Smith Model 15-3

[res308]

This gun has a problem.

I can put snap caps or dummy rounds or whatever in and dry fire from now to next week without a problem. Typical Smith and Wesson smooth. But when I fire live ammo, and ONLY when I fire live ammo, and I'm just talking any type of standard pressure ammo, the problem rears it's head. You can fire 1,2,3,4 smooth as butter, but continue firing 5 and 6 and it'll take three gubmint mules and a tractor to pull that trigger. You can still manage to pull the trigger and fire the last two, but I have found ditch digging in Tennessee soil to be easier.

I have it gutted right now. I removed the side plate and carefully worked the action to see if anything was binding, and I can't see what is wrong. I examined the hand and it looks to be in perfect shape. The cylinder doesn't SEEM to be out of time, meaning the bolt seems to retract and pop back up on time every time. No excessive play in the cylinder.

The only thing I do notice so far is a "rub line" on the upper side of the forcing cone. That barrel/cylinder gap may be just a tad tight, but like I said, that seems to have zero effect while dry firing.

I'm about to polish the internals while I have it apart, but I really don't think that's the problem.

Any idea's?

[ironsniper1]

I don't have an idea but my grandfather has the same revolver and it's a really nice revolver, good luck and hope you fix it soon and don't forget to post pics


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[gary_boom]

Bullets not crimped enough.

[VERO1]

Is the crane/ejector rod bent? Do any of the cylinder faces show rub marks to match up with the forcing cone scratches? I used to have a Ruger Security Six that fell out of a crappy holster and landed on the side of the cylinder. It acted pretty much the same as you describe. I was lucky enough to be able to straighten it out enough without having to send it in for repair. Edited March 2, 2015 by VERO1

[res308]

Bullets not crimped enough.

Variety of standard pressure ammo. Nothing near hot enough to cause crimp jump.

Is the crane/ejector rod bent? Do any of the cylinder faces show rub marks to match up with the forcing cone scratches? I used to have a Ruger Security Six that fell out of a crappy holster and landed on the side of the cylinder. It acted pretty much the same as you describe. I was lucky enough to be able to straighten it out enough without having to send it in for repair.

I'm looking into this now. I don't have a run out gauge, but just doing a roll test on inner and outer rods, they sure don't seem bent. Turning the cylinder very slowly today, I did notice two chambers seem to be rubbing the forcing cone. I haven't put a caliper to the cylinder length yet. I'll do that tomorrow. Is there any chance it could've left the factory in the early 70's with the cylinder face out of square? If not, you would almost have to think that the rod is bent. I'll take a closer look at that cylinder face tomorrow too.
I appreciate the input.

[seez52]

Is it always the same two chambers that stick?

[DaveTN]

WAG would be either the extractor rod is backing out, or its bent. Or the yoke is bent.
Is the extractor rod tight? Are there any shims in the cylinder?

[res308]

Is it always the same two chambers that stick?

That's what it's looking like so far.

[res308]

WAG would be either the extractor rod is backing out, or its bent. Or the yoke is bent.Is the extractor rod tight? Are there any shims in the cylinder?

Extractor rod was tight. Crane doesn't appear to be bent, everything looks even. Working on the rod theory now. Waiting get ahold of a machinist I know so we can check that out more thoroughly. I didn't find any shims. Edited March 3, 2015 by res308

[graycrait]

This won't answer your specific question but it is a good run down:   http://www.friedmanhandguntraining.com/Gun_Maintenance/S&W_revolver_inspection.pdf

 

Do you notice any drag on "real" case rims?  It would seem that you might if the front of the cylinder is rubbing on the forcing cone in only one section.

 

I thought this thread interesting:  http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-731306.html

 

as was this:  http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-180726.html

 

and maybe this:  http://www.smithandwessonforums.com/forum/s-w-revolvers-1945-present/25011-629-6-hammer-cylinder-binding.html

 

or this:  http://pistolsmith.com/smith-wesson-revolvers/25064-629-cylinder-locks-up-after-few-rounds.html

 

and finally:  http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=130672

Edited March 4, 2015 by graycrait

[Guest BRainey]

I would suggest the yoke is bent... Could have been dropped or it could be from some one doing the "Hollywood flip" where they push the cylinder latch forward and flip out the cylinder and or flip it back shut again. compared to the thickness of that yoke tube, that steel cylinder is heavy and when it gets flipped open the yoke stops against the frame, but the weight of that cylinder has enough weight to bend that yoke.