My New Pedersoli Flintlock got here today.

[Lowpower]

My .50 Cal Flintlock Kentucky got here and is in great shape! I can't wait to get out an put some rounds downrange tomorrow.

 

 

I'll try and get a range report out tomorrow evening.

 

[leroy]

I love these things... I can't wait to hear the "range report"... I want a percussion Gibbs; but im too cheap to buy one...

 

leroy

[94user]

Where is Bajabuc when you need him. He was our resident flintlock shooter.

[Lowpower]

Thanks, a buddy I shoot with just got a Gibbs from his brother who had turned it into a safe queen for the past 10 years. 

at least he got it now and has been airing it out. He also shoots his Pedersoli Sharps with me when we go shooting.

While it sure is a pretty rifle i still love my original 1859 Sharps in .45-100.

 

I'll see if I can get some pics of targets and us shooting tomorrow.

[DaveS]

Nice find. You can't go wrong with a flinter. Been building and shooting them for years, and I wouldn't trade my flintlocks for nothing! Awesome rifle!

 

Dave

[Lowpower]

Thanks, Dave. 

 

Well, I'm home and had some start up issues;

 

I ran a rod down it it ensure it was nice and clean with nothing in the barrel...rust, etc. I found out the rifle had never been fired. 

The bore was pristine. The frizzen pan looked like it never had powder on (in?) it.

 

Next I loaded the rifle like I would my cap lock. I even ran a target load of 35 gr of trip7 FFG. I wet the patch and stuffed a ball on top and started it

with my cap n ball starter then rammed the ball home. Two firm taps and I was ready to prime it.

 

I take it over to the firing line and my buddy hands me this small horn which he says has FFFFG in it. So, I start to dump a lil in the cup and the stuff

that comes out has to be FFG.  LOL!  Fortunately, I had my lil frizzen primer that I carry just in case I get stupid and stuff a ball down the barrel of my 

cap lock with out sticking in powder. I pressed a charge an dropped it into the cup and cocked it.

 

The first shot out of the rifle went.bang then an almost immediate boom! Well, it shot. After I got over the flinching from the flash I figured I'd give it another go. 

The second shot pocked the 9 ring at 9 o'clock.  It went downhill from there. Oh, not the gun. All my buddy's that were there wanted to shoot.

 

They got in line and away we went. Fun was had by all but rounds were all over the chart and I ran out of FFFFG. 

 

Lessons learned:  

 

Range testing should be done alone.   :)

Make sure I have everything I need and bring it myself. 

When my flint moves back from firing I will not get the spark needed to ignite the main charge. 

I'm gonna need more flints.

 

The good news:

 

It will shoot.

I performed the same rituals as I've always done with my cap locks for target shooting.

I ran a patch down it between shots. 

I ran my cap pick through the breech channel to ensure it was clear after every swab.

I gave it a full cleaning once finished so I don't have to put it away wet. 

I stopped by Bass Pro and they have FFFFG so I bought a pound but I still have to figure out 

what size and type and where to get flints.

My buddy said he had extra horns and gave me a powder and primer horn. Hoooya!

 

I will go out and perform a real check in the next couple of days and post it. 

 

I got movies on my iPhone but have no idea how to post them here.

Edited August 16, 2014 by Lowpower

[Lowpower]

Let's see if this works...

 

http://vid587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/ren1795/IMG_1006_zpsbef837f6.mp4

 

It worked. Here's one of my bud and his delayed action BOOM!

 

http://vid587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/ren1795/IMG_1007_zps46f5d38f.mp4

Edited August 16, 2014 by Lowpower

[DaveS]

It sounds like you had a "blast".Sight in with YOUR rifle period. I use 3F in the barrel and 4F in the pan. However, I have and will use 3F for both, especially for hunting. The old saying "too many cooks spoil the broth", holds true with muzzleloaders as well. You got the fun out of the way now it's time to get down to business. My .50 Flintlock will ring a deer's bell at 100 yards with a .490 ball with a .10 patch and 80 grains of 3f. I hope you too can work up a good load for your rifle. Four elements have to come together here; shooter, powder charge, patch and ball. When those things come together, they are as accurate and deadly as a centerfire. I won't stop hunting with my Flintlocks for no amount of money. If you want to talk to me, let me know and I'll PM you my number. Happy shooting...

 

Dave

[Lowpower]

Dave,

 

I sot .490 balls in the FL using pillow ticking that was 3x washed for softening. I don't remember what weight/thickness the ticking is.

I've been using the blue stripped ticking in my Hawkins for years now with a .495 ball. I gotta run out for a bit but will pm you.

 

Thanks

Lp 

[DaveS]

It sounds like you are off to a good start. On a .50 cal I started with 50 grains of 3F Pure Black Powder (don't know nothing about Triple 7). Don't worry about where she hits until you find your "sweat load". A sweat load is when the rifle (long rifles) changes from a "boom" to a "crack" when fired. That's what you want to achieve. My sweat load is 80 grains. It will put a .490 patched ball through a deer faster than you can think about it. There is a product available by TC (I think) called bore butter. That is an amazing patch lube! I use a homemade mixture of 1/3 Bees Wax and 2/3rds Tallow, because I'm a purist! Nice video's by the way! Once you get your barrel seasoned, swabbing between shots becomes a thing of the past! Good luck, and have fun! If I can be of help, let me know!

 

Dave

[Lowpower]

Dave,

 

Since I will be silhouette shooting with this rifle for now I'm using just water on my patches. The powder only stays in the rifle for a minute or two so

the power doesn't really get wet.  I take a small cup and stick the patch in it until its soaked. Then I squeeze all the excess water out of the patch with my

fingers. I lay it up on the muzzle then stick a ball on top of it and give it a light wack with my rubber mallet. I then use the my old .45 pistol rod to start it

down a foot and finish with the original ramrod with a wooded ball on top. Im only 30 seconds away from shooting at that point and I've never had a misfire

yet. (knock on wood).  

 

I have always swabbed between shots on the range and don't think I'm going to stop anytime soon.

 

My cap lock barrel is only 29 inches but the flintlock is around 35 inches so my loading tube still has 5-6 inches to drop powder into the barrel. I really strive to get the

powder down by the breech where it belongs without having any hang up in the bore while its being put in. I always use my rubber mallet to tap around the breech

to ensure the powder is all the way into the breech.  You mentioned you are using 3fg. Is that meant to ensure the powder does make it down into the breech since the granuals are

smaller. I think I have a pound of it laying around so I can try it, that's what you're doing.

 

I've been using the trip 7 substitute for a long time. Imho it burns nice and clean compared to goex. I have a friend who has been using goex forever but Bass Pro ran out for a month and 

he used up all his powder. He got some trip 7 and worked up his load and hasn't looked back even though prior to that he said he'd never use the trip 7. Go figure....

The 4fg I picked up the other day was goex but I figure a flash in the pan won't make too much of a mess. 

 

I can post pics of my gear. Other than my powder drop tube everything fits in my range box. If I go hunting I'll transfer what I need to an old fashioned BP bag. I'll have to look for one

to use. I also asked a buddy to yank a couple of tail feathers when he goes duck hunting. I don't eat ducks so won't shoot them. Until then I'll use my cap lock cleaning wire to 

keep the breech clear.

 

More importantly I need to determine the size of the flints my rifle uses. The one that's one there appears too small (lengthwise). I'll take a pic of what's on there and you can 

maybe help there... It's the one that came on the rifle and the only one I have so I think it will become the determining factor of just how much shooting I can do with this

rifle. I can pour my own balls and powder is plentiful around here. 

 

I like your beeswax mix. I make up something like it for my .45-100, 500 gr bullets for my Sharps.

 

To recap:

Duck feathers work ok?

Flint size and where can I get them?

2fg or 3g for main charge?

 

Thanks

Lp

Edited August 18, 2014 by Lowpower

[DaveS]

Dave,

 

Since I will be silhouette shooting with this rifle for now I'm using just water on my patches. The powder only stays in the rifle for a minute or two so

the power doesn't really get wet.  I take a small cup and stick the patch in it until its soaked. Then I squeeze all the excess water out of the patch with my

fingers. I lay it up on the muzzle then stick a ball on top of it and give it a light wack with my rubber mallet. I then use the my old .45 pistol rod to start it

down a foot and finish with the original ramrod with a wooded ball on top. Im only 30 seconds away from shooting at that point and I've never had a misfire

yet. (knock on wood).  

 

I have always swabbed between shots on the range and don't think I'm going to stop anytime soon.

 

My cap lock barrel is only 29 inches but the flintlock is around 35 inches so my loading tube still has 5-6 inches to drop powder into the barrel. I really strive to get the

powder down by the breech where it belongs without having any hang up in the bore while its being put in. I always use my rubber mallet to tap around the breech

to ensure the powder is all the way into the breech.  You mentioned you are using 3fg. Is that meant to ensure the powder does make it down into the breech since the granuals are

smaller. I think I have a pound of it laying around so I can try it, that's what you're doing.

 

I've been using the trip 7 substitute for a long time. Imho it burns nice and clean compared to goex. I have a friend who has been using goex forever but Bass Pro ran out for a month and 

he used up all his powder. He got some trip 7 and worked up his load and hasn't looked back even though prior to that he said he'd never use the trip 7. Go figure....

The 4fg I picked up the other day was goex but I figure a flash in the pan won't make too much of a mess. 

 

I can post pics of my gear. Other than my powder drop tube everything fits in my range box. If I go hunting I'll transfer what I need to an old fashioned BP bag. I'll have to look for one

to use. I also asked a buddy to yank a couple of tail feathers when he goes duck hunting. I don't eat ducks so won't shoot them. Until then I'll use my cap lock cleaning wire to 

keep the breech clear.

 

More importantly I need to determine the size of the flints my rifle uses. The one that's one there appears too small (lengthwise). I'll take a pic of what's on there and you can 

maybe help there... It's the one that came on the rifle and the only one I have so I think it will become the determining factor of just how much shooting I can do with this

rifle. I can pour my own balls and powder is plentiful around here. 

 

I like your beeswax mix. I make up something like it for my .45-100, 500 gr bullets for my Sharps.

 

To recap:

Duck feathers work ok?

Flint size and where can I get them?

2fg or 3g for main charge?

 

Thanks

Lp

Duck Feather's are fine. However they look much better on the duck!

A 3/4 in flint is fine for your rifle (also known as a Large) Bass Pro had some fine cut flints. Being a "purist" I only use hand knapped flints from Dixie Gunworks. Bass Pro may have some.

2 F is considered "rifle powder", but, I use 3F for the main charge because it ignites mili-seconds ahead of 2F. 4 F is faster in the pan but when I deer hunt, I only carry one horn (3F) and use it for both purposes. When using 3F in the pan you may notice a little longer burn time. So to be direct...I prefer 3F.

 

Happy Flint Shooting!

 

Dave

[Lowpower]

Duck Feather's are fine. However they look much better on the duck!

A 3/4 in flint is fine for your rifle (also known as a Large) Bass Pro had some fine cut flints. Being a "purist" I only use hand knapped flints from Dixie Gunworks. Bass Pro may have some.

2 F is considered "rifle powder", but, I use 3F for the main charge because it ignites mili-seconds ahead of 2F. 4 F is faster in the pan but when I deer hunt, I only carry one horn (3F) and use it for both purposes. When using 3F in the pan you may notice a little longer burn time. So to be direct...I prefer 3F.

 

Happy Flint Shooting!

 

Dave

I agree on the Duck... I only shoot what i plan to eat. Fortunately, my bud is a duck hunter and he will donate some tail feathers to me.

Im going to try out 3fg. I did notice a delay shooting which i'd like to speed up.

I'm gonna go take picks now I can show you where the flint is currently sitting on the rifle ager around 5 shots.

Lp

[Lowpower]

OK, I got some pics...

The 1st is my kit, the 2nd includes the range box it all fits in. The 3rd shows the flint, the 4th shows a side view, close up of the flint. The last is my ram rod ball I forgot to 

include in the kit pic. The ball is around $1.50 and I just drilled a hole in the bottom.

[url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl101_zpsb5fb1523.jpeg.html][/URL][url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl102_zps22b574f7.jpeg.html][/URL][url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl104_zps881a7cad.jpeg.html][/URL][url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl105_zps59e505d1.jpg.html][/URL][url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl106_zps5d3cee6a.jpg.html][/URL]

You can see my drop tube in the kit pics.

I also found out on round #3 the flint can move. When it was touching the frizzen in the safe position i always had a spark. it then moved back 

until it was approx an 1/8 inch away from the frizzen in the same safe position. I broke out the screw driver and reset it. I was almost afraid to

tighten it down too much else I'd break the flint.

 

Lp

Edited August 18, 2014 by Lowpower

[DaveS]

It all looks good. Your flint is making contact at about the right spot. If your flint is moving, she needs tightened up a tad. Don't worry about fracturing the flint. Only tighten the flint until she don't move. Looking at the picture you posted, your flint appears to be a tad too small for my liking. It doesn't look like much of the "jaws" is holding a whole lot of flint. The "flat" spot on the flint should be well seated withing the jaws of the hammer. Me personally, I would go with a larger flint.

 

My flint is actually set in the jaws "upside down" as I get better contact with the smaller flints with the frizzen. Sorry about the blurry picture, just wanted to show you how the jaws grips the "flat" of the flint. You're looking good and off on the right foot. I would try a larger flint. I hope this helps you out.

 

Dave

 

Edited August 18, 2014 by DaveS

[Lowpower]

I agree with you, Dave. After a couple of shots we had a no spark and I noticed the flint had moved back. Since I had a fully charged rifle I grabbed a

screw driver and pushed the flint up enough to move it back to where it just touches the frizzen in the safe position. I locked it down right there and 

we were able to clear the rifle.

 

I had heard you can flip the flints upside down then flip them around and start again but this was my first firings so I figured it was set up ok. 

It was ok but not really correct nor was it tight enough.

 

Do you still think the 3/4 inch flint is the correct one? You rifle appears to have the same flint vice as mine, albeit a different brand.

 

I'm gonna take a ride over to Bass Pro to see what they may have in flints. 

 

Thanks for the help.

Lp

[DaveS]

Personally, I'd go with a larger flint. Each person has their own likes and dislikes, however, the larger flint (as in mine) is actually touching the "jaw screw" within the jaws and can't move when fired. Also a larger flint strikes higher up on the frizzen than a shorter flint does, unless it is set well forward. The more contact a flint makes with the frizzen the more sparks it makes. When I deer hunt, I need the best performance I can get. Always keep your flints sharp and your frizzen clean and dry. For safety, a "frizzen stall" is a handy little item to have. All that is, is a little leather cover that goes over the frizzen to keep the flint from sparking should the hammer be bumped or hit. I'll post a picture of one later soe you can see what it looks like. They are very simple to make. Our Longhunter/Mountain Group requires frizzen stalls on all Flintlocks. If you can't find or make one, let me know.

 

Keep Your powder dry!

 

Dave

[Lowpower]

Dave,

 

I picked up a couple of 5/8 X 1/2 English flints from the Sportsmans Warehouse in MS and they are a good fit so I bought 5 ea.  5/8 X 1/2 English

flints from Track of the Wolf. They get here tomorrow morning in the mail. I'd like to talk more about powders. I am an old user of Goex from around the

early '70's which I was shooting a lot of BP pistols. I got away from it for a while and used it again for a while when I got my first Hawkins. I shoot with

buddy;s who had transitioned to Trip 7 due it's much easier to clean up. But Trip 7 really isn't BP but a substitute using modern day chemicals to

fabricate it. I don't even thinks it's carbon based.

 

As I had mentioned above I've been using Trip 7 forever in my Hawkins Cap-n-ball. When I got my Flintlock over a week ago now I still loaded FFG of Trip 7 in that. We discussed maybe going to FFFG, like you use, to improve main charge ignition speed. 

Question, are you using Goex or Swiss BP in your FL? I understand Trip7 runs hotter that traditional black powder and even a bit hotter as you shrink the granule sizes. 
I picked up a lb of Trip 7 FFFG for the main charge and a lb of Goex FFFFG to use for the pan. I do load by volume which makes me wonder what the difference in the powders will be. As in 30 gr of Trip 7 may be the equivalent of 40-45 gr of Goex? And since I'm loading by volume is there much difference between FFG AND FFFG?

 

Our heat index has been 105-110 for the past 5 days so I haven't been out there soaking up the sun but plan on being back out on Saturday morning. Pics and range report will follow the session.

 

Edited to add: I also picked up a frizzen stall from Track of the Wolf (ToW) since they had them on sale for a few bucks.

 

Thanks,

Bob

Edited August 27, 2014 by Lowpower

[DaveS]

Bob; It sounds like you went in the right direction with your flints. I think you will like the larger flint. I have no experience with Triple 7, but I can tell you that when Pyrodex cost me my Buck of a lifetime in my Hawken Rifle, I said it then and I say it now....I will never use anything other than true and pure Black Powder. I have never tested Triple 7. I have never had a reason to.

 

FFFG is fine in a Flinter, as it is finer and ignites miliseconds ahead of FF. Some people may disagree. My experience proves otherwise. If you look at FF and FFF layed side by side, you can see a slight difference in granule size. And my powder of choice if GOEX. And Black powder is measured by volume no matter if it is 1F or 3F!

 

You are really off to a good start! I wished I could help you with Triple 7 but I can't.

 

I'm glad you got a frizzen stall. Number 1 safety Item for us Flinters!

 

Have a blessed day..

 

Dave

[bajabuc]

Personally, I'd go with a larger flint. Each person has their own likes and dislikes, however, the larger flint (as in mine) is actually touching the "jaw screw" within the jaws and can't move when fired. Also a larger flint strikes higher up on the frizzen than a shorter flint does, unless it is set well forward. The more contact a flint makes with the frizzen the more sparks it makes. When I deer hunt, I need the best performance I can get. Always keep your flints sharp and your frizzen clean and dry. For safety, a "frizzen stall" is a handy little item to have. All that is, is a little leather cover that goes over the frizzen to keep the flint from sparking should the hammer be bumped or hit. I'll post a picture of one later soe you can see what it looks like. They are very simple to make. Our Longhunter/Mountain Group requires frizzen stalls on all Flintlocks. If you can't find or make one, let me know.

 

Keep Your powder dry!

 

Dave

You got it…no matter how you  crank it…a small flint will move back…get one big enough to stay put.  Have I mentioned I hate Auto Correct?  Got a chipping hammer?  I found a nifty little brass one in my bag…I wonder how long it's been in there.

 

As for my highly modified CVA Mountain Rifle…a made in USA by the way…I finally got my lock in place.  It was a percussion…now it's a flinter…well…it will be if I ever find the barrel

Edited August 27, 2014 by bajabuc

[bajabuc]

One of the miracles of the world was a frizzen soled with a highly radioactive bit of metal from a scrapped reactor.  A fellow  bucksnorter had one on his .69.  Reached down and picked up a reasonably flat rock outta the streambed and stuck it in the cock…racked her back and produced a shower of sparks like you wouldn't believe.  He was holding the rifle like he was shooting at a target.  Sparks were snapping and bouncing ON THE GROUND!!  I want me one of those.

Edited August 28, 2014 by bajabuc

[DaveS]

One of the miracles of the world was a frizzen soled with a highly radioactive bit of metal from a scrapped reactor.  A fellow  bucksnorter had one on his .69.  Reached down and picked up a reasonably flat rock outta the streambed and stuck it in the cock…racked her back and produced a shower of sparks like you wouldn't believe.  He was holding the rifle like he was shooting at a target.  Sparks were snapping and bouncing ON THE GROUND!!  I want me one of those.

If you find an extra....well, I know a fella who may be interested! One of the nice things about a flintlock, you can usually find a suitable "rock" to use to fire your rifle in an emergency while out hunting. I have yet to this day find a "cap" laying on the ground to be able to fire a percussion gun. And yes, I have left my caps at home before... :whistle:

 

Dave

Edited August 28, 2014 by DaveS

[Lowpower]

X2 on both, guys. Correct me if I'm wrong but i wasn't really aware I would need a flint knapping hammer but may need a 

a deer antler to sharpen/reshape the flints from time to time. I've taken my fair share of deer in the past 40 years or so but 

stopped way back when i sitting out in a the edge of a field at daylight with the temps hovering around 28 degrees and I said 

to myself, "Self, what the heck are you doing sitting out here freezing yer buns off at the crack of misery, waiting on Mr. Muley                                              c      vc 

to make his appearance when you could be home in a nice warm bed with yer wife?" That was enough of that. 

Then my job took me out to Southern Kalifornia for a few years and they had these lil, itty bitty deer. Shoot one and as yer cleaning

him all the ticks and fleas jump off him onto you. Now that I'm older I prefer to watch them wonder around my kids backyard. 

 

Ok, enough of the rambling. I have a small spike rack I got from my neighbor who hunted hearer locally for years and kept some in a box.

I made a breech hole pick out of one of the spikes and will use the larger one for knapping.                                

[URL=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/ant1_zps44e5d760.jpeg.html][/URL][URL=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/ant2_zpsc9b147ff.jpeg.html][/URL]

 

I still need to drill and put a leash on the knapping antler. 

 

Ok then, need pics! What is a knapping hammer supposed to look like?

 

And I have left caps at home before, too! That's why I always take more than one rifle. Since I will probably leave something behind if I bring enough stuff to shoot

I just might have brought the right combo of ammo and guns that I will actually get to shoot. One thing about my BP rifles is I stuff everything in a big orange ammo box and

i've shown on page one. I can see if I stuck the orange box in the truck then all I have to remember is ole betsy! 

 

Thanks

[Lowpower]

Next question!  Is flint locally available in the US? Like in some local gravel pits? Maybe AR, MS , TN KY? If I have to I can fly somewhere but I'd prefer to drive.

If there's a place where you can prospect and take what you find then I'll bring a box back and pass some around.

[leroy]

Lowpower... When i wuz a kid and a young man, i had a buddy whose grandfather owned a very large river bottom farm on the French Broad River here in east tennessee... When the bottom was plowed, there was flint everywhere...  We hunted it (...and arrowheads....) just after rains, as the rain would wash the dust off the rock and make them easier to see...

 

I've also seen it in chert pits... The flint will be mixed in with chunks of chert... If i wuz you; i'd just buy it from our buddies at Bufflo Arms, Track of the Wolf, or the guys at Parris Landing (...cant think of their name just now...)...

 

Here is a bit of information i picked out from a google search (...ya got me curious too...)... It's more than you ever wanted to know about flint...

http://peopleofthestone.com/finding-flint-identifying-source-can-be-both-helpful-and-easy-do

 

leroy....