DIY: How to do a mirror polished perfect convex edge for $20

[Spots]

Are you tired of ugly, dull edges? Or maybe you're sick of going to the gun shows with a sack full of knives to be sharpened at $5 or more dollars a piece. Maybe you just wanna be the envy of your friends with mirror polished, straight razor sharp, hair popping edges? I'm gonna show you how to take a mediocre edge to mirror polished and hair popping in just a few min. for about $20 worth of material. The first thing you need to do is run to walmart and pick up a few things.

You will need:
220 grit sand paper (optional)
400 grit sand paper
600 or 800 grit sand paper
Mothers aluminum polish
Mouse pad
Super glue
Cedar clothes hangers
Rubber bands

My total on this was $20.73 at Walmart. You can do it cheaper if you have some or all of this stuff in the shop. So gather your materials



The first step is to super glue the mouse pad to the cedar coat hanger board, material side down, rubber side up. Any good flat board of appropriate size will work.



Then trim to size.



Now add your 220/400 grit sand paper and secure with rubber bands. It is easier if you trim it to fit, but you don't have too. Use 220 if you are reprofiling a very bad edge, or 400 if the edge is already in decent shape.



These are the edges we are starting with. The bowie is already belt sanded to 320 grit. The case is my work knife and hasn't been sharpened in 2 months







Now, with a draw stroke motion, drag the knife edge across the sand paper. You will need to find what angle and pressure works for you. I use a low angle and moderate pressure for mine. I draw mine 45 strokes per side. This gives me a count so my edge stays even. You can color the edge with a sharpie to make sure you hit the whole edge when you first start to help you find your perfect angle and pressure. Added by Broomhead
BTW, if you use wet/dry sand paper, add some type of oil to it, I use 3-in-1. It'll create a slurry which will, A. Keep the paper from clogging up so fast by floating the metal shavings, B. Increase the effectiveness of your work by reusing the released grit, C. Make your strokes smoother for fewer errant scratch marks before continuing on to the next higher grit, and D. Keep your blade oiled. When the oil starts to get too thick, wipe the blade and add a little more oil. If the paper seems to stop cutting, replace it and add more oil. I doubt you'll need to do either for a knife or two, but you might need to if you're doing a lot.<br /><br />Also, gently wipe your blade with a paper towel, shop rag, etc, before moving onto the next higher grit so you won't scratch your nicely sanded blade halfway through that higher grit and have to redo your hard work.




Next swap out for the 600 or 800 grit sand paper and do the same thing. A 600 will have a more aggressive bite while 800 will make a cleaner slice. Another 45 strokes and you should have a sharp workable edge. But its still not to the standards we are looking for.
My phone died so I dont have pictures of this edge.


Now if you are like me, you may not have an appropriate piece of leather. If you do, use that for the next step. If not, use the box your sand paper came in. Trim it to fit the mouse board and mount it with the rubber bands undied/un colored side up. Add a finger full of the mothers in streaks.










Now strop with light to moderate pressure. I use 30 strokes per side. This will make a mirror polished hair popping edge.











Now test out your edge and enjoy the results.






I hope you have all enjoyed and learned something from this little tidbit of info. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I would love to see some comments if this has helped you out, and I'll be happy to try out and add any suggestions you might have to the write up.

Edited July 28, 2014 by Spots

[Spots]

Also, if you prefer a v-edge to a convex, folow the same steps, but use a piece of glass instead of a mouse pad. The pane from a picture frame works well for this.

[homeagain]

Now THAT is some good information to have!

[Guest Broomhead]

:up:

 

:rock:

[Luke E.]

 Are these photos blocked for anyone else? Even when I click on the spaces that they should be showing up, I get re-directed to a page saying that the pictures have been found to be malware and part of a file sharing website. I'm just curious as to whether this is my computer, my connection (we're currently in a rented beach house so IDK) or if it's doing this for everyone?

 

 

EDIT: My father in law has just informed me that it is due to the the way that the internet is configured here. I'm going to start looking around to see if they have all my options "communized"

Edited July 27, 2014 by Luke E.

[Spots]

Are these photos blocked for anyone else? Even when I click on the spaces that they should be showing up, I get re-directed to a page saying that the pictures have been found to be malware and part of a file sharing website. I'm just curious as to whether this is my computer, my connection (we're currently in a rented beach house so IDK) or if it's doing this for everyone?


EDIT: My father in law has just informed me that it is due to the the way that the internet is configured here. I'm going to start looking around to see if they have all my options "communized"

If you would like I can email the pictures to you.

[Luke E.]

If you would like I can email the pictures to you.

If it's not to much trouble that would be awesome! Edited July 27, 2014 by Luke E.

[z0mbies fear me]

This should get a sticky for future reference!

[Spots]

 If it's not to much trouble that would be awesome! #####@gmail.com 

 

I got them sent over to you. You can go ahead and remove your email. Let me know if you have any questions about the order of them, I think they sent in order.

This should get a sticky for future reference!

 

I just hope it is a help to some people. I know I can sharpen on a good rock, but it takes awhile, and I've never gotten better result by hand than with this cheap little system.

[Luke E.]

I got them sent over to you. You can go ahead and remove your email. Let me know if you have any questions about the order of them, I think they sent in order.

They are popping up now. Thanks Spots!

I got them all, thanks Spot Edited July 27, 2014 by Luke E.

[Guest Broomhead]

BTW, if you use wet/dry sand paper, add some type of oil to it, I use 3-in-1. It'll create a slurry which will, A. Keep the paper from clogging up so fast by floating the metal shavings, B. Increase the effectiveness of your work by reusing the released grit, C. Make your strokes smoother for fewer errant scratch marks before continuing on to the next higher grit, and D. Keep your blade oiled. When the oil starts to get too thick, wipe the blade and add a little more oil. If the paper seems to stop cutting, replace it and add more oil. I doubt you'll need to do either for a knife or two, but you might need to if you're doing a lot.

 

Also, gently wipe your blade with a paper towel, shop rag, etc, before moving onto the next higher grit so you won't scratch your nicely sanded blade halfway through that higher grit and have to redo your hard work.

 

Spots, you're pushing the blade edge first on the sandpaper, and drawing it away from the edge on the stropping, correct?

 

Hope you don't mind me adding my two cents.

[Grand Torino]

Great thread....thanks for tips Spots. :up:

[Spots]

BTW, if you use wet/dry sand paper, add some type of oil to it, I use 3-in-1. It'll create a slurry which will, A. Keep the paper from clogging up so fast by floating the metal shavings, B. Increase the effectiveness of your work by reusing the released grit, C. Make your strokes smoother for fewer errant scratch marks before continuing on to the next higher grit, and D. Keep your blade oiled. When the oil starts to get too thick, wipe the blade and add a little more oil. If the paper seems to stop cutting, replace it and add more oil. I doubt you'll need to do either for a knife or two, but you might need to if you're doing a lot.

Also, gently wipe your blade with a paper towel, shop rag, etc, before moving onto the next higher grit so you won't scratch your nicely sanded blade halfway through that higher grit and have to redo your hard work.

Spots, you're pushing the blade edge first on the sandpaper, and drawing it away from the edge on the stropping, correct?

Hope you don't mind me adding my two cents.

Don't mind at all. If you don't mind Im gonna add the oil part in and cite you for it. I am drawing the knife across for both the sand paper and the stropping. It all comes down to establishing and then refining the bur. Some gys do it against, but the general consensus Ive found on blade forums and a few others is cor a convex to use a draw stroke. Now on a power grinder I always grind against the edge.

[JAB]

Thanks for the info, Spots.  I can do pretty well on most knives with just a couple of el cheapo stones, ceramic sharpener, sharpening steel and leather that I have but there always seem to be blades that just will not cooperate.  I mean blades of a type/brand that I know I should be able to get sharp but can't seem to.  I am going to try this system on those when I get the chance.

 

I have a question, too.  You mentioned starting the Bowie's edge on a belt sander.  When you use a belt sander, how do you keep a consistent angle?  I recently bought one of the cheapo, small belt sanders from Harbor Freight thinking toward trying my hand at making some knives using stock removal and will need some way of keeping consistent angles.

[Spots]

Thanks for the info, Spots. I can do pretty well on most knives with just a couple of el cheapo stones, ceramic sharpener, sharpening steel and leather that I have but there always seem to be blades that just will not cooperate. I mean blades of a type/brand that I know I should be able to get sharp but can't seem to. I am going to try this system on those when I get the chance.

I have a question, too. You mentioned starting the Bowie's edge on a belt sander. When you use a belt sander, how do you keep a consistent angle? I recently bought one of the cheapo, small belt sanders from Harbor Freight thinking toward trying my hand at making some knives using stock removal and will need some way of keeping consistent angles.

I forge my bevels in then just do it by feel and by eye. There are jig plans online for grinding, my grind lines are more organic and not as neat and perfectly straight as a stock removal knife will be. Part of that is I prefer the more fluid look and part of it is I set my bevels by forging them in with hammer and just refining with the grinder. I use the same 1 x 30 belt grinder, they do well with good belts.

[JAB]

Thanks, Spots!

[Guest Broomhead]

Don't mind at all. If you don't mind Im gonna add the oil part in and cite you for it. I am drawing the knife across for both the sand paper and the stropping. It all comes down to establishing and then refining the bur. Some gys do it against, but the general consensus Ive found on blade forums and a few others is cor a convex to use a draw stroke. Now on a power grinder I always grind against the edge.

 

Go for it. Glad to help. I do that when I'm hand sanding my blades, it makes it go quicker.

[BJB]

I will try this out today. Got a few that I carve with that Need touching up.
Glad to see your still around Spots, not heard from you in a while

[Spots]

I will try this out today. Got a few that I carve with that Need touching up.
Glad to see your still around Spots, not heard from you in a while

Let me know how it goes for you. And yeah Im around when I can be, Ive been extremely busy on several fronts. I have been working up a blade with your antler handles though B)

[Rick45Colt]

Great thread! I was so inspired that I went through every knife in the kitchen including my Grand Father's butcher knife. I already had stones including one that my Great Uncle used for straight razors so I only needed to buy the Mothers Aluminum Polish. Rick45Colt Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Geno]

OUTSTANDING !!!

Thanks Spots

[jtmaze]

Thanks Spots. Definitely need a sticky

[GlockSpock]

So I tried this tonight after a trip to Walmart. I am almost disappointed. I've always sort of hated trying to get things sharp. I tried this homemade system on a ZT 0350 and a Victorinox Soldier. Did exactly as shown and really I just don't feel they got much sharper. I didn't buy 200 grit but maybe I should have started there. Any advice? Edited August 25, 2014 by CZ9MM

[Spots]

So I tried this tonight after a trip to Walmart. I am almost disappointed. I've always sort of hated trying to get things sharp. I tried this homemade system on a ZT 0350 and a Victorinox Soldier. Did exactly as shown and really I just don't feel they got much sharper. I didn't buy 200 grit but maybe I should have started there. Any advice?

How sharp was the knife to begin with? You may just have to try varying your angles and pressure. It took me awhile to find the pressure (fairly light now) and angle I liked. Its a lot of feel thats hard to explain. Also if they weren't convex edges you'll need to start at a low grit to reprofile the edge

[GlockSpock]

[quote name="Spots" post="1183032" timestamp="1408943268"]How sharp was the knife to begin with? You may just have to try varying your angles and pressure. It took me awhile to find the pressure (fairly light now) and angle I liked. Its a lot of feel thats hard to explain. Also if they weren't convex edges you'll need to start at a low grit to reprofile the edge[/quote] One of them was unknown grind and quite dull. I guess I just need the coarse stuff to reprofile. Generally how many times per edge would you say to reprofile with 200 grit? Hundreds? Thousands?