Oppsy Daisy, accidently stripped my bluing, what now?

[10-Ring]

Had a bonehead moment today.  I have this muzzleloader that I honestly got taken for a ride on.  I paid $100 bucks for it thinking that it just needed a little cleaning.  I stripped it down and found that there was more rust in the barrel than originally thought.  I decided to put some naval jelly in the barrel (never have used the stuff.)  While it's soaking I decide to hit a few rusty spots on the outside of the barrel and low and behold the finish on my fine firearm disappeared before my very eyes.  I purely bought this gun to hunt with.  I really don't care that much how it looks.  It's 100% function on this one.  I'm thinking about maybe primer and BBQ grill paint.  Key here is what ever I do has to be cheap.  I already have about twice as much in this gun as I would really care to so something like Duracoat is out of the budget.  I'm not even 100% sure that the barrel is not damaged beyond the point that accuracy will be greatly affected.  I can see the lands and grooves fine but there is some pitting.  Thankfully I can just laugh at what ever the outcome may be on this one, worst case scenario I'm out $100 which isn't that bad in the gun world.  I'm just glad it was this gun and not something nice.

[VERO1]

Get you some cans of Krylon, camouflage the crap out of it and don't look back.

[MacGyver]

Go to Lowe's. Pick a color that you like. See if it's on sale. Call it a day.

[runco]

Try this:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp_nE4lKK_w

[10-Ring]

I'll paint it black, put some tactical doodads on it and see what kind of uneducated comments I can get.

[nightrunner]

I'll paint it black, put some tactical doodads on it and see what kind of uneducated comments I can get.

Then sell it for 1000% profit. Just say it's what Chris Costa used to hunt with.

[kckndrgn]

Bass Pro (and other retailers) sell "cold blueing" liquid.  I've used it before and it works (heck I refinished a gun with it).  It's not hot blued like a factor would do, but it would add the rust protection you need.  

[peejman]

Then sell it for 1000% profit. Just say it's what Chris Costa used to hunt with.

 

 

:rofl:

 

 

 

Rustoleum, Krylon, ...  whatever.   Accuracy may improve a bit with use as the lead from the bullets should fill in the pitting to some extent. 

[frankmako]

cheap paint or cold blue is the way to go.  or just oil it after each use and be done. 

[Dolomite_supafly]

Find some Krylon, not Rustoleum, chalkboard paint. That stuff is a lot more durable than regular Krylon. Been using it on guns for years and have always been impressed.

[10-Ring]

Find some Krylon, not Rustoleum, chalkboard paint. That stuff is a lot more durable than regular Krylon. Been using it on guns for years and have always been impressed.

Have you tried the BBQ grill paint and if so would you recommend the chalkboard paint over it?

[wileecoyote]

I have used bbq paint, all the tough hardware store versions including krylon, and several cheaper refinishing products. But for a working hunting gun, and most metal objects that will be outdoors, I would recommend the high temp engine paint from any auto parts store. Still cheap, protects up to 1200F, and is very durable.

[hipower]

I have used bbq paint, all the tough hardware store versions including krylon, and several cheaper refinishing products. But for a working hunting gun, and most metal objects that will be outdoors, I would recommend the high temp engine paint from any auto parts store. Still cheap, protects up to 1200F, and is very durable.

Good thinking.

[Guest Broomhead]

Find some Krylon, not Rustoleum, chalkboard paint. That stuff is a lot more durable than regular Krylon. Been using it on guns for years and have always been impressed.

I seem to remember a thread from some time ago where you suggested chalkboard paint and the baking it for awhile. Would you still recommend that? If so, what time and temp?

[10-Ring]

I went to Lowe's with the intent to buy the Krylon chalkboard paint.  Lowe's doesn't carry Krylon so I bought Rustoleum high temp primer and engine paint ($17.xx).  Just got done with the first coat of primer, going to give it another shot of primer and them paint it.  After the barrel is taken care of I will put it back together and shoot it.  If I like the way it shoots I am going to strip and refinish the stock as it looks like it was used as a stick to beat extremely ugly people with for a long time.  Still have more money in it than I would like but if it makes a decent hunting gun I will be happy.

[wileecoyote]

I'd recommend baking it after the paint is dry. The engine paint hardens and becomes more durable once properly heat cured. You don't need to get it super hot, even 200 F in your kitchen oven for a few hours, or hang it above a wood stove or ceramic heater, or quite a few passes with a heat gun will help.

And remember that it's still paint, so use caution with solvents during cleaning. Edited March 5, 2015 by wileecoyote

[10-Ring]

May be able to do something with a heat gun, oven is out of the question that barrel is way too long to fit.  I'm happy with the results so far after 2 coats of primer and one coat of paint.  I'm planning on doing 1 or 2 more coats of paint.

Edited March 5, 2015 by 10-Ring

[rhyfelwr]

Rust blueing,

 

4 tablespoons salt

8 ounces peroxide

8 ounces white vineger

 

Mix warm so the salt will blend, degrease the barrel with something.. Rubbing alchehol is what I used. Dampen a paper towel in the solution and apply in long single strokes. It will rust, when it gets an even fine coat of rust put it into a pan (trough) of boiling distilled or rain water. It will turn black. Rub the excess black off with a paper towel and repeat. 6 or 7 times till it won't rust much anymore. Worked for me, and cost me nothing but time. Don't touch the metal with your fingers you don't want the oil getting on the gun during the process.

 

I linseed oiled the barrel to seal it after it blued the way I wanted, it really does get a deep black-blue. Also on the final rub down before the linseed oil I used 4X steel wool instead of the paper towel.

[Dolomite_supafly]

Have you tried the BBQ grill paint and if so would you recommend the chalkboard paint over it?

 

Chalkboard paint is a million times better. Whatever they put in it to make it impervious to chalk writing on it works extremely well for guns. But it must be the Krylon version and not the Rustoleum. The Rustoleum doesn't seem to go on as well and has a flat black look to it while the Krylon version is more like you would find on an AR lower, not shiny but not flat either.

 

And if you can bake it in an oven it gets even better. I normally paint my guns with a few coats over the course of an hour. I let it dry over night then I put the oven on 300 degrees. Once it is up to temperature I turn it off then I load the gun into the oven and forget about it for a couple of hours. Just make sure you remove anything that might get damaged by the heat, like plastics, wood or tritium sights.

 

I even took an old metal "safe" that I bought from Walmart years ago and turned it into a baking cabinet. I drilled a hole in the side at the bottom then I stuck the nozzle of a heat gun in the hole. I turn the heat gun on high and let it set. The temperature gets over 150 degrees and is plenty warm to cure the chalkboard paint. I might get creative and figure out a way to use a torch, or something else, to increase the heat inside the cabinet. But as it stands after a couple of hours at 150 degrees the chalkboard paint is well cured.

[10-Ring]

I'm pleased with the results!  Wish I had taken some before pictures, I've seen nicer weapons thrown away.  Here are a couple of pics, I'll report back when I've fired and cleaned it.  To make this more of a project I was unable to get the breech plug out and in the process of trying (heating, freezing, penetrating oil, and beating I boogered up the threading for the nipple.  I was able to save it with a tap forced into a 6mm nutdriver, crude but I got the threads straightened out.  So this thing certainly became a project, my total cost in it is $117.  Not horrible but I'm sure that I could have done better had I shopped around a little more. 

 

 

[raildog]

May of done better but now you have a great story to tell when you are old and boring your grand kids

[10-Ring]

Got the old smokepole out today.  I'm getting a 4" group at 50 yards but that was after a half a dozen shots and I forgot my patches so I was unable to swab the barrel so accuracy may improve some.  My engine paint did not hold up well, though it did look good until today.  Quite a bit of it fell off when I had it leaned up against the workbench cleaning it and Hoppes #9 took a little off as well though I tried my best not to let it get in contact with the paint.  I may just give it touch up squirts as needed, but I'm really wanting to try this method, I just need to find something big enough to boil water in and hold the barrel.

Rust blueing,

 

4 tablespoons salt

8 ounces peroxide

8 ounces white vineger

 

Mix warm so the salt will blend, degrease the barrel with something.. Rubbing alchehol is what I used. Dampen a paper towel in the solution and apply in long single strokes. It will rust, when it gets an even fine coat of rust put it into a pan (trough) of boiling distilled or rain water. It will turn black. Rub the excess black off with a paper towel and repeat. 6 or 7 times till it won't rust much anymore. Worked for me, and cost me nothing but time. Don't touch the metal with your fingers you don't want the oil getting on the gun during the process.

 

I linseed oiled the barrel to seal it after it blued the way I wanted, it really does get a deep black-blue. Also on the final rub down before the linseed oil I used 4X steel wool instead of the paper towel.