10/22 problems

[gomer pyle]

I have a Magnum Research 10/22 with a KIDD trigger installed. I have always had problems with it not wanting to cycle but never noticed how bad until I went to the range today. At least once and most of the time twice in a 10 round mag, it will not eject the spent round. It will hang on the ejector, feed the next round, then close and crush the spent casing. 90% of the time it does it on the 2nd round and then normally round 6 or 7. I shot about 200 rounds today while cleaning and oiling every 50 or so. Also, the one time it ejected the first round correctly, it auto fired the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rounds with one trigger squeeze. I am shooting CCI Mini-Mags and have run Remy Golden thru it with the same results. Any ideas?  

[I_Like_Pie]

That sounds like a classic extractor problem.  

After firing the bolt cycles back.  The cartridge hits the ejector and is naturally pushed away from the bolt. The extractor loses purchase instead of acting as the pivot point, and causes a jamb.

 

That extractor needs to really dig into that lip.  A volquartsen or modification of the factory one will work...there used to be a guide on rimfire central a decade or so ago. It may still be there.

Edited April 29, 2015 by I_Like_Pie

[Dolomite_supafly]

Give the gun, and especially the trigger group, a good cleaning. A very dirty gun can cause everything you describe. Crud can hold the firing pin forward and the gun acts like an open bolt MG until the firing pin frees itself again. And a bolt face full of crud can cause cases to stick. Bad extractors can cause a lot of these problems too.

[graycrait]

If I had another 10/22 that worked I would replace all the guts of the MR with Ruger parts and see what happens.

 

Is the MR bolt one of their own or a Ruger bolt?

 

When you say Kidd trigger is it the entire housing and guts from Kidd or simply a Kidd kit installed in the MR trigger housing? 

 

1.  Do what Dolomite says.  Then disassemble the bolt completely.  Run some 800+ grit sandpaper anywhere there is friction, like in the firing pin slot, along the firing pin.  Maybe replace the firing pin spring.  Clean the extractor slot well and get a Volquartsen extractor.

 

2.  Make sure the extractor slot in the barrel is working. and without knowing what kind of barrel it is maybe check the breech face for burrs etc.

 

3.  Make sure the barrel is installed so that the exctractor is centered in the slot in the barrel.

 

4.  The trigger may be another thing altogether if it is allowing full auto and the full auto is not related to the bolt/firing pin.

 

I've frittered away more money than most on 1022s and these are my lessons learned.

 

1.  Don't like the way your stock 1022 works?  Send the barrel and bolt to Queboltworks 90.00.  Install a VQ extractor 12.00.  Maybe put a piece of inner tube an inch away from the forward edge of the stocks forend. Install a Kidd trigger kit or send your trigger to Brimstone 35-110. Everything beyond that is probably involving serious money with no real dollar cost benefit.  Bedding, done right probably won't hurt.  Trigger, tuned OEM bolt and rechambered OEM barrel will put you so close to the high dollar rigs it hardly makes sense to go further.  Have you noted that regardless of how much you spend on a 10/22 they are still never used in any sort of international competition?  

 

2.  Next upgrade for me would be barrel and stock.  My choice for barrel would be http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/17-heavy-taper-sporter-replacement-barrel-22lr/  Stock who knows?  They all seem to need some fiddling with.

 

3.  Next upgrade for me, now, would be:   http://www.champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx?p=ItemDetailOptions&item=011763

Edited April 29, 2015 by graycrait

[hipower]

" Upgrade." lol

 

That's a whole new world.

[gomer pyle]

Unfortunately, I had to work over this evening. The trigger is a complete trigger assembly. I'm going to clean it again and oil it heavily but I've done that multiple times, maybe it will work. How hard is the extractor to change out? I might go ahead and change it.

thanks

daniel 

[Oh Shoot]

 How hard is the extractor to change out?

 

Not much to it. Here are some vids, each longer than it needs to be.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=change+10%2F22+extractor&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=change+10/22+extractor&newwindow=1&tbm=vid

 

Single overall best thing one can do a Ruger factory 10/22, dunno what's the story on your MR one though.

 

- OS

Edited April 30, 2015 by Oh Shoot

[enfield]

My stock 10-22 fires every time and has never jammed.  It also hits what I point it at.  How can you improve on that?

 

I never understood people's urge to modify things, whether its a truck, a gun  or a dishwasher.  The overall plan seems to be "fiddle with it until it's broke, then unload it on a friend and buy another to fiddle with".  :D

[maroonandwhite]

My stock 10-22 fires every time and has never jammed.  It also hits what I point it at.  How can you improve on that?

 

I never understood people's urge to modify things, whether its a truck, a gun  or a dishwasher.  The overall plan seems to be "fiddle with it until it's broke, then unload it on a friend and buy another to fiddle with".  :D

:rofl:  Man it's all about the journey and not the destination. Once I figured that out I understood why my grandpa had so many radio parts and very few radios.

[Oh Shoot]

My stock 10-22 fires every time and has never jammed....

 

Regrettably, that is no longer always the case with new ones out of the box.

 

- OS

[gomer pyle]

I sprayed oil until it was dripping out and it ran perfect but that is not an option for every time I shoot. I did notice a little drag in the bolt when I pulled it back. I don't see or feel anything rough. I assume it needs to be polished? Would y'all still suggest to change the extractor? I'm not sure if MR uses stock Ruger extractor or their own version? 

 

My stock 10-22 fires every time and has never jammed.  It also hits what I point it at.  How can you improve on that?

 

I never understood people's urge to modify things, whether its a truck, a gun  or a dishwasher.  The overall plan seems to be "fiddle with it until it's broke, then unload it on a friend and buy another to fiddle with".  :D

While I understand where you are coming from with this statement, the first round I fired with my KIDD trigger installed made it worth every penny I paid for it.

[graycrait]

I'm thinking you need to polish your bolt, esp where the hammer drags, maybe even radious the back edge. Also disassemble the bolt and clean and polish.  Change the exractor to VQ.

[Ugly]

Not sure about the Magnum Research barrel but you can't (not supposed to at least) shoot minimags out of a Kidd barrel. The tolerance is too tight, worth looking into as it could be jamming the case in to the rifling.

The 10/22 is a fantastic rifle, I've only had the metal trigger housings and have never had a problem with them other than crud.

I agree with not fixing something if it isn't broke but you can make it better :) Edited May 1, 2015 by Still Ugly

[gomer pyle]

Not sure about the Magnum Research barrel but you can't shoot minimags out of a Kidd barrel. The tolerance is too tight, worth looking into as it could be jamming the case in there.:)

I did not know this. I did hull off some cheap Winchester last night to check it. I will play around with this.

[Ugly]

I didn't know either till I got my Kidd barrel.

The good side is it shoots cheap 22lr extremely well. I save the mini mags for my other 22 lead slingers.

[peejman]

Too much oil?  In my experience, blowback guns get dirty real fast, particularly .22's.  Excess oil turns the residue into goo that gums up the works.  If you can't find any obvious wear issues, trying running a little less oil. 

[Oh Shoot]

Not sure about the Magnum Research barrel but you can't (not supposed to at least) shoot minimags out of a Kidd barrel. The tolerance is too tight, worth looking into as it could be jamming the case in to the rifling.

 

...The good side is it shoots cheap 22lr extremely well. I save the mini mags for my other 22 lead slingers.

 

???  CCI MiniMags are about as dimensionally and charge consistent a round you're likely to get in mainstream .22LR, sort of the standard one uses for diagnosing problems really -- how can it be bad but cheap bulk ones are okay?

 

Sure you don't mean CCI Stinger? Ruger says you shouldn't use it in their target barrels either. CCI Velocitor can be problematic in some precise chambers also.

 

- OS

Edited May 1, 2015 by Oh Shoot

[Dolomite_supafly]

I didn't know either till I got my Kidd barrel.

The good side is it shoots cheap 22lr extremely well. I save the mini mags for my other 22 lead slingers.

First time I have heard this as well.

 

BTW, where on his website did you read that? Link?

[Hozzie]

I have a Kidd Supergrade and have never had an issue with mini mags. I don't shoot them a lot as it shoots SK Pistol Match the best, but I don't recall any comments about not shooting them. It does have a tighter chamber though.

[gomer pyle]

I did search on MR's website and it states no stingers but does not mention mini-mags