Shed Plans - What Would You Have Done Differently?

[wewoapsiak]

Hey guys and gals, I currently am in the early stages of designing my wood / storage shed I want to build this year and would like to pick your brain about a few things.  I am looking for input from people who have or had a shed and wanted things changed.  The main purpose of this is for firewood and yard / garden tools.  The left side will most likely be 4' off the ground, would 4x4 posts sunk in concrete be ok or should I go with 6x6s?  Thoughts, critiques, and recommendations are welcome; below is the crude sketchup drawing of what I've got so far.  

• 2x8 floor base with 3/4" flooring
• main shed is standard 2x4 16" on-center framed that will have some sort of siding enclosing it
• open wood storage portion is using 4x4s to support the roof
• gable 2x4 roof 24" oc, 6/12 pitch with over hangs
• No power (yet) so one, maybe two windows.

 

 

[BJB]

Not sure what part of Clinton you live in but the east side going out towards I75 has some underground wet springs. Ask me how I know???? I would make my post holes wider at the bottom when digging and put 6" of concrete in the bottom and let the set for a day before putting posts on then concrete around them. I do a lot of building and am close, if you need any help let me know, I could spare a few hours.

[enfield]

That's a lot of weight. I think 6x6's are called for.

[Grand Torino]

4X4's  tend to twist...I'd go with 4x6 or 6x6 if it were mine....just sayin'.

[peejman]

Bigger.  Always Bigger. 

 

Draw up a floor plan layout.  Measure out all the stuff you think you might put in there, and make sure it all fits with adequate space to walk around it without having climb over stuff or move 5 things to get at that one stuck in the back.  I bet the first thing you'll notice is that a 36" wide door is fairly limiting.  I'd look at a 48" door. 

 

Yes, 6x6 supports.  4x6's at least.  Over-build the crap out of it, you'll be glad you did later. 

 

Skylights instead of windows.  Saves wall space, cheaper and more secure than windows.   

 

Gable/soffit/ridge vents for some air flow. 

 

Think real hard about running power.  It's a whole lot easier now than later. 

[10-Ring]

Two things...
1) figure out how much space you need and double it.

2) I'll second Peej on the sky lights, Windows allow crooks to see what you have and provide a point of entry. I knew a guy whose shed was robbed by the thief coming in through the window and kicking out the door from the inside.

[nightrunner]

Definitely 6x6s. No doubt.

Use 2x12s on the floor, if used for firewood, that's a lot of weight. Personally I'd go with 12" floor joist centers under the wood storage area then go to 16" centers for tool storage area.

A 6/12 pitch is REALLY steep, much more so than the drawing. The drawing looks closer to a 3/12 pitch, which is plenty unless you want a lot of height in the attic for some reason, storage, etc.

Depending on how wide the building is, you may need some additional support in the center of the building.

A 36" door may be ok if no large power tools such as tillers or push mowers, etc are in there. Otherwise consider a set of double doors.

No windows, not worth it unless you plan on sitting at a work bench in there in which case you will be miserable without power no matter what. And my experience says that skylights are a pain in the rear and not worth the expense.

It wouldn't cost much to put a light or two and some outlets in there if needed but if not, a flashlight would be better than windows.

[owejia]

If you have a level lot to build on and are storing fire wood , think about a concrete floor. You can calculate cost both ways, concrete verses wood floor, depending on how many ricks or cords you burn you may need more storage space than you think.

[hipower]

I'll echo all that has been said in the preceding posts. It's all very good information and suggestions that will give you a much better built shed in the long run.

I, along with my father-in-law, have built storage sheds at 2 different homes that my wife and I have lived in.

Please consider this as practical and viable insight from "one who knows" thru some experience.

First, even while you are planning and in the drawing on paper stages; go mark out our layout in the desired area.

It may appear that you have enough space as is. Take my word for it...you don't. As 10-Ring said "double it".

What looks adequate now will shrink unbelievably when you start placing things inside.

Secondly. I suggest building above ground level 6 to 10 inches at least. BJB mentioned underground springs in the area, and you don't want your floor sagging from water damage.

Yes, you are setting up a possible critter home, but you can use wire mesh, or best imo, sections of chain link fencing from base to ground level.
Or just bite the bullet and skirt it with a good outdoor grade paneling. A little more work now, will save you headaches later.

Thirdly, as all have pretty much said, over build it. Strength in the walls and ceiling are a very good thing. You will find that hanging shelves off the studs, building tables attached to the studs, and if your interior height will allow, using old doors for shelves will be much easier.

Fourthly, if you can get power to it...do it. You won't think it necessary till you think one day " If I just had some power here, I could...."

Finally, and this is up to you; consider pouring a concrete pad for stability and for flooring. No wood rot or sections bucking up from water and age.

Yes all this will add time and money to your build, but in the long run I don't think you will regret it.

[E4 No More]

I have a 10 x 20 shed and filled it fairly quickly.

 

If you can perhaps run water for a utility sink. They run about $75 at Lowes and are nice for clean-up with no worry of getting momma mad at you for dirtying the kitchen/bathroom sink.

[wewoapsiak]

Thanks for all the input guys, I live on the side of a hill in the middle of no where and I didn't really think of the window vs skylight thing; the extra security and more usable space sounds nice, I'll have to look into and running electricity to a bit more.  I might be pushing the dimensions already, but I've yet to do a rough layout outside yet.

 

Another question, pressure treated lumber is needed I take it, but is that and the condition all I need to be concerned about when buying the lumber?  I'm no where near ready to do this, but I'm getting my ducks in a row.

[Grand Torino]

Thanks for all the input guys, I live on the side of a hill in the middle of no where and I didn't really think of the window vs skylight thing; the extra security and more usable space sounds nice, I'll have to look into and running electricity to a bit more.  I might be pushing the dimensions already, but I've yet to do a rough layout outside yet.

 

Another question, pressure treated lumber is needed I take it, but is that and the condition all I need to be concerned about when buying the lumber?  I'm no where near ready to do this, but I'm getting my ducks in a row.

If your going to be 4' off the ground I suggest using pressure treated for all your framing/ floor joists and posts and even the 3/4" flooring. Regular framing lumber should be fine for the rest. I have 2 sheds over 20 years old built this way and they are holding up just fine.

[peejman]

Thanks for all the input guys, I live on the side of a hill in the middle of no where and I didn't really think of the window vs skylight thing; the extra security and more usable space sounds nice, I'll have to look into and running electricity to a bit more.  I might be pushing the dimensions already, but I've yet to do a rough layout outside yet.

 

Another question, pressure treated lumber is needed I take it, but is that and the condition all I need to be concerned about when buying the lumber?  I'm no where near ready to do this, but I'm getting my ducks in a row.

 

 

Everything from the ground to the floor should be treated.  The rest doesn't have to be if you're going to paint it.  Plan to spend some time picking through the stacks of lumber at the lumber yard.  It's worth the time to get boards as a straight as you can find, rather than just ordering a bundle.  Pay attention to the grain in the board in particular with the treated stuff, as it can warp tremendously while it dries.  If construction will be a slow process, get only what you can use in a week or so.  Boards will warp when left sitting for days out in the weather. 

[Monkeyman2500]

You might want to consider two separate builds. One for wood and another for the shed. Wood piles tend to attract termites and other bugs. Im not sure if that would be different keeping it inside.

[No_0ne]

1.  Concrete for the floors - you can pour both the floor and the footing as a unit, if you're doing your own labor the cost may be less this way.

2. As others have pointed out, storing wood next to your lawn shop is just about guaranteed to attract insects and critters that aren't welcome in the other side.

3.  Doubling the size of your storage shed is a good idea, tripling is even better - it's a known law of the natural universe that the stuff you try to store expands exponentially over time ...

[Ropin4gold]

I have a loft in mine. Highly recommend it.

[hipower]

I have a loft in mine. Highly recommend it.

 

Left that out of my thoughts for you. I don't have much of one, but a little chipboard over the ceiling rafters can really add to you space!