leather later in the week, I also found a source for a piece ptfe to use as a base for making a vacuum system to use to form both leather holsters and kydex holsters, so things are moving along. I just need to find out the status of the sewing machine that was purchased in Cali and being prepped to send out to me.

[Ron Padilla]

Cut out the backing for a kydex leather IWB holster, man was this stuff tough to cut, measures .250 for the leather alone, it is the 1st one with much tp learn.

Cut out the backing for a kydex leather IWB holster, man was this stuff tough to cut, measures .250 for the leather alone, it is the 1st one with much tp learn.

my first batch of vinagroon is almost done and will be testing on leather later in the week, I also found a source for a piece ptfe to use as a base for making a vacuum system to use to form both leather holsters and kydex holsters, so things are moving along. I just need to find out the status of the sewing machine that was purchased in Cali and being prepped to send out to me.

I'd agree with 0.06" for the body of a holster Overall, it is probably the best for definition and it's pretty darn strong for an IWB holster. If you're making a holster with a kydex back and front, some recommend stepping up to 0.08" for whichever side you'll be attaching the hardware to. Even that won't do for belt loops, however, you'll have to have 0.093" for the actual loop material, since it takes so much more stress.

This makes shopping for hardware a little tougher, because the screws that hold the loops on have to be long enough to make it thru all 3 layers and still have enough threads to engage the nut and allow for rubber washers, if you're using any. I like to use eyelets to fasten the 2 layers of kydex together, but the cheap/common ones barely work on 2 layers of 0.06".

[94user]

 

Went and done it again.

[Ron Padilla]

Looks nice what did you dye it with or did the leather come black?

[94user]

Fiebing's USMC black. Top coated with Fiebing's Resolene.  You have to top coat a black dye or it will rub off on hands, clothes, the atmosphere , etc.

[Ron Padilla]

I used groon on mine, the 1st kydex and leather not completely done and ya learn from your mistakes!

[Ron Padilla]

I used groon on mine, the 1st kydex and leather not completely done and ya learn from your mistakes!

[BigK]

Your detail on the molding looks great. You got some great definition there on the Kydex!

 

I learned a trick somewhere along the line, but can't recall where. I use a piece of wood dowel a little thicker than the height of the front sight post. I cut a notch similar to an arrow nock to slide onto the front sight and make sure it's long enough to almost reach the ejection port. Then I sand the side that will contact the top of the slide until it's flat for about half that length to help keep it in place when I use masking tape to hold it to my slide while I'm forming the Kydex.

 

What this does is leave you with a nice sight channel that allows the gun to draw smoothly without snagging the front sight on the area where you mold the ejection port. If the dowel is thick enough, you can even leave the muzzle end open without fear of the front sight snagging there either.

 

Hope that helps.

[Ron Padilla]

thank you for the tip I have watched some utube videos where guys are doing that and I forgot to do that, I am in the begining stages of building a vacuum chamber former where I will need to do that for sure.
Thanks

[gregintenn]

Fiebing's USMC black. Top coated with Fiebing's Resolene.  You have to top coat a black dye or it will rub off on hands, clothes, the atmosphere , etc.

If you polish it good with a shoe brush, it won't rub off anymore. Black is the only dye I've had that problem with. It's like it creates an outer layer of some sort of corrosion or something as it dries. You should still protect it with a product such as resolene. I also put neutral shoe polish on top of that; then buff it off for further protection and shine.

[gjohnsoniv]

If you polish it good with a shoe brush, it won't rub off anymore. Black is the only dye I've had that problem with. It's like it creates an outer layer of some sort of corrosion or something as it dries. You should still protect it with a product such as resolene. I also put neutral shoe polish on top of that; then buff it off for further protection and shine.

I've always wondered what was in the black to make it do that.

[Ron Padilla]

A few more subtle changes, the leather backing is quarter inch but I wanted a backing so I added a buckskin backing

[Ron Padilla]

A few more subtle changes, the leather backing is quarter inch but I wanted a backing so I added a buckskin backing