Bobbing a J-Frame Hammer

[maroonandwhite]

I have decided I am going to bob the hammer on my 637 J-Frame. I have tried to adjust to covering the hammer with my thumb when drawing but I'd just rather be able to get a full firing grip on the gun when drawing. I believe this is something I could do myself pretty easily but I just wanted to see if anyone on here has done it themselves. If so I have a few questions:

 

1. How much did you remove?
2. Did you reblue the hammer or just polish it?
3. Any light strike concerns?
4. Dremel or hacksaw?

Also I am not against taking it to a gunsmith but I have no idea what they charge for that and I don't want to spend alot of money on it if I can do it.

[gregintenn]

The hammer should be color case hardened; not blued. It would probably look o.k. to touch up the spot with cold blue.

 

I would suggest buying another hammer to cut the spur off, and keeping your hammer in case you would one day like to return the gun to it's original configuration.

 

I would cut the entire spur off, and finish the area with a file, and then emory cloth.

 

You could just trade it for a 642.

[maroonandwhite]

The hammer should be color case hardened; not blued. It would probably look o.k. to touch up the spot with cold blue.

 

I would suggest buying another hammer to cut the spur off, and keeping your hammer in case you would one day like to return the gun to it's original configuration.

 

I would cut the entire spur off, and finish the area with a file, and then emory cloth.

 

You could just trade it for a 642.

 

I actually just don't like the way the centennials look with the hump though the main reason I'd have a tough time trading is the finish on this one is peeling along the backstrap area. From what I've read that's just a clear coat and pretty normal but I would guess I'd have a hard time trading it. 

 

One of the special edition models has a polished hammer that looked nice but I'm not sure how hard it would be to polish. Would this be an expensive job at a gunsmith? I plan on calling around but I hate to ask someone to quote something over the phone like that.

[frankmako]

it is not hard to do.  i have done several over the years.  but before you start i would look to see if you can find one for sale.  they pop up on ebay and other sites.  when i did them i used a hacksaw for the first cut.  then i shaped with small hand files, bench grinder, and/or a dremel.  i never had any light strike problems.  the ones that i did look as good as factory.  i found one on ebay several months ago, now i need a j-frame to go with it.  call s&w to see if they have one.  i have gotten small parts from them this summer when i was working one a j-frame basket case that i gotten.  

[maroonandwhite]

it is not hard to do.  i have done several over the years.  but before you start i would look to see if you can find one for sale.  they pop up on ebay and other sites.  when i did them i used a hacksaw for the first cut.  then i shaped with small hand files, bench grinder, and/or a dremel.  i never had any light strike problems.  the ones that i did look as good as factory.  i found one on ebay several months ago, now i need a j-frame to go with it.  call s&w to see if they have one.  i have gotten small parts from them this summer when i was working one a j-frame basket case that i gotten.  

Good idea. Don't know why I didn't think of that.

[gregintenn]

It shouldn't be too terribly expensive. It also shouldn't be hard to do yourself. Ifave bare you choose to polish the hammer, remember that it is not stainless. It will rust without proper care. The color case hardening is a finish that, like blueing, will help prevent rust. Polish it off, and you'll have bare carbon steel, not unlike the bolt in many bolt action rifles.

[Lowpower]

go here...

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/General.mvc/Index/VideoLibrary

 

goto gun projects/smith and wesson revolver/how to remove a hammer spur....

 

 

Good luck

Lp

[maroonandwhite]

Well I went ahead and did it. I could have done a better job with the right tools but for this utility gun I am happy. Let me know what you think!

[maroonandwhite]

[maroonandwhite]

I started by getting the largest part off with the hack saw followed by shaping with a grinding wheel. I shaped it more finely with the dremel and finished with fine grit sandpaper and mothers mag polish. I like the shiny look but will probably get some cold blue to finish it.

[maroonandwhite]

I have been assuming that cold blue would help prevent rust but looking online it seems that may not be the case. Will it help at all? If not I may just leave it shiny.

[frankmako]

looks good to me.  they are not hard to do.  

[maroonandwhite]

looks good to me.  they are not hard to do.  

The overall job; not very hard. That first cut however..... :ugh:

[gregintenn]

I have been assuming that cold blue would help prevent rust but looking online it seems that may not be the case. Will it help at all? If not I may just leave it shiny.

I wouldn't think so. As far as I know, it is just to try and improve the appearance of a bad spot. I'd leave it as is if it looks to suit you.

[maroonandwhite]

I wouldn't think so. As far as I know, it is just to try and improve the appearance of a bad spot. I'd leave it as is if it looks to suit you.

I may try it anyways. Can't hurt to have some of that stuff on hand. Now that I'll have a workshop I can start acquiring these things.  :pleased:

 

As another note when I had this thing apart I used the white stone from my sharpmaker to polish up the internal parts and finished it off with some mothers mag polish. It didn't change the felt pull weight but man did it smooth it up. I am now contemplating a new spring kit but don't know if I need to go lighter since I just cut half of the hammer off.

[frankmako]

The overall job; not very hard. That first cut however..... :ugh:

The first cut is all ways the hardest cut. Once you start you know that you can not go back. Even today when I do one the first cut is still hard. Edited October 28, 2014 by frankmako

[maroonandwhite]

The first cut is all ways the hardest cut. Once you start you know that you can not go back. Even today when I do one the first cut is still hard.

It's easier on something like that though. If I know I can buy a replacement part I'm OK.

[gregintenn]

I may try it anyways. Can't hurt to have some of that stuff on hand. Now that I'll have a workshop I can start acquiring these things.  :pleased:

 

As another note when I had this thing apart I used the white stone from my sharpmaker to polish up the internal parts and finished it off with some mothers mag polish. It didn't change the felt pull weight but man did it smooth it up. I am now contemplating a new spring kit but don't know if I need to go lighter since I just cut half of the hammer off.

I'd prefer a good, solid primer strike to a lighter trigger pull; especially on a self defense handgun. A little polishing on the engagement surfaces is a big help in smoothing the action.

[Patton]

Light primer strikes normally occur only with the Taurus revolvers after a bob job has been done, but after the bob I could see a trigger job risking the possibility though.

[A.J. Holst]

Looks great! I'd leave it shiny and do the extra maintenance to fight surface rust.

[ohell]

Looks good. If you did not eliminate the ability to use it in single action keep in mind it can be dangerous in the hands of a novice. Deco king can be fun ;)

[graycrait]

Just get a copy of Jerry Miculek's "Trigger Job." When buying spurless hammers some hand fitting will likely be required. This hand fitting can be confounding for a beginner.