Bore Cleaning Foam, how well does it work?

[Angus]

I am wondering if the foam is any better than Hoppy's? I have an old Ruger Security Six that has a problem taking .357 rounds after I have fired 100 or so .38 rounds through it. I am wondering if the foam would help keep the cylinders cleaner?

I was also told that it is because I was trying to use CCI Blazer .357 ammo, and the alluminum casing has more friction that brass?

Any thoughts or opinions would help a ton.

Edited November 5, 2008 by Angus
NY public education at work

[Oh Shoot]

I am wondering if the foam is any better than Hoppy's? I have an old Ruger Security Six that has a problem taking .357 rounds after I have fired 100 or so .38 rounds through it. I am wondering if the foam would help keep the cylinders cleaner?

I was also told that it is because I was trying to use CCI Blazer .357 ammo, and the alluminum casing has more friction that brass?

Any thoughts or opinions would help a ton.

Dunno about the foam, but can confirm that Blazer .357 alloy case is always snugger in cylinder of my Ruger after firing than brass, even starting with freshly cleaned cylinder.

Although it is conventional wisdom to shoot your .357 before 38 if you're ripping off a bunch.

- OS

[Angus]

Now ya tell me...damn dude, where were you last week...heh.

Really, thanks. I may look like a professional, but it's because I stayed in a Holiday Inn one time. I am a tried and true noobasaur.

.357 first, copy that!!

[Guest flyfishtn]

I only foam my barrel after a long day at the range and let the foam soak and ensure that residue gets out of the grooves before the normal cleaning process.

[Angus]

Well, I usually put about 200 rounds through my revovlver when I go to the range. Mostly .38's but I like to put 30 or 40 rounds of .357's throught it also. Would you consider this "heavy" firing?

[Oh Shoot]

Well, I usually put about 200 rounds through my revovlver when I go to the range. Mostly .38's but I like to put 30 or 40 rounds of .357's throught it also. Would you consider this "heavy" firing?

I dunno, eye of the beholder I reckon.

I only shoot my .357 Ruger maybe every 4 range trips, and then usually around 50 shots or less.

But if I shoot even 3 or 4 cylinders' worth of .38's I can feel the slight resistance of their residue buildup when I slide in a .357. Of course, this is generally all cheapo dirty ammo, too, (although none of it is really very cheapo price wise anymore).

I've shot .357/.38 revolvers off and on all my life, but I guess never enough rounds at a time of mixed to really have any probs chambering/removing .357 after .38. Plus I always have cleaned guns after firing them.

- OS

[Guest Todd@CIS]

By FAR, the best all-around bore cleaners that I've used and recommend are Shooter's Choice Bore Cleaner and Butch's Bore Shine.

I use Shooter's Choice because it is ammonia-free and Butch's is not. Ammonia is not good for chrome lined barrels (of which I have many). If the chrome-lining thing is not an issue for you, then Butch's works SLIGHTLY better.

After using either of these, you'll never go back to Hoppes.

These two products work so well that I don't use brushes or jags anymore. A soaked patch down the barrel a couple of times, wait 15 min (less if the fouling isn't heavy), blow it out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and presto...clean patch.

Edited November 5, 2008 by Todd@CIS

[Angus]

Sweet, thanks Todd

[Kano]

I use this stuff and like the results...... Gunslick

Shooter's Choice Xtreme Clean Ammonia Free Action and Bore Cleaning Solvent also good stuff that I use on my 1911's ...

[Guest krater]

i have read (but not tried) that shooting a single zinc bullet will clean out any lead deposit in a barrel's grooves. i havent tried it personally, but intend to as soon as i get another melting pit for the zinc (pot will be worthless for lead after zinc, again so i've read).