Parkerizing....

[Guest Broomhead]

So, I want to parkerize the slide of my KT P-11. I need to seal off the firing pin "hole/tube/etc", all the screw holes, and all the holes for pins, correct? Anything special I should seal them with, or will anything rubber/silicone-based and heat-resistant work? I have everything I need, including the PPE, I just need this little tidbit of info. I'm using a spare slide for my gun, so I'm not ruining a gun. I do NOT have the money to have it done professionally, and I really want to try this on my own, I'm insistent on it actually, so please don't try to talk me out of it. Just help me out if you can, please. Edited January 10, 2015 by Broomhead

[seez52]

The only thing I've ever plugged up when parking is a shotgun bore. Just so it would still be shinny when finished.  Might also a non chrome lined rifle or pistol bore. Your cleaning prep is the most critical for a good job.

[LawEnforcementSalesTN]

I use silicon plugs when I do all my refinishing - parkerizing or cerakoting.  Which solution are you going to use?  The Zinc is more crystalize but the Maganese you shouldn't have to worry with much. Would be best if you could plug but unless you have very tight tolerences you should be ok... I don't recall every having any reassembly problems on the ones I've done. 

 

Not trying to talk you out of it and by any means if you're set for it, doooooo it ;o) .... I am trying to help and don't mean to assume what you know or don't know but I can offer my knowledge and you can take what you need from it.... if you don't have the stuff now setting things up for one job can get costly in itself. The solution has to be heated to a specific range, then pre-treated (before firstime use - I use a steel wool pad). I guess one could do this with an old pot and stove and thermometer at minumum.  Just be careful, the solution puts off fumes when it's heated, very caustic... I have to wipe my equipment down when I do it in my shop as 5-10 feet away my lathes, chucks and other metal parts will rust just from fumes... I rememeber when I started years ago my wife and I were fighting and the day after I'd done a few receivers, I walked into my shop and would have sworn she sprayed my equipment with the water hose ;o) ....

 

Above all, I would highly recommend NOT doing this inside a house or anything.

 

I made my 1st tanks with heating elements from a water heater.. it takes 20-30 minutes to reach operating temperature but beats a $1000 gas heater and the mess that goes along with that.

 

But the process is very simple to accomplish and can be rewarding.

[Guest Broomhead]

Thanks for the info LESTN, I do appreciate it. I'm using the manganese solution, if I remember correctly that's the blacker one. The tolerances aren't that tight on any of the holes, so I won't worry about plugging them, except maybe the firing pin channel.

I will be using a very old, super thick pressure cooker pot, whose lid is no longer safe for the pot's intended use, a digital meat/food thermometer, and a smaller version of the burner on my forge. I guessing the fumes aren't flammable/explosive, correct? I will NOT be doing this indoors, period. My wife and mom (we're in a "MIL's" apartment) would murder me in the most grisly way they could think of. I'll be outdoors for sure. It will also keep the fumes/chemicals away from all of my equipment.

[LawEnforcementSalesTN]

Yep the maganese will be a little darker..When I do one, I'll parkerize all the metal parts even if I plan to cerakote.  Takes a little longer but makes me feel better the protection is there in case it's knicked or scraped.  Plus I haven't found a better undercoat for cerakoting than the park .. both solutions crystalize to an extent and provide excellent adhesion properties for any top coat.

 

Fumes are flammable but seeing what they do to the metal that's not in the tank I wanted to really point across the need to ventilate well.  I have a big squirel fan I'll fire up and blow too.

 

Just caught your avatar, you're use to dealing with metal and burners and such so you're probably a lot closer to doing this than I'd originally though.   It's not bad, blueing is much much worse but safety as you know is paramount.

 

The Lauer solution from Midway is the cheapest and does ok but I feel the Brownell's version does better IMHO.

 

 

Post pics when you're ready and best of luck

[Dolomite_supafly]

I did something that looks and acts like parkerizing. I blasted the gun using medium aluminum oxide at a very high psi. I was running the psi at 110+ And with the course aluminum oxide it gave a finish that, once blued and oiled, looks identical to an parkerized gun that was oiled.

After thoroughly media blasting I used Brownells Oxpho Blue CREME. I think the key to a nice looking finish is the Creme. It stays in place and gives a very nice, even finish that takes oil very well.

I have never parkerized anything so I admire anyone who can.

[Guest Broomhead]

Fumes are flammable but seeing what they do to the metal that's not in the tank I wanted to really point across the need to ventilate well.

 

Hmm...My burner is more like a large propane torch, smaller than a weed burning torch, but bigger than a handheld canister type (still very controllable though). If I'm outside in completely open air, and the fumes blow down wind, or are fan-forced away, do you think I would be safe and not ignite the fumes? I mean, I've accidentally vented propane down wind from my forge, which runs at +1200*F, and didn't have a boom or fireball. I did almost have a heart attack, though.

 

Dolomite, that sounds like it be a good way to get a parkerized-esque finish. But, alas, I do not have a sand blaster...yet. It's on my list of equipment to acquire, but the budget hasn't been talking to my list lately, lol.

 

I actually need to include Blacksmith into my avatar subheading, lol. I deal with really, really hot stuff with that. There's a shirt I want to have made, it says "Blacksmith" on the front and on the back it says, "because Badass isn't a job title."

Edited January 10, 2015 by Broomhead

[LawEnforcementSalesTN]

Sorry that should have said NOT flamable .. didn't proof it well enough ;o) sorry for the scare... I smoke cigars like a fish breathes water so I know they're not flamable nor does the occasional ash hurt the solition when I'm leaning over looking ;o)

 

Sorry you're good as long as you're not sitting over it breathing it in for any period of time

[Guest Broomhead]

Sorry that should have said NOT flamable .. didn't proof it well enough ;o) sorry for the scare... I smoke cigars like a fish breathes water so I know they're not flamable nor does the occasional ash hurt the solition when I'm leaning over looking ;o)

 

Sorry you're good as long as you're not sitting over it breathing it in for any period of time

 

Gotcha. Thanks. :up: