Bent Upper? Advise Please!

[SupaRice]

Total n00b stuff right here, but need some sage advice.

 

Found out through trial and error that apparently if you want an AR that you should never try to disassemble, then by a S&W M&P....

 

I bought the optics ready version, and wanted to change out the hand guard for a longer free float one. So off has to come the gas block and the barrel nut. The optics ready version has this goofy looking gas block that is put on with like terminator force on the pin, and just to keep things interesting they decided to put the pin in BACKWARDS from every other gun out there. It takes some SERIOUS mojo to knock that little pin out....

 

 

 

So then I was trying to get this barrel nut off.... without the receiver vise block.  ...  Mistake.   :doh:

 

I'm pretty sure I bowed the side of the receiver just below the ejection port. So I squeezed it a tad with some pliers and I think it's pretty well back to straight, or damn close anyway. I really didn't have to squeeze it much.

 

Should I be worried about this? And how much freaking force do they put on this damn thing anyway?!

 

Right here is where it was bowed out:

 

 

 

 

[Luke E.]

 So did you stick something in the upper in an attempt to hold the receiver still and that's how it got bent? Just curious but it really doesn't matter at this point huh ;) As long as the bolt carrier slide back and forth in the receiver like it is supposed to then it shouldn't be a problem. Did you ever get the barrel off?

[SupaRice]

I used two blocks of wood that I cut to fit the receiver, top and bottom, and then put it in my bench vise. But the damn barrel nut is on there so tight I guess it torqued the receiver a little. Nope, barrel is still on. :-\

Edited October 4, 2014 by SupaRice

[Luke E.]

 I would heat the barrel nut up a bit and then spray the barrel with an upside down can of compressed air like they use to clean computer keyboard, etc with. Spray it right by the barrel nut and see how that works for you. If this wasn't clear just let me know and I'll explain a little better.

[Raoul]

I'm confused. All that for a handguard swap?

[Clod Stomper]

Let me preface by saying that I've screwed up all kinds of machinery in my life.  Because I'm curious and like to tinker, I have no fear of taking something apart.  I've learned a lot from my innumerable mistakes.  One of the most important things I've learned is this...  Use the right tool for the job.

 

That said, It doesn't appear that you've ruined the upper.  If the bolt carrier still slides back and forth smoothly, it should be good to go.  If not, a replacement upper can be had for forty bucks.  Sheesh, I've done waaay more expensive damage than that.  

 

Oh, BTW.  Always measure the ends of a taper pin before trying to punch it out.  Even if the first hundred were all the same direction, always measure.  Ask me how I learned that lesson.

 

Aaaand one more thing.  I have found that it's better to press pins in and out than to hammer them.  May not always be possible, but it takes less energy if it is.

[Garufa]

Kroil is your friend when working on factory assemblages.  If you need to force it, get some.

[R_Bert]

  Sheesh, I've done waaay more expensive damage than that.  

 

Me too. Routinely.  I **** up more stuff before noon than most folks manage to do all day. Heck, I usually do it before most folks finish their morning coffee.

 

And, if you ain't dead-nuts sure, always ask around *before* you do the job, not after.

 

 

[Once, I started my day out by watching a $150K, 75 lb  radiation detector descend two flights of stairs (about 50' total).  By itself.  Not me, but my team, my problem.  The rest of the week did not go well either.]

Edited October 5, 2014 by R_Bert

[Dolomite_supafly]

They do make free float tubes that use the factory barrel nut. There is no need to remove the factory barrel nut or the barrel and in most cases you do not even need to remove the gas block or gas tube. And they are actually cheaper than a lot of the free float tubes that use their proprietary barrel nuts.

The first 5 on this page all clamp tot he factory barrel nut and do nto require anything to be removed as long as it will fit under the tube:

https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/browse&category=railedforearms_rainierarms

You will have to dremel the delta ring and spring off but other than that it is pretty straightforward.

 

BTW, the cost of the proper tools is a lot less than the cost of a stripped upper. Do you have a barrel nut wrench?

 

I have found that a sharp rap with a hammer can loosen some nuts that brute force cannot. And, as Garufa said, heat can help loosen stubborn barrel nuts.

 

If the BCG does not bind then it should be fine.