Grandpa Tom's 12 Gauge...

[Guest Broomhead]

Even though I was probably the last person with any claim to it, I inherited my Grandpa Tom's 12ga shotgun. He passed away in January of this year. I am the youngest of the eight grand kids, but thanks to my wonderful mother, whose father Grandpa was, and the fact that none the ones(just two besides myself) that showed up to help clean out his house had asked about it, and none of the other grand kids even came, I was granted the honor. It isn't anything special as far as monetary value is concerned, but it's special to me and I feel privileged to now own it. I miss him and this helps keep him with me.

 

It's a Ward's Western Field model 60-SB620-A, which was made by Stevens/Savage, circa 1927-1945. It is equivalent to a modern Savage 620 and, from what I've read, the parts are interchangeable. This shotgun was manufactured before the advent of the disconnect...Yep, that's right...It slam fires like a boss! I've always wanted a shotgun that slam fires.

 

It's in good shape for being such an old timer. The finish on the stock and forearm is worn and chipped, the butt pad has become somewhat brittle, there's surface rust on the receiver, barrel, bore, mag tube, and various other parts, the action arm (?) has broken and been welded back together (just barely longer as I've discovered), the slot in the screw to remove the trigger housing has been stripped, and the bolt that holds the butt stock on is frozen. The action is a tad sticky/stiff, but everything functions flawlessly.

 

On to the pictures and then a couple questions.

 

 

Questions:

1. Best way to remove the surface rust without damaging, or with minimal damage to, the bluing?

 

2. What is this ring from and is it a problem?

 

C. How in the heck do I get this screw out without damaging the receiver? There's no room to cut a deeper slot and I'd really rather not damage the screw, but I'm pretty sure I can get a new one from Numrich if need be. I need to remove the trigger guard in order to remove the bolt and clean it and the inside of the receiver.

 

4. Removing rust spots in the bore?

 

5. How do I thaw out the bolt that holds the butt stock on? I've tried a screwdriver and even holding a screwdriver with a pair of channel locks for more leverage, neither even budged it.

 

I think I'll eventually buy a shorter barrel, or cut one down if I can't find a shorter one, to use for HD and keep the original barrel so I can return it to original if I decide to.

Edited December 17, 2014 by Broomhead

[Jonnin]

1) You can try whatever but sanding it off and refinishing is the best.  Even if that means spot sanding and refinish with a "blue touch up" or something.  You can remove it electrically but I don't know what that will do to the bluing nor how you would refinish it from there.  By sanding I mean emory paper, not the stuff you use to take paint off concrete.

 

2) choke? maybe?

 

3) new screw, and get it out however... first try nondestructive methods --- kroil it to death, and try to get enough torque on it to get it out.  If you can't, drill into it and countersink it out with a screw removal thingy (which is basically a hardened screw that has reversed threads so screws into yours until tight which then is the reverse direction so it torques it).

 

4)  gently.   Just keep running a bore brush thru it until it comes clean, from the look of it.  again, might try electric removal.  Dremel has "about a 12 ga" "chore boy" type thingy that might go on a cleaning rod.... :)   I have no clue what it is called but I am absolutely sure its 12ga in size...

 

5) again, kroil first, brute force later. 

 

my unasked for 2 cents... if you are going to shoot it, do a full restoration... see if you can replace that welded part and get it back into good shape.  If you are just going for an heirloom, get rid of the rust and leave it be. 

Edited December 17, 2014 by Jonnin

[peejman]

Cool!

Surface rust - light steel wool and wipe it down with oil?

Screw - penetrating oil for a while. Then use a small punch to tap on it to rotate it out. If that doesn't work, a gunsmith or machinist can get it out with a screw extractor, which isn't real difficultit you want to DIY. An impact driver might also get it out.

Buttstock bolt - also penetrating oil for a while, then impact driver.

Bore rust - brass bore brush and scrub, scrub, scrub.

[Ted S.]

Nice boom boom.

 

I'm no gunsmith, and there are many here that have much better advice than I will have, but I will at least yellow up the snow untill others make, hopefully, better suggestions...

 

1. Anything abrasive will abrade all surfaces you "rub" it against, even 0000 steel wool. I would personally remove all wood furniture, and soak all the rusty parts with some WD 40 for a few days, then wipe them clean (carefully though, and keep in mind any particulates that "loosen up" from the WD 40 have the potential to scratch or mar anything they rub up against when you wipe the parts down. Not necessarily bad, but there is potential. Cheap microfiber towels will prevent that from happening at least a little) After wiping it down, you could media blast it with a least aggressive media and move up. I would just use 0000 steel wool if it was me, I don't have a media blaster....

 

2. Lord of the Rings????

 

C. They make special bits for drills that can "dig in" to the screw and help you get it out. If you've had it soaking with a penetrating lubricant (WD 40), you could see if there is enough material to just us a slotted screw, but the bits would be easier. Just make sure you have a replacement screw before you mess it up!

 

4. WD 40 soak, various bore brushes, patients.

 

5. Pics of this screw??? You could try a breaker bar with an extender, then your bit on the end, but can't know till I see it.

 

Just what I would do if it were mine, I'm sure guys on here have better advise.

Edited December 17, 2014 by Ted S.

[Sidinman]

Congrats. this song comes to mind.

Oh well couldn't get the link to the video.

http://www.google.com/url?url=http://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DH74RqPzKrY0&rct=j&frm=1&q=&esrc=s&sa=U&ei=BcqQVPKGN8WnNsWCgogG&ved=0CBUQtwIwAA&usg=AFQjCNFDosAte7T4vkDHf-XvfIpsyc5JFwGrandaddy's Gun by Aaron Lewis

[Guest Broomhead]

5. Pics of this screw??? You could try a breaker bar with an extender, then your bit on the end, but can't know till I see it.

 

Here is the head of the bolt down in the hole.

 

[URL=http://s432.photobucket.com/user/Broomheads/media/20141216_204318_zps3f6f89b9.jpg.html][/URL]

 

And this would be how far it sits down into the stock.

 

[URL=http://s432.photobucket.com/user/Broomheads/media/20141216_204615_zps38700efe.jpg.html][/URL]

 

 

2) choke? maybe?

 

It's not set up for a choke. Probably just worn down from thousands of shells being shot through it.

[Ted S.]

Ah, do you have any mechanics tools? A ratchet with and extension piece should be able to get that easy. Just use a slotted bit that is as close as possible to the size of the slot on the bolt. You may have to put the reciever in a vice if that doesn't give you enough leverage, but at the same time, if you can't get that with a ratchet, you may have bigger problems.

[Guest kingarmory]

The metal will need to be sandblasted and parkerized, probably the best way of refinishing those.  The bore can be easily cleaned out with a barrel hone, you can send us the barrel if you don't have a hone and I'll get it polished out for ya.

[Murgatroy]

Even if it is not threaded for a choke, the barrel is set up as a choke. That is what the ring is.

[Guest kingarmory]

This is a crappy pic, but we restored one just like that awhile back

 

[Guest kingarmory]

Even if it is not threaded for a choke, the barrel is set up as a choke. That is what the ring is.

 

 

Yup, someone may have had the barrel "jug choked"

[Guest Broomhead]

Ah, do you have any mechanics tools? A ratchet with and extension piece should be able to get that easy. Just use a slotted bit that is as close as possible to the size of the slot on the bolt. You may have to put the reciever in a vice if that doesn't give you enough leverage, but at the same time, if you can't get that with a ratchet, you may have bigger problems.

 

Yep, I've got some of that stuff lying around...just a matter of finding it. I will have to wait for my hands to heal though. I just had surgery on Saturday on both hands for carpal tunnel.

 

Even if it is not threaded for a choke, the barrel is set up as a choke. That is what the ring is.

 

Ah, gotcha. It doesn't say anywhere on the barrel what the choke is, how can I find out what it is?

 

The metal will need to be sandblasted and parkerized, probably the best way of refinishing those.  The bore can be easily cleaned out with a barrel hone, you can send us the barrel if you don't have a hone and I'll get it polished out for ya.

 

Uh...Yeah...Not really sure I want to go that drastic with sandblasting and parkerizing. Money is too tight to do much of anything besides DIY. I'd love to be able to do more, but life is really f__ked up right now.

 

 

 

Numrich is sold out of the operating handle bar (the welded part). Any other places with gun parts similar to Numrich?

[RED333]

Since time is on your side, do not do a thing.

1st, spray with oil and wipe it down WELL.

2nd, soak the screws as best you can with some kind of rust breaker.

3rd, repete as needed to work the screws loose, try making them tighter just a bit at first.

PLEASE DO NOT REFINISH THE OLD GIRL.

[Guest Broomhead]

PLEASE DO NOT REFINISH THE OLD GIRL.

 

Don't worry Red, I'm trying to do the least drastic, least damaging methods that I possibly can. I want to remove the rust and touch up the bluing if needed afterward. I want to clean every square inch of it that I can and lube it really good. I'd like to replace the screw from the trigger guard and the welded operating handle bar, but that would be about it as far as the original parts go. If I can find one, I'd like to get, or make, a shorter barrel, but that would be using a barrel other than the original.

[zgunbear]

For the light surface rust 00 brass wool with kerosene and penetrating oil. Mix the kerosene and gun oil 50/50. Then take a small piece, think finger tip sized, of the brass wool and do little-known circles over the rust. Use lots of the oil mix on the brass wool. It should get rid of the rust with out too much finish damage. If the action is sticky do not use WD40. It can glue a gun shut. Once it evaporates it leaves behind a lacquer that can make things worse. Use krill on the stock bolt then a ratchet once you get the bolt out take the stock off and set it aside. Soak the whole gun except for the for end in the same oil mix above then go over it with a stiff/firm toothbrush. You will get a ton of the crap off of it that way. For the screw with the goober head kroil the hell out of it or use P B Blaster or any penetrating oil. IM me. I ama gunsmith and can give you some more ideas