reloading for revolvers

[tercel89]

How much different is reloading for revolvers than reloading for semi-auto pistols ? I have been reloading 45acp and 9mm.

 Other than the regular dies , will I need a special crimp die ? What I am thinking of reloading is .38/.357

Edited May 13, 2015 by tercel89

[Trekbike]

How much different is reloading for revolvers than reloading for semi-auto pistols ? I have been reloading 45acp and 9mm.
Other than the regular dies , will I need a special crimp die ? What I am thinking of reloading is .38/.357

38/357 is easier to reload IMO. No special crimp die needed. Most folks just use the bullet seating/crimping die that come in the three die set . Go with carbide dies for sure. Edited May 13, 2015 by Trekbike

[gun sane]

I've had to increase the taper crimp on my 9mm loads because of crimp jump since I bought a Ruger LCR in that caliber, but that's the only real adjustment I've had to make. 

[gregintenn]

Revolver ammo is easier to reload than semi auto in my opinion. If it'll fit in the cylinder and won't blow the gun up, it'll work. Semi auto guns are more fussy about their diet.

[musicman]

I won't say that revolver ammo is EASIER, but more FLEXIBLE. You only have two requirements: get the bullet out of the barrel, and don't blow up the gun. No cycling, etc to worry about. I don't feel there's any difference in the actual work of making auto vs revolver rounds.

[leroy]

As several of out brother opiners have said, loading for revolvers is, indeed, easier than for semiautomatics... Loads are more flexible... The most overlooked thing is a good crimp... All ammo needs some form of crimp... The crimp thing is much easier with the revolver loads... Make sure ya resize the brass before loading and get a good crimp on the completed round, and everything will be ok if you do your job well....

 

leroy

[Jonnin]

its about the same.  The only "gotcha" for revolvers is that real calibers can do an inertial bullet pull inside the cylinder if the round is not crimped properly for the recoil factor.   So stuff like a 44 mag, you can yank the rounds out far enough that the cylinder will be jammed up from the bullets protruding from the end of the cylinder.  This is just annoying -- you can push them back in far enough to unload and handle the problem.   Heavier bullets need a heavier crimp for big recoil rounds.

[tercel89]

its about the same.  The only "gotcha" for revolvers is that real calibers can do an inertial bullet pull inside the cylinder if the round is not crimped properly for the recoil factor.   So stuff like a 44 mag, you can yank the rounds out far enough that the cylinder will be jammed up from the bullets protruding from the end of the cylinder.  This is just annoying -- you can push them back in far enough to unload and handle the problem.   Heavier bullets need a heavier crimp for big recoil rounds.

 

 I have had that happen with Winchester White Box .38 ammo. Some of the bullets from the cartridges with pop out a little from the case and would keep the cylinder from rotating.

[stumpy]

Autos demand a minimum pressure level to cycle and reload from shot to shot.  This means there are few "low(er) recoil" rounds in a given caliber other than to move to a lighter bullet.

 

Revolvers, on the other hand, can be loaded anywhere from mild to wild, based on the user's competence.  They cycle by the shooter's hand and are content to simply get the projectile out of the barrel.  Revolvers will function with any weight of bullet where the diameter is appropriate for the bore dimensions.  The 38 Special can be loaded with bullets as light as 75 grains (Lyman wadcutter) up to over 200 grains (many selections, variables are cylinder length and loaded round length.  Revolvers will fire and cycle with shotshell loads, duplex (more than one bullet in the case) loads (ie, a pair of 75 grain WC bullets in a single 38 Spl. case), cast or jacketed bullets, and the list goes on.  Ammo can be crafted for a revolver with fixed sights such that the bullet will routinely "shoot to the sights" by varying the bullet weight and/or velocity.  There is much fun to be had with revolver loads, even being able to instantly recover one's fired brass rather than having to send out the search party looking for auto brass.  As with all handloading ventures, employ safety with your load development and enjoy the ride.

 

Stumpy

[tercel89]

I am about to sacrifice one of my beloved Glock 21's to fund a Ruger Sp101 or GP100. I have had both these revolvers but foolishly sold them. Now that I am reloading , they seem like they would be fun to reload for :woohoo:

[musicman]

DOOOOOO IIIIIIITTTTTTTTTT!!!!!! I vote GP100.

I had a 6" stainless GP and miss it dearly. Imho, if you're buying a 357 for the fun of reloading, I don't think there's a better choice. I can't think of a tougher 357, ready to take years of abuse with flaming hot magnums. I'm not saying the SP101 can't take it, too, but the GP is much easier in terms of handling recoil.

I further vote 6", to make the most velocity! Get you a bucket of 158gr or 125gr jacketed bullets and aa9, h110/296, or 2400 and go to town! Pure bliss.

[expendable]

I will have to disagree with people that reloading for a revolver is easier than reloading for a auto.

 

I would say that you have many more options (bullet style, velocity) when loading for a revolver than with a auto, but that doesn't mean its easier.

 

With revolver ammo I usually use a Roll crimp, with a Roll crimp you have to be concerned with the length of the brass to make sure it is consistent.

This means at some point you will need to trim cases to get a consistent crimp, I hate trimming cases!

 

With Semi auto ammo and using a taper crimp this is not nessesary.

 

Kurt

[gregintenn]

I will have to disagree with people that reloading for a revolver is easier than reloading for a auto.

 

I would say that you have many more options (bullet style, velocity) when loading for a revolver than with a auto, but that doesn't mean its easier.

 

With revolver ammo I usually use a Roll crimp, with a Roll crimp you have to be concerned with the length of the brass to make sure it is consistent.

This means at some point you will need to trim cases to get a consistent crimp, I hate trimming cases!

 

With Semi auto ammo and using a taper crimp this is not nessesary.

 

Kurt

I wouldn't say it is physically easier, but technically easier. A revolver round has to fit the cylinder, not explode the gun, and go bang. A lot of things need to be "right" in order for a semi auto round to properly function in it's host pistol.

[tercel89]

I will have to disagree with people that reloading for a revolver is easier than reloading for a auto.

 

I would say that you have many more options (bullet style, velocity) when loading for a revolver than with a auto, but that doesn't mean its easier.

 

With revolver ammo I usually use a Roll crimp, with a Roll crimp you have to be concerned with the length of the brass to make sure it is consistent.

This means at some point you will need to trim cases to get a consistent crimp, I hate trimming cases!

 

With Semi auto ammo and using a taper crimp this is not nessesary.

 

Kurt

 

 I see what you are saying about possbily having to trim cases in the future. That is mainly why I wrote this thread in the first place. But like someone else said , you dont have to worry about having lots of things right to make the slide cycle and eject and recoil and all that mess.

[expendable]

I see what you are saying about possbily having to trim cases in the future. That is mainly why I wrote this thread in the first place. But like someone else said , you dont have to worry about having lots of things right to make the slide cycle and eject and recoil and all that mess.

This is correct, but it is very rare that if you use published data for a semi auto round that it will not cycle and eject.
Sometimes I will load below published starting data (target loads for competitions) these I will need to work around with springs.

With revolvers you will also need to be concerned with the size of the cylinder throat and angle of the forcing cone, these two things will have a bearing on what bullets will work good and shoot accurately.

I have no trouble loading for a semi auto or revolver, they both have their pluses and minuses, as long as you know what they are everything will work fine.