Issue with washing machine

[TripleDigitRide]

This GE washing machine (Model # GTWN2800D0WW) is roughly 1-year-old.

Today, while in the Drain & Spin cycle, the washing machine began making an extremely loud noise, followed by a burnt electrical smell. My girlfriend quickly turned it off. 

After briefly inspecting the machine, I decided to turn it back on. Within 10 seconds or less, the same extremely loud noise and burnt electrical smell happened again. 

I know very little about appliances. To my novice ears, the sound appeared to be an extremely loud and rapid electrical short, or possibly a relay of some sort. I'm telling you, it was loud. And when I say rapid, it sounded like a machine gun. 

I immediately turned it off and unplugged it.

Does anyone have an ideas?

Thank you in advance.

 

Edited June 21, 2014 by TripleDigitRide

[Mike.357]

call a repair man.   

 

I dunno anything about that stuff other than pony up 75 bucks for service plus parts

 

good luck

[RED333]

https://www.google.com/search?q=GTWN2800D0WW&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb

 

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-GTWN2800D0WW/0432/0153200

 

A bit of help, See if you can find the issue, then go to Marcon on the corner of Elm Hill and Feslers to get the parts.

 

http://www.marcone.com/

[TripleDigitRide]

call a repair man.   

 

I dunno anything about that stuff other than pony up 75 bucks for service plus parts

 

good luck

We have a home warranty that came with the purchase of the home, which the appliances are covered. This washing machine is a replacement through the home warranty when our last washing machine quit working. We pay a $75 fee, and the home warranty covers everything else. 

I've called the home warranty company, and they've contacted the local repair person. I doubt they will get to me over the weekend, so I was hoping I could possibly fix it sooner, for less. Not likely, but thought I'd check.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=GTWN2800D0WW&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb

 

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-GTWN2800D0WW/0432/0153200

 

A bit of help, See if you can find the issue, then go to Marcon on the corner of Elm Hill and Feslers to get the parts.

 

http://www.marcone.com/

If I could figure out the issue and do it for less than the $75 fee, Marcone is who I was going to call for parts. I've used them a bunch.

Edited June 21, 2014 by TripleDigitRide

[Mike.357]

your are golden if it will be fixed for 75 bucks.   Good deal.

[TripleDigitRide]

I just noticed there was a bunch of water under and around the washing machine.

[Garufa]

I just noticed there was a bunch of water under and around the washing machine.

 

It's still unplugged, right?

[TripleDigitRide]

It's still unplugged, right?

Correct.

[Luke E.]

It's odd that you have a loud noise AND a burnt electrical smell. Usually an electrical problem won't be load and usually a mechanical problem won't have a burnt electrical smell, you sir have the unicorn of washing machine issues. Could the burnt smell possibly be a belt (not sure if washers even have a belt anymore)? If it's in fact burnt electrics, leaking water and a loud mechanical noise i'd say you're looking at buying multiple parts and would easily get over the $75 deductible of your home warranty.

[TripleDigitRide]

What I'm smelling could possibly be rubber, not electrical. I'm not sure how a bad belt could make that kind of noise, but I am far from an expert.

[Luke E.]

Well if there is in fact a belt in there and the "tub" gets off balance that is what it sounds and smells like. I do find the water on the floor odd though. I guess it could have shaken around and worked something loose or cracked a fitting though. I'd clean up the water, unload the clothes from the machine and try running it empty. Ours did the same thing (as far as the noise) about 2 weeks ago and I just unloaded everything and ran it empty and then loaded it up with a lighter load and all was well. It was REALLY loud and I thought for sure i'd be buying a new washer the next day but she's still running strong. The water in the floor is whats throwing me off. The drain line, is a lot of time, just a hose with a 180 degree bend in the end of it that is just hooked over into a drain hole typically in the same area that the hot and cold water lines are attached to the spigots so i'd check and make sure that the shaking didn't bounce that out of the drain causing water to be dumped on the floor. 

[dralarms]

I would get it out of the house ASAP. I had a water leak. Just got the check from the insurance company, it cost over 16k to fix my floors, treat for mold, lay new hardwood, and vacuum my duct work.

I'm putting water detection devices every where I have water in this house.

[TripleDigitRide]

Parts List and Diagrams

I removed the front of the washing machine, and noticed a small to fair amount of water in the bottom pan. I'm guessing the water on the floor is from me tilting the washing machine as I was attempting to get to the hoses and plug. I'm not sure if the water in the pan is from the Hose Flood (part 853 in the tub and agitator diagram), or a leaking seal where the Shaft and Tube Assembly (part 320 in the suspension and drive components diagram). You'd think they would connect the Hose Flood to the main drain line, but it's designed to dump directly into the bottom pan.

Someone on Facebook suggested it could have been the belt. After careful inspection, the belt and pulley appear to be in good shape. The belt and pulley turn easily by hand, and there appears to be plenty of tension on the belt.

I plugged it back in and attempted to duplicate the noise and smell. Of course it didn't happen again. I tried to run a complete wash cycle, but it will not agitate or spin. It doesn't even try. No click, glitch, nothing. It seems as if the motor isn't being told to agitate and spin, or that part of the motor is fried. 
 

[TripleDigitRide]

I would get it out of the house ASAP. I had a water leak. Just got the check from the insurance company, it cost over 16k to fix my floors, treat for mold, lay new hardwood, and vacuum my duct work.

I'm putting water detection devices every where I have water in this house.

 

All water line to the washing machine are disconnected and turned off.

[Luke E.]

So the motor isn't even trying to agitate? Did you let it try to cycle to be sure that it is at the point that it would normally agitate? I know those are dumb questions but they come from my own dumb experiences :) . If it is a matter of something electrical I would definitely let the home warranty cover it because you may go buy an electrical part and install it only to fry it because the original cause was still there.

[vontar]

I just noticed there was a bunch of water under and around the washing machine.

 

I had one that got out of balance and busted the plastic tub that contains the water.  It was over for that one.

[TripleDigitRide]

Another thing I noticed, is the pump never shuts off after it's engaged to empty the water. Even after the water is drained, and the machine has advanced to the point when it should begin agitating or spinning, the pump continues to run.

Edited June 21, 2014 by TripleDigitRide

[gregintenn]

Doesn't it have a warranty?

[Raoul]

Like all new washing machines it's an electronic piece of crap. Hope you bought the extended warranty. I have a Maytag that's been fixed 6 times.

 

Sounds like it might be some sort of electronic coupling device gone bad. Everything on the new ones is electronic.

[TripleDigitRide]

Doesn't it have a warranty?

GE provides a warranty for one year. It's been just over that. The home warranty company will send someone out to fix it, but I was hoping to find a solution before going to the laundromat.

[Dane]

Chance are one of the springs that help buffer the movement of the tub has come off or broke. The smell is probably the belt when the tub is violently pitching. If you are trying to get it to spin or agitate with the front cover off you need to bypass the safety switch. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[UncleJak]

I know it sucks to wait, but $75 is a good deal. I've had two service calls on mine and both times it was over the $75 mark. I refuse to buy a new one though; new ones have more parts that can break. Sent barefoot from the hills of Tennessee

[Dane]

[quote name="UncleJak" post="1161285" timestamp="1403392072"]I know it sucks to wait, but $75 is a good deal. I've had two service calls on mine and both times it was over the $75 mark. I refuse to buy a new one though; new ones have more parts that can break.Sent barefoot from the hills of Tennessee[/quote] Get a front loader. Less things to break! I'm on my second one in 15 years with minimal problems and a household of 6 people. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[TripleDigitRide]

Chance are one of the springs that help buffer the movement of the tub has come off or broke. The smell is probably the belt when the tub is violently pitching. If you are trying to get it to spin or agitate with the front cover off you need to bypass the safety switch. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Mine is a top load, and the only safety switch that I know of is for the lid. I don't think the machine knows if I have removed the front. 

 

I thought the issue may be due to a bad lid switch. I have found several how-to videos showing how to bypass the switch, but none that are like mine. On mine, one of the lid switch wires (yellow with black stripe, before turning into a black wire with red stripe) goes behind the control panel, and the other wire (red or orange, can't tell) goes to the motor.

[TripleDigitRide]

Here's a link to the switch. There is a magnet under the lid that activates this switch.

http://www.partselect.com/Models/GTWN2800D0WW/Parts/PS1482372-GE-WH12X10334-Lid-Switch-with-Wire-Harness.htm?SourceCode=22&SearchTerm=&ModelNum=GTWN2800D0WW&sSearchTerm=Pumps-but-will-not-spin