.40 S&W Feeding issues?????

[HvBikeWlTravel]

Some of my .40 cal creations from Lee Dies don't chamber in my wheel gun. Answers some feeding issues I've had with the Auto-loaders in the past. The offending rounds lack about a 1/16" to an 1/8" of going in the chamber all the way.  Time for new/better dies or will a taper crimp die help?  I am NOT good at sorting out between brands of brass. That has brought up varying pressure issues with 9mm in the past.

[Patton]

Probably has less to do with the brass head stamp and more to do with bulged brass. The bulge could be from seating(like not enough belling) or from it being previously shot from an unsupported chamber. A FCD may fix it. How many do you have loaded?

[camp]

What Patton said, i had the same issue on 40's and a fcd resolved the issue

[LngRngShtr]

try drop checking resized rounds into the chamber no drop is a sizing issue and if they drop in then it is a crimp issue,.. I taper crimp all my pistol rounds and they drop just fine.

 

.45ACP

10mm

.40S&W

.38/.357

.401 Herters

 

in my experience and opinion roll crimping is obsolete  taper crimp holds better and is more consistent

[musicman]

Yep, Factory Crimp Die. Let us know if that clears it up! :)

[frankmako]

Yep, Factory Crimp Die. Let us know if that clears it up! :)

try this

[HvBikeWlTravel]

Probably has less to do with the brass head stamp and more to do with bulged brass. The bulge could be from seating(like not enough belling) or from it being previously shot from an unsupported chamber. A FCD may fix it. How many do you have loaded?

 

Last batch I loaded was 154. 26 will not completely chamber in my wheel gun.

 

I am looking at taper crimp dies as we speak. Thanks for excellent advice on FCDie.

Edited May 4, 2014 by HvBikeWlTravel

[Patton]

Let me give you some more advice, 99% of the time when I go to resize a piece of brass I can feel those that are bulged because I feel resistance. When I feel that resistance I set them off to the side until I am done resizeing the group. I then unscrew my decapper and try to resize the brass once again. When the shell holder touches the die I slide the shell holder out leaving the brass in the die. I then insert a small piece of wood, a 1x1x6 between the ram and the shell pushing it further into the die. I try not to push it flush, it's unnecessary and a little harder to get push back down later. I then return the handle off the press to the rest position. Now all you have to do is tap the case out by using a little dowel rod or long screw driver lightly hammer out from the top.
This essentially does the same thing as a bulge buster, completely resizing the case. Edited May 4, 2014 by Patton

[HvBikeWlTravel]

I'm not seeing(or feeling) evidence of bulged brass. Had that condition in spades when I had a 9mm FN-Hi-Power. I just removed that brass from any type reloading situation.

Edited May 4, 2014 by HvBikeWlTravel

[Patton]

I'm not seeing(or feeling) evidence of bulged brass. Had that condition in spades when I had a 9mm FN-Hi-Power. I just removed that brass from any type reloading situation.

Ok, it's just easy to assume bulged brass since it is a 40s&w. Like I mentioned earlier if you are not belling your cases enough you will buckle the case close to the rim when seating bullets. I have never had this happen on 40 cases but it is a big problem on 380 and 38 cases. I have done it a few times on 9mm cases as well.