Couple more questions about the Sharp Maker.

[maroonandwhite]

Sorry guys but I have to talk about something related to knives. I am starting to get anxious waiting on the Protechs  :rofl:. 

 

I am still trying to master my Sharp Maker and am wondering if you can offer any tips. I know the rods it comes with take a little longer to work than diamond rods but I can't seem to get any of my knives paper slicing sharp. I can get them close but they still rip the paper unless I slice it just right. I will say I can get it MORE than sharp for EDC and am really wanting to just get a couple of knives I don't EDC really sharp.

 

Any tips? I have mainly been following what the video says but I am sure those knives were already really sharp just so he can make it look easy.

[BigK]

Funny you mention that...I have a couple of knives with AUS8 steel that I sharpen with my Sharp Maker, then I strop the edge with jewelers' rouge and leather. They will slice through paper with little to no effort at almost any angle. My ZT 0350 got the same treatment when it needed sharpening, but it tears paper more than it slices. It has better steel (S30V) and feels equally sharp to the touch. I've been using my Sharp Maker for about 2+ years now and never had any problem sharpening anything until now. I don't know if it's the blade profile/thickness or the hardness of the blade keeps it from stropping enough or what. Hope you get a good answer, I'll be watching for replies too.

Edited May 30, 2014 by BigK

[Schadenfreude]

I recommend The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening - they try to push their brand of Sharpening tools but it will give you a better idea what you're doing free hand with plain stones, once you get a decent edge on something you should be able to get by with just touching up the edge, provided you don't abuse it

[maroonandwhite]

I am wondering if it has anything to do with actually re profiling the blade. I use the 40 degree setting as spyderco recommends and am wondering if I just have to stay on the course rods for a good while if the blade is a totally different angle.

[bronco302]

I am wondering if it has anything to do with actually re profiling the blade. I use the 40 degree setting as spyderco recommends and am wondering if I just have to stay on the course rods for a good while if the blade is a totally different angle.

 

If you haven't yet paint the bevel with black Sharpe and do a couple of strokes and see if you're  grinding the edge or the top of the bevel. As you say you may be re profiling the edge. 

Edited May 30, 2014 by bronco302

[maroonandwhite]

Yeah I actually did do that and for the most part I got all of the sharpe off with a few strokes. I was less consistent when sharpening the right side of the blade but a little practice fixed that. It may just come down to blade steel.

[Monkeyman2500]

I do a lot of sharpening and find it takes quite a while with a corse stone to get a good edge. After that it goes quicker. I use different stones but I'm sure it's the same with rods.

[maroonandwhite]

I may just buy the diamond rods to speed the initial process up.

[xjsnake]

What steels are you trying to sharpen?

[maroonandwhite]

What steels are you trying to sharpen?

Sandvik 13c26 on a Kershaw Groove and Sandvik 14C28N on a Kershaw Skyline are the two I have been trying.