Using a Lead Sled better than in own hands???

[GS455]

Isn't placing a rifle snugly in a Lead (type) Sled supposed to remove the human error factor when sighting in? I fire. I reset EXACTLY to the center of the target using the elevation and windage adjustment of the rifle stand and fire again. Now, I should get almost perfect groupings whether on or off the bulls eye - right? At least the best the rifle/ammo combo can provide - right? For some reason I do not. And this is across several platforms, glass and irons. Nothing is shifting between when I re aim the rifle+sled and when I pull the trigger. What the heck could I be doing wrong. So frustrating.

[mikegideon]

I use my lead sled on hard kickers to keep them from beating the crap out of me. I haven't had a problem getting good groups with one. I normally shoot with a good front rest and rear bag. I can't say that the lead sled does any worse than them. I have the DFT version of the Lead Sled.

[DaveTN]

You sound like you are saying you are moving the sled; not the scope adjustment. After you adjust the sled and look through the scope does it reflect the change on the target?

The sled is just a stabilizing platform and helps reduce recoil; is it moving when you fire?

[Lowpower]

imho Lead sleds serve one purpose. It allows someone who is shooting a big bore rifle the ability to get close (2-6"?) without tearing

his shoulder to shreds. If you want true accuracy the rifle can rest of a front bag and a rear bag with you adjusting the the rifle elevation by squeezing the rear bag until it's dead on. Squeeze the shot and repeat for your adjustments and groups. If you plan on shooting offhand then take a few shots offhand once you get off the bag as a rifle has a different cheek weld and hold from sitting on a bench or prone compared to offhand. 

 

If you use a tree as a crutch then repeat it at the range if able. 

 

If you're sighting in a .308, .30-06 or some other light recoiling rifle then use bags.

Lp

Edited March 2, 2015 by Lowpower

[mikegideon]

imho Lead sleds serve one purpose. It allows someone who is shooting a big bore rifle the ability to get close (2-6"?)...

Lp

 

That depends on the Lead Sled, I guess. Mine has fine windage and elevation adjustments, and will let you do real accurate shots. It's just too big and heavy to lug around.

[peejman]

Do you get better groups without the sled? (bags, bench, bipod, ...)

 

How much do you have to adjust the sled between shots? 

[mikegideon]

Do you get better groups without the sled? (bags, bench, bipod, ...)

 

How much do you have to adjust the sled between shots? 

 

Doesn't take much to move one, since it's swallowing all the recoil. I've always had to put mine back on target after every shot. 

[Omega]

Isn't placing a rifle snugly in a Lead (type) Sled supposed to remove the human error factor when sighting in? I fire. I reset EXACTLY to the center of the target using the elevation and windage adjustment of the rifle stand and fire again. Now, I should get almost perfect groupings whether on or off the bulls eye - right? At least the best the rifle/ammo combo can provide - right? For some reason I do not. And this is across several platforms, glass and irons. Nothing is shifting between when I re aim the rifle+sled and when I pull the trigger. What the heck could I be doing wrong. So frustrating.

I use my lead sled to zero my rifles in this manner. First I setup so my crosshair is right on the bull, I fire; reset to where my crosshair is again on the bull; then make adjustments to the scope so the crosshair is on the bullet strike. Adjust the rifle on the sled so that the crosshair is once again on the bull, fire again and repeat the above until my bullet strike is on the bull then repeat two more times so I have at least a three round strike on the bull. My .270 and .308 took 5 rounds to zero.


Thinks to consider:

Weight on the sled; I have two bags filled with lead shot on my sled to absorb the recoil.

Loose rings/scope; if you cant take three consecutive shots and hit within a few cm to each other then something is moving.

Cold barrel; some rifles will shoot the first round differently with a cold barrel than with a warm/hot barrel and clean vs fouled bore. If a its target rifle don't start adjusting the scope until you have at least a couple of rounds though it. If a hunting rifle, give it 10 or 15 minutes and clean the bore between shots if you plan on cleaning the bore before hunting. If you leave your bore fouled then just zero normally. I don't clean my bore unless I see major fouling or if leading occurs; I just run a clean patch through it.

And make sure you are using the same batch of ammo you plan on using to hunt or target shoot, it does make a difference.

[CM1021]

I use a lead sled for heavy recoil in rifles. Other than that I shoot off of bags. I used to use one for working up loads but an old timer at the range said I should shoot it like I would normally aND since I'm not lugging a sled around I shoot off bags now. Get the fundamentals down every time and I can shoot what the rifle is capable of.