Loading 300 Blackout die questions...

[maroonandwhite]

So I currently use the Lee Classic Turret press for loading my .223 stuff. The 4 die set of Lee dies included a powder through expanding die for .223. The 300 blackout die set does not come with an expanding die or any type of powder through die. http://leeprecision.com/3-di-300aac-blkout.html

 

Do these cases not need expanding when loading factory jacketed bullets? Do any of you know of an powder through expanding die that will work? I see that they have a non expanding powder through die that I may have to use. I want to be able to use my auto-disk dispenser on this. If it matter I will be making my brass from .223.

[Luap]

On a Rifle case I thought the expansion is done by the sizing die?  I use a single stage Lee and never had a issue getting jacketed bullets to load on a normal 300 brass or modified .223/5.56.  It is my understanding and historically my experience with Pistol Lead bullets I've loaded did require a little more case flair so I didn't shave them a tad.  But I haven't used lead on the 300 blackout.   
 
Lee makes a Long Charging Die Part # 90194 (which you mention) and a Lee 30 M1 Powder Thru Expanding Die Part # 90494.  Both of these items are discussed rather in-depth over on the 300 blackout site.
 
Good luck and lets us know what you come up with.  My son has a Lee Turret and once I settle on a formula I likely will crank it up on the 300. Edited May 22, 2015 by Luap

[maroonandwhite]

I am second guessing myself now. I did not buy the 4 die set which comes with the neck sizer. I bought the standard 3 die set and had to buy an extra "rifle charging die" as well as the double disk kit to use with the auto disk measure. The pistol die sets include the "powder through expanding die". Makes sense now. I haven't reloaded .223 in a while so I forgot what I had haha.

[maroonandwhite]

Also be aware the Lee does are "sizing" and not "forming" dies. Because of that you might have issues with your gun if it has a tight chamber or is chambered for 300 Whisper.

The only time you need to buy any additional expanding does is when you are shooting cast. A rifle, or even a pistol, charging doe will work fine with jacketed bullets.

If you still can't figure it out give me a call and we can talk. I might have to make you what you need. I made my own belling die.

Cool. I think I should be good to go since I won't be casting anytime soon. I'm gonna make myself a little jig setup for cutting the brass down first. My plan is to get some factory ammo, shoot a few and the re size those and compare them to the resized/cut down .223 brass. I'm guessing the difference will be small. I did read some posts of yours over on the other site talking about spring back and whatnot. These Lee dies are cheap enough to try I guess.

[mikegideon]

So I currently use the Lee Classic Turret press for loading my .223 stuff. The 4 die set of Lee dies included a powder through expanding die for .223. The 300 blackout die set does not come with an expanding die or any type of powder through die. http://leeprecision.com/3-di-300aac-blkout.html

 

Do these cases not need expanding when loading factory jacketed bullets? Do any of you know of an powder through expanding die that will work? I see that they have a non expanding powder through die that I may have to use. I want to be able to use my auto-disk dispenser on this. If it matter I will be making my brass from .223.

 

Expanding/powder thru is for pistol reloading. I use a rifle charging die. Don't think it's caliber specific. I also use a factory crimp die in the 4th hole. So far, I haven't had any problems forming 223 cases with the Lee sizing dies. The formed cases drop into the case gauge like a factory round. Based on what Dolo says, YMMV.

Edited May 22, 2015 by mikegideon

[maroonandwhite]

Expanding/powder thru is for pistol reloading. I use a rifle charging die. Don't think it's caliber specific. I also use a factory crimp die in the 4th hole. So far, I haven't had any problems forming 223 cases with the Lee sizing dies. The formed cases drop into the case gauge like a factory round. Based on what Dolo says, YMMV.

Yep that's exactly how I have it setup. I finally got around to ordering some 9mm dies and pistol powder today so I can see the turret press really shine! I have been waiting on Bass Pro to have Bullseye available online so I can use ship to store. Gonna try Unique if I don't like Bullseye. I'm sure I can get it locally but just don't have the time to drive around looking for it. I'm gonna get with David at some point this year and spend a bunch of money for bulk supplies.

[mikegideon]

Only pistol I reload is 45. Bullseye works fine for me

[Luap]

Redacted "I'm gonna make myself a little jig setup for cutting the brass down first".

There is a jig already made that works like a charm. Made by fellow in NC. Search for it on Ebay or he has a super big thread over at 300 blk talk site. Add a 40 dollar cutoff saw from Harbor Freight or Northern tool and cutting 5.56 brass is a breeze. Search "300 blackout case cutting jig, Whisper, 300 blackout forming, 300 blackout trim". Same guy has slotted case gauge for 300 also. and his web address is http://www.zepprecisionmachines.com/index.html Edited May 22, 2015 by Luap

[R1100R]

Try A-H reloading on 4th AVE in Nashville for powder and supplies. I was there today and it was well stocked and a lot cheaper than the gunships in our area

[maroonandwhite]

Try A-H reloading on 4th AVE in Nashville for powder and supplies. I was there today and it was well stocked and a lot cheaper than the gunships in our area

I'll have to check them out. Had no idea about them so thanks.

[R1100R]

I'll have to check them out. Had no idea about them so thanks.

Give me a call if you still have my number if needed.

[Ron Padilla]

The jig and mentioned above works well I have been using one now for over a year, I have only used a box of store bought all the rest have been hand loads, however that was a learning curve that took me a while, now your results might come quicker than mine, the difficult part was getting the shoulder set back far enough on the case with the die, after a few comment here and talking with others I finally got it right and haven't looked back.  Good luck with what you do in the reloading room, I enjoy making things so it is therapeutic for me.

[maroonandwhite]

Bumping this one back up for a new question. Just got in my jig and getting the chop saw today. Would you guys think I need to deburr each case before running it up in the die assuming the edges aren't just nasty? From what I can see the harbor freight chop saw makes a pretty clean cut.

[mikegideon]

I didn't. I trimmed and deburred after the case was necked down. It won't hurt the die

[Caster]

That's a good method Dolomite.

God know you don't wanna trim a thousand of the effin things by hand, only a fool would try that.....ohh wait. Edited July 13, 2015 by Caster

[maroonandwhite]

+1

The Harbor Freight saw makes such a clean cut I am able to set my chop saw so I do not have to trim. I chop them, size them then load them. The best way I have found is to let it spool completely then chop it as fast as you can. If you try to cut slowly sometimes the blade can catch the casing and ruin the casing.

cool. I'm guessing you set it slightly smaller than you want the final length? Or do they not stretch much when sized?


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[Caster]

You just have to kill a couple of cases and find out.  Not hard to do.  I used a piece of angle iron with a nut welded inside.  Thread a bolt in with a jam nut and you got an adjustable stop.  I used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel and could zip through them fast just letting the wheel gently touch the edge of the angle..  Keyword: Gentle.  I would readjust it every 3 or 4 hundred if necessary.  

[maroonandwhite]

+1

 

The Harbor Freight saw makes such a clean cut I am able to set my chop saw so I do not have to trim. I chop them, size them then load them. The best way I have found is to let it spool completely then chop it as fast as you can. If you try to cut slowly sometimes the blade can catch the casing and ruin the casing.

Is there a certain length you are cutting the cases to avoid having to trim? Looks like 1.348" is the minimum and I am assuming they are going to stretch a little when sizing. I've got to figure out how to get this thing to cut straight now. I'm not expecting much in the way of straightness from a $30 saw. The die I got (reloadimizer) has a height adjustment screw on the end so that should fine.

[Ron Padilla]

you have to eyeball and play with it a little to find the sweet spot with that Jig, I did use that one at first then bought the other jig that is offered by one of the other members over on 300blk site, the saw will work fine for what you are doing. What I also do is to take some hornady spray lube and spray the cases every now and then to help the blade with cutting the cases. There is also a kit available for the saw that has blades, belt, and set screw, or you can just get blades at HF for the saw. Hope this helps it just becomes trial and error.

[maroonandwhite]

you have to eyeball and play with it a little to find the sweet spot with that Jig, I did use that one at first then bought the other jig that is offered by one of the other members over on 300blk site, the saw will work fine for what you are doing. What I also do is to take some hornady spray lube and spray the cases every now and then to help the blade with cutting the cases. There is also a kit available for the saw that has blades, belt, and set screw, or you can just get blades at HF for the saw. Hope this helps it just becomes trial and error.

I got it going last night but am going to have to run them back through this evening. I had the jig set to cut 1.358" but somehow it moved and cut them about 1.37". I am just wondering how much they will stretch when re sized and if I should be cutting them shorter than that to begin with. I am getting different numbers on the minimum length.

[maroonandwhite]

I will chop a few cases tonight and let you know. Btw, what jig are you using?

Cool thanks. I am using this one.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fastest-300-Blackout-Case-Cutting-Cut-Off-and-Trimmer-Jig-with-New-Leveler-/131118141716?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e87401114

 

I believe I have it set up to cut rather uniformly. My only concern is how uniform the cut has to be to bypass the trimming step. With the small variations I'm getting in the lengths I am hoping to just set it as low as I can go and not worry about it.

[Ron Padilla]

This the jig I use, it is easier to set for clse cutting and straight cuts as well as spraying lube on to help the blade cut the brass, one I cut I chamfer and debir before sizing to make sure I am not introducing and particles into the dye.

[Ron Padilla]

This the jig I use, it is easier to set for clse cutting and straight cuts as well as spraying lube on to help the blade cut the brass, one I cut I chamfer and debir before sizing to make sure I am not introducing and particles into the dye.