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Input on reloading setup from experienced reloaders.


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Posted
I am looking to start reloading and curious to get some input from some of you experienced guys.... If you knew then what you know now!

What kit did you start off with and what would you change on your first setup after having some experience? I see kits from $200 up to and over $1000. I won't be reloading thousands of rounds a month as I'm mostly getting into it to make precision ammo for my 1000+ yard rifle.

Any input is greatly appreciated!



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Posted

I would just start out with a single stage press, which is inexpensive and what you really want anyway for your application.  Get yourself a good reloading manual and read it, then read it again.

  • Like 1
Posted

I am looking to start reloading and curious to get some input from some of you experienced guys.... If you knew then what you know now!

What kit did you start off with and what would you change on your first setup after having some experience? I see kits from $200 up to and over $1000. I won't be reloading thousands of rounds a month as I'm mostly getting into it to make precision ammo for my 1000+ yard rifle.

Any input is greatly appreciated!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would start with the Lee turret press. I don't load thousands of rounds per session so a turret does fine for me and with it I can do a few hundred in one session. I spend my money on powder, bullets and primers instead of the so called hi-end reloaders and equipment. I started with the Lee single stage press in an anniversary kit which included most everything I needed even a set of dies which were 9mm for me (now they are separate). As I progressed I got the turret press and even though it indexes to the next stage, I still use it as a single stage due to how I reload. You will eventually want to get things like an electronic scale, and maybe a better powder measure but the kit has everything you need to get started. In dies, I like Lee, you will hear many decry the brand but I and many others have used them and they load a good quality bullet. If you are a competition shooter, or have that kind of money, then you won't go wrong with other brands but if you are just a plinker or hunter then Lee will do just fine. If you can, get with someone that reloads in your area and see if they will mentor you and show you their setup and let you use their equipment to reload a few of your bullets. This way you will get the feel of what you like and don't like before you commit to a brand or type of reloader.
Posted
Loading for long range shooting is different than just loading plinking ammo.

A turret press of any brand is not going to cut it IMO. I just sold my RCBS turret because I only used it in single stage, and a single stage press does not have the flex of the turret which means more consistent ammo.

That does not mean you cannot load accurate ammo with a turret press, just that runout tends to be higher.
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

For mid/long range shooting I would consider this a minimum and it's still not everything I use.

 

1) RCBS Rock Chucker single stage press. It's solid, cheap if bought used, normally around $50-75.

2) A decent set of reloading dies for your caliber. Used average $15-20. New check places like MidwayUSA.

3) A case cleaning electric tumbler, either wet or dry. Used at Pawnshops or at Estate sales around $30 on up.

4) You'll need a loading tray to sit the cases up in while getting them ready. $10 or less.

5) Case lube for when you de-prime/resize/prime cases. Couple of bucks.

6) Case trimmer to cut the cases to length as they will expand after firing. Used $35-75. Check pawn shops.

7) A case mouth hand uniformer. $10 or so used. Maybe $5 if you look around

8) A primer pocket uniformer tool. $10 at most gun shops, sport goods stores.

9 A good scale, either manual or electronic to get consistent powder charges. My RCBS 750 was new for around $100 or so and works fine.

10) A funnel to drop the charge into the case. A couple of bucks.

 

One other optional thing you might look into is a case neck turner. They're probably average around $35-50. Imho it uniforms the neck tension on the bullet. You might turn the neck thickness on a .308 case to .0012. Since you;re just starting out so I'd skip this for the first 6 months or so unless you have unlimited funds and just gotta go for it. 

 

Optional things are = to just how anal a reloader wants to get in order to get that nth degree of accuracy. Once you get past the reading stages you begin to do one more thing to close that group even more. It's not normally that "one more thing" that closes the group but a conglomeration of little this that you do consistently that helps close the group. When that's all done then you gotta learn to shoot accurately at those distances. 

 

Imho turret presses have their place on reloading and they're used for high quantity, quality reloading. I have a Dillon 550B and use it for pretty much everything anymore. They have their own set of issues and might be a good second press after you understand the ins and outs of reloading. For instance, its really easy to double charge a pistol bullet. It's very hard to double charge most rifle loads because normally the case will be 70-90% full so a double charge will overflow the case when you pour it.  I also have 3-4 single stage presses cause Im lazy and I got them cheaply. I use one for pulling bullets. One as a de-primer for my big .45-70 and .45-100 cases. I don't neck size this because I use huge freight trains for bullets...500 to 550 gr lead cast round nose bullets that have more than enough bullet/case tension. My last one I just throw one whatever other die I might need to use. My .45-100 sometimes needs to have the case mouth expanded so I set and leave a die in one press. 

 

As you learn more you will probably change out equipment to more precise presses, etc. The good news is you can sell off what you don;t want anymore and buy replacements with the money. Or you can put the older pieces to good use.

 

I'd buy the book, Handloading for Competition. There's tons of good info in it. 

Ild also suggest any shooting book by David Tubbs he is an outstanding rifleman.

 

Lp

Edited by Lowpower
Posted (edited)

If your plan on making 1,000 yard ammo focus on good brass, brass prep and neck tension. Good dies to reduce runout as posted above is also crucial.

 

Lapua brass is worth the extra coin. You won't need to sort and prep near as much. 

Edited by Tempest455
Posted (edited)

I am looking to start reloading and curious to get some input from some of you experienced guys.... If you knew then what you know now!

What kit did you start off with and what would you change on your first setup after having some experience? I see kits from $200 up to and over $1000. I won't be reloading thousands of rounds a month as I'm mostly getting into it to make precision ammo for my 1000+ yard rifle.

Any input is greatly appreciated!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

you are in luck, the cheaper setups are single stage presses and those are also the most useful for going slow and making precision ammo.    you will still want a GOOD single stage press that can handle the extra force needed on large rifle cases (assuming you are using a larger rifle case, or someday might).  

 

Save your funds on the press, and use them to get a good scale.  Precision means using a very good scale, instead of a cheap one.  Mine cost 15 bucks and varies by like 2.5 or so grains, maybe more.   That works for my mass produced junk ammo, but for serious shooting, it would be pretty bad.   I don't know what sort of scale you need but pay attention to the +- error of it.

 

 

Lots of people will have advice for making precision ammo... I am not shooting 1k yards but weigh each bullet, collect a set that all weigh the same.  Unless you spend big on them bullets can vary quite a bit in weight for heavy calibers.   This is just something I noticed with my own rifle bullets but I do buy cheap stuff... 

 

you might also want a quality brass trimmer and some of the case prep widgets.   All the cases gotta be the same.. knocking off burrs and trimming evenly etc matter more for you.

Edited by Jonnin

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