Starting to get into reloading...

[MrBrian]

I've been thinking about starting to reload for the past few years, but it got put on the back burner when all the primers/supplies got so hard to find during the ammo shortage we just went thru....  Now that I'm seeing powders and stuff come back on the shelves, I've started my research back up...     

I have yet to buy a press, although I'm leaning towards the Dillon xl650....      I'm planning on loading mostly 9mm, .357 mag, and then maybe some 45 acp.  Then once I get comfortable loading handgun calibers, I may step up to .223 and 7.62x39.    I'm slowly building my arsenal of reloading equipment, got an ultrasonic cleaner today, and I've been collecting little things like digital calipers, bullet pullers, scales, sorting bins, and got my workbenches built and ready for a press.    

My questions for you all right now, are what kind of reloading manuals would you recommend getting?   I wasn't sure if one brand was better or more thorough than others.....   I also didn't know if these manuals usually cover a wide span of different powders or if each powder company made their own manuals...      I also was wondering if dies for presses are universal or if they'll only work on certain presses...  For instance, if I get the Dillon press, will I be able to use Lee or RCBS dies with it....

Also, right now, I'll probably be using Alliant powders....  but again, I haven't bought anything....   

[Jonnin]

dies are sort of universal but I *think* Dillon requires their own type.  But lee fits in rcbs press etc for the single stage and turret types.  Someone else will have to comment on Dillon to be sure, but the dies are certainly interchangeable amongst the single stage press vendors. 

 

the generic manuals have many powders, lee manual for example will list many powders. 

 

If you understand the process, and are short on $$,  I often recommend just skipping the manuals and downloading the current info from your powder manufacturer.  Every powder company has an online, free manual with load data that is good enough to start. 

 

223 needs a case trimmer so that's another budget sink.  The cheap one for a drill from lee works but if you want a LOT of ammo it gets old.  I gave in and bought a better trimmer as I was making a lot of 223 and cutting up a lot of 9mm (to make 9x18).  7.62 can be hardish to find brass for.   Most of the spent cases are steel.

[56FordGuy]

dies are sort of universal but I *think* Dillon requires their own type. But lee fits in rcbs press etc for the single stage and turret types. Someone else will have to comment on Dillon to be sure, but the dies are certainly interchangeable amongst the single stage press vendors.

The Dillon 550 and 650 presses take standard dies.

[Tedro2022]

I have a Dillon XL650 and love it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Patton]

As far as manuals I have no issues with my Hornady book. I often go online though and then turn to my book.

[ohell]

nothing wrong with buying a single stage press to stay in tune with each cycle before mass production begins.  when reloading, things more important than speed are: facial conservation, phalange retention, firearm preservation.  any of those can be in jeopardy with box ammunition as well,  which is one reason some folks reload.

won't be up for long.  please support those you found useful. most are unobtainable these days.  

https://www.mediafire.com/folder/0mgupkamfcjrjq9,istmap2f3gdzz8f,p03ltdeyp5htmqm,istmap2f3gdzz8f,yfekgazbinpddt5,6hebccl57hufqib,rz2g5raah15ccc7,2w6h4up6b7cytdl,c6ys8acq6acbgbs/shared

a few more added

Edited August 29, 2014 by ohell

[Sidewinder]

I reload on an old rock Chucker, single stage, for pistol and rifle, and MEC 600 Jrs for shotshell in .410, 20 Ga., and 12 Gauge. The progressive presses are faster...and it you hit a glitch, can mess up a lot of materials, if the mistake goes unnoticed very long...often after the renegade loaded round makes it to the final stage. But...they're fast!

 

As for manuals, I usually try to pick up some freebies where I buy the powder. I have reloading manuals also, but like to see Alliant publishing loads for their powder. You won't always be able to get the free loading manuals...but the time to ask is when you're buying! They may have a spare held back, just for buying customers.

 

Also, as Patton and Jonnin have mentioned, the latest for the brand of powder you're loading is usually available online.

 

Good luck! It's fun... but, be sure and follow the loading instructions and safety instructions to the "T". Never load a recipe from a buddy, or anyone else, unless it's a published load by the powder manufacturer...no matter how long they tell you that they've been shooting it.

 

One more cardinal rule...at least for me anyway. I never shoot anyone else's reloads, and I will not allow anyone else to shoot one of my reloads. Mistakes are easily made, during some distraction, like a phone call. If you're throwing powder, and get interrupted...it is a good idea to dump the powder load, re-measure, and re-throw the load. Old saying...it's better to be safe than sorry!

 

Have fun...but please be careful!

[MrBrian]

I shall be very safe/careful/ and tedious in my making ammo....   I'm a compounding pharmacy technician, so I know the importance, and dangers of even the tiniest mistakes.    One more question while it's on my mind.    Primer pockets.....    How do you clean them?   Because you're suppose to tumble/clean the brass before reloading, but you don't actually take out the old primer until it's already on the progressive press to reload....  so is it better to run each piece of brass through a depriming rig before cleaning them in an ultrasonic cleaner or tumbling them?   Or is this a step that is only needed for precision rifle rounds?

[Patton]

Most guys with progressive presses normally do not clean primer pockets; it is not normally that essential anyway.

[chances R]

I have used a hornady LNL progressive press for several years. Dillon 650 equivalent . Both quality, buy once. Can be ran single stage initially . No need to deprime before cleaning . Cheaper in the long run to wet clean with stainless media. Pay attention to detail. If you are near Knoxville will be glad to give some help.

[Clod Stomper]

With most presses, dies are a standard size and interchangeable.  The Dillon Square Deal B requires its own proprietary dies if my memory is correct.  

 

The standard is 7/8x14 threads.  That's what most presses are made to accept.  

[musicman]

nothing wrong with buying a single stage press to stay in tune with each cycle before mass production begins. when reloading, things more important than speed are: facial conservation, phalange retention, firearm preservation. any of those can be in jeopardy with box ammunition as well, which is one reason some folks reload.
won't be up for long. please support those you found useful. most are unobtainable these days.
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/0mgupkamfcjrjq9,istmap2f3gdzz8f,p03ltdeyp5htmqm,istmap2f3gdzz8f,yfekgazbinpddt5,6hebccl57hufqib,rz2g5raah15ccc7,2w6h4up6b7cytdl,c6ys8acq6acbgbs/shared
a few more added

Thanks for the files! I had a few of those, but took advantage of the Midway caliber specific guides. Preeschiatcha!

[musicman]

Oh, and I've been loading on a Lee turret since I began almost a decade ago. It's no progressive, but I'm happy. I make excellent ammo at about 80-90rds/hr when it's all said and done. Any faster and I'd go broke burning through components!

[musicman]

Oh, and I've been loading on a Lee turret since I began almost a decade ago. It's no progressive, but I'm happy. I make excellent ammo at about 80-90rds/hr when it's all said and done. Any faster and I'd go broke burning through components!

[Ray Z]

If you're new to reloading, if I were you, I'd start with a rock chucker master reloading kit. You can be in a hurry later. You need to learn the basics first. It's not like you'd toss your rock chucker press in the corner and let it rust after a few months. There's a lot that you can and will do in the future that you will need the extra leverage you will get from that press. Book shelf has reloading books from Lyman, Spear, and Sierra. You can also get guides from the different powder companies with an email.

 

Just off the top of my head I still use my rock chucker to trim cases, form 8x57 cases from 30/06 brass, 243 win from 308, and resize military brass that was shot in a machine gun. 

[Luke E.]

I've got a Dillon 650 and love it. If you go with the 650 you need to go ahead and figure in the cost of the case feeder because you're better off with a 550 than you are with a 650 without the case feeder. It's also a fare bit more expensive to covert to new calibers than it is with a 550. If you have anyone that you know with a progressive that would be willing to let you hang out while they load that would be a big bonus for you. Good luck.

[Jonnin]

I shall be very safe/careful/ and tedious in my making ammo....   I'm a compounding pharmacy technician, so I know the importance, and dangers of even the tiniest mistakes.    One more question while it's on my mind.    Primer pockets.....    How do you clean them?   Because you're suppose to tumble/clean the brass before reloading, but you don't actually take out the old primer until it's already on the progressive press to reload....  so is it better to run each piece of brass through a depriming rig before cleaning them in an ultrasonic cleaner or tumbling them?   Or is this a step that is only needed for precision rifle rounds?

they make a primer pocket cleaner.  Its like $5 for a pair (large and small) which are effectively wire brushes of the exact size.  I rarely use them.  If you feel you want to do this step, this is the way to go.

[MrBrian]

I've got a Dillon 650 and love it. If you go with the 650 you need to go ahead and figure in the cost of the case feeder because you're better off with a 550 than you are with a 650 without the case feeder. It's also a fare bit more expensive to covert to new calibers than it is with a 550. If you have anyone that you know with a progressive that would be willing to let you hang out while they load that would be a big bonus for you. Good luck.

Here's a list that I made up from Dillon's website a few years back...... of course prices have probably gone up, and it's not including tax or shipping, but it'll give you an idea of what I'm looking at.   So far, it's about the cost of a good AR with optic, and I've already started getting some of the stuff, so now it's just a matter of saving up for another month or two!
 

 

 

  21079   Casefeed Assembly - Small Pistol (650/1050)  $ 218.95

 218.95

 

  16306   Low Powder Sensor  $ 41.95

 41.95

 

  10483   Dillon D-Terminator Digital Scale  $ 139.95

 139.95

 

  16944   Dillon XL 650 in 38 Super/9mm  $ 566.95

 566.95

 

  13606   Primer Flip Tray  $ 19.95

 19.95

 

  20049   4-Pack Small Primer Pickup Tubes  $ 23.95

 23.95

 

  10330   Reloading Manual - Lyman #49  $ 24.95

 24.95

 

  20493   CV-2001 Vibratory Case Cleaner  $ 187.95

 187.95

 

  14406   Dillon 9mm Carbide 3-Die Set  $ 63.95

 63.95

 

  15161   Dillon 9mm Stainless Case Gage  $ 15.25

 15.25

 

  BE650   650 - As it should BE - Upgrade  $ 127.95

 127.95

 

  11555   650 Toolholder with Wrench Set  $ 29.95

 29.95

 

  21044   Powder Check System - 650/1050 only  $ 68.95

 68.95

 

  17999   Bullet Puller (New Style, Berrys)  $ 29.95

 29.95

 

  12580   Reloading Manual - Speer #14  $ 29.95

 29.95

 

  19484   650 Press Instructional DVD  $ 19.95

 19.95

 

  20675   CM-2000 Media Separator  $ 72.95

 72.95

 

  97017   650 Maintenance & Spare Parts Kit  $ 39.95

 39.95

 

  10443   650 Machine Cover  $ 39.95

 39.95

Purchase Subtotal:   $ 1,763.35

[Omega]

Here's a list that I made up from Dillon's website a few years back...... of course prices have probably gone up, and it's not including tax or shipping, but it'll give you an idea of what I'm looking at.   So far, it's about the cost of a good AR with optic, and I've already started getting some of the stuff, so now it's just a matter of saving up for another month or two!

Purchase Subtotal:  $ 1,763.35

Or; https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0000690304/Classic_Turret_Press_Kit_

Unless you shoot a large amount, say 1k or more, per range session the above will do that for you. All it needs are the dies. And to change calibers say to .40 just get this:
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0000690965/40_S_and_W_Deluxe_Pistol_Carbide_4_Die_Set_With_Shellholder

And this to switch calibers in seconds:
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0000690269/4_Hole_Turret_

I use the older 3-hole press, since mid 80s, and haven't needed anything faster or more expensive. I dont even use the indexing feature to make it faster. I resize a mess of cases all at once, then I prime, load powder and seat a projectile one at a time. At current prices, I load about 100 300blk rounds in roughly an hour and that is just about all I can afford. For pistol, about half the time maybe less or two three times the count since I use the powder measure that's included in the kit.

[Luke E.]

Here's a list that I made up from Dillon's website a few years back...... of course prices have probably gone up, and it's not including tax or shipping, but it'll give you an idea of what I'm looking at. So far, it's about the cost of a good AR with optic, and I've already started getting some of the stuff, so now it's just a matter of saving up for another month or two!



21079 Casefeed Assembly - Small Pistol (650/1050) $ 218.95
218.95

16306 Low Powder Sensor $ 41.95
41.95

10483 Dillon D-Terminator Digital Scale $ 139.95
139.95

16944 Dillon XL 650 in 38 Super/9mm $ 566.95
566.95

13606 Primer Flip Tray $ 19.95
19.95

20049 4-Pack Small Primer Pickup Tubes $ 23.95
23.95

10330 Reloading Manual - Lyman #49 $ 24.95
24.95

20493 CV-2001 Vibratory Case Cleaner $ 187.95
187.95

14406 Dillon 9mm Carbide 3-Die Set $ 63.95
63.95

15161 Dillon 9mm Stainless Case Gage $ 15.25
15.25

BE650 650 - As it should BE - Upgrade $ 127.95
127.95

11555 650 Toolholder with Wrench Set $ 29.95
29.95

21044 Powder Check System - 650/1050 only $ 68.95
68.95

17999 Bullet Puller (New Style, Berrys) $ 29.95
29.95

12580 Reloading Manual - Speer #14 $ 29.95
29.95

19484 650 Press Instructional DVD $ 19.95
19.95

20675 CM-2000 Media Separator $ 72.95
72.95

97017 650 Maintenance & Spare Parts Kit $ 39.95
39.95

10443 650 Machine Cover $ 39.95
39.95
Purchase Subtotal: $ 1,763.35

Looks like a good list. The "tool holder with wrench set" can only be used if you also have the "strong mount". I would love to have the wrench set on mine but I don't want the extra height or the extra flex that comes with a strong mount. Whenever we build and I get a room like I want then I will likely pick one up.

[TNMTBik3r]

I have a turret press and plan on sticking with it instead of upgrading to a progressive (RCBS turret). For rifle I use it strictly as a single stage and it is capable of producing consistent sub MOA ammo no problem even with the little bit of flex in a turret.

I do use the turret feature for my pistol reloads. 200ish rounds an hour once I get going.

Turret is a good compromise for speed and accurate ammo and a much cheaper price point than a full progressive.

I own several reloading manuals - the Lee is a pretty good all around manual, also have Hornady, Hodgdon yearly magazine/manuals, Nosler, Speer and Sierra. Most of what I shoot for my AR are Sierra bullets so that manual gets the most use in conjunction with the Hodgdon manual for cross reference. And use mfg data from their websites - usually print off the page I want and keep it in my notebook.

[Luke E.]

A buddy and I have a .223 load using pull down powder and bullets from David that we load on a Dillon 550 or 650 depending on who's house we're at. These are just "blaster" loads and they are always sub moa and he can get down to half moa with his Rem 700 bolt gun. My point is, I get the same or less flex out of my Dillon 650 than I do out of my turret press and it doesn't have a lot of flex to it.
One key thing when using a case actuated powder measure is pulling the handle somewhat consistently. If you ease it down one time and then slam it down fast the next the powder charge can vary slightly but not usually enough to be noticeable when shooting unless you're really getting serious. We've measured our loaded rounds using the Hornady caliper contraptions which measure from the base to the ogive and they are very very consistent. If you're shooting groups at 300 yards and out then maybe a rigid single stage is the way to go but for most purposes a progressive (I can't speak for the Hornady) is more than consistent enough.
When I bought my turret press I based that decision on the number of rounds I shot at the time and the amount of time I had to devote to loading but things changed. The number of rounds I was shooting doubled almost instantly once I started loading and life got way busier so I all of the sudden had to build more rounds in less time. I got to the point that the only way I wouldn't run out of ammo was to load at a buddy's house on his Dillion so I made the decision to buy the Dillon and I've not regretted it once. Honestly I wish I'd started out with it. I've got quite a bit of stuff laying around that I never use because I went that direction first. There's absolutely nothing wrong with a turret press if you have enough time to build the number of rounds needed but I found that I didn't. This became really noticeable once I started in on rifle rounds because then you also have to make time to trim and swage (if the primer pockets are crimped) and that can take as long as loading (lots more time than loading with a progressive and about the same as loading on a turret).
If you're going to load .223 I highly suggest buying the Dillon Super Swage 600 and the WTF (Worlds Finest Trimmer) as these two things will slash you brass prep time. Should be around $160 for both of them.

[Guest BCR#1]

Looks like a good list. The "tool holder with wrench set" can only be used if you also have the "strong mount". I would love to have the wrench set on mine but I don't want the extra height or the extra flex that comes with a strong mount. Whenever we build and I get a room like I want then I will likely pick one up.

Please explain what you mean by "flex" in a strong mount.

 

Bill

[BigK]

I started on a Lee turret and loved it. It can be run as a single stage while learning, if you feel that's necessary. You just disable the auto-indexing feature. I did this a few times when I was calibrating the powder measure and setting the case flare, crimp, and bullet depth. I never reloaded in single stage, though. I have a couple of Dillon XL 650s now and couldn't be happier. I "can" crank out 200-300 on my way out the door to the range, if I want. For me, the beauty of the progressive presses is that my time available for reloading is limited. So, the more ammo I can safely make when i do reload, the better.

[BigK]

[quote name="BCR#1" post="1184954" timestamp="1409480823"]Please explain what you mean by "flex" in a strong mount. Bill[/quote] I'm curious too. I've setup 2 650s and a 550 and with the bench firmly lag-bolted to wall studs and on a solid footing, I haven't even noticed the slightest amount of "flex". I'm just loading pistol ammo, though. I'm guessing the increased torque of rifle bullets may be why?