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Broken screw. Best plan of action?


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Posted

I have a screw broken on top of the receiver in this Marlin 336. This particular screw is threaded all the way through. What's the best way to get it out?
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Posted

Extractor is the best way.  Just be careful. 

 

Might want to watch this too:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K34RS6M11uw

Posted

Yeah I have those but I have read the small ones will break easily and cause more issues. I was thinking of drilling a smal hole in the drill press and the trying to hammer a slightly larger torx bit into it.

Posted

Drill as close as possible to the actual diameter, and that ez out will work.  My buddies who know me know that I will break bolts, round nuts, and bascially screw up anything like this on anything I touch.  I have lots and lots of experience.  The hammer method will work to, but I am concerned about how to best secure your gun and the oops that can occur. 

Posted

Drill as close as possible to the actual diameter, and that ez out will work.  My buddies who know me know that I will break bolts, round nuts, and bascially screw up anything like this on anything I touch.  I have lots and lots of experience.  The hammer method will work to, but I am concerned about how to best secure your gun and the oops that can occur. 

What's the hammer method?

Posted

Bascially try to cut an angle, and use a cold chiesel to hammer at an angle. But something this small, I am not sure.  But I would try the ez out method first.

Posted

Bascially try to cut an angle, and use a cold chiesel to hammer at an angle. But something this small, I am not sure.  But I would try the ez out method first.

Oh yeah I'd screw that up no pun intended.

Posted (edited)

Since you have a drill press handy, I'd drill it. Maybe a small pilot hole first, then work your way up. The threads should come out with the drill bit once you get to a large enough size. If not, chase them out with a tap.

 

The e-z outs I've tried were very hard and break easy.

Edited by gregintenn
  • Administrator
Posted

Gun smith. Call the one at Guns & Leather in Greenbrier.

I would not try that myself and I am handy with tools, industrial maintenance.

 

Wise words right there.  I've had machining experience in my distant past and that one would make me pucker up.

Posted (edited)

If you have access to a drill press, try a left handed drill bit that is smaller than the tap drill size for the screw.  Use low rpm counter clockwise and a soft touch.  Many times the drill will catch and back the screw out.  If not then this hole can be used with an easy out.

Edited by sbeck37923
  • Like 2
Posted

WOW ! That was easy........ I drilled one small hole then a second larger hole.....tapped in the easy out and she screwed right out. I sincerely believe I will never get that lucky on something like this again.

  • Like 4
Posted

Don't know the size, but a dentist could take a drill and maybe slot it so a flathead would work. I'd be willing to try.

Thanks for the offer.


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Posted

If you're removing screws installed by someone else, maybe years before, I usually apply a little heat to the screw head (soldering iron tip) before applying a bunch of force to remove it. People will apply a little loctite to scope mount screws, and the heat will loosen it. Plus the heat will expand the screw slightly, loosening any rust between hole and screw. Just my $.02 .

Posted

If you're removing screws installed by someone else, maybe years before, I usually apply a little heat to the screw head (soldering iron tip) before applying a bunch of force to remove it. People will apply a little loctite to scope mount screws, and the heat will loosen it. Plus the heat will expand the screw slightly, loosening any rust between hole and screw. Just my $.02 .

 I agree. I believe when I drilled it out the heat that was generated helped break loose the crud. I don't think they used loctite but there is some kind of film under the rail that is being a bear to get off. Maybe some type of epoxy or something. I am going to have to stock up on some better solvents that hoppes and rem oil.

Posted

I agree. I believe when I drilled it out the heat that was generated helped break loose the crud. I don't think they used loctite but there is some kind of film under the rail that is being a bear to get off. Maybe some type of epoxy or something. I am going to have to stock up on some better solvents that hoppes and rem oil.

Might just be really old gun oil that's worked its way under there. That stuff can turn nasty with age.

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