Ruger MKIII - What sight (RDS)?

[ls3_kid]

On my Ruger I first went cheap with a BSA RDS, worked great for a little while, now it is crap.  Anybody have any input on what sight to use?  I have been looking at sightmark and have read some decent reviews on them.  Along with Bushnell RDS.  I could careless if it is low pro.  I don't really feel like buying another $500 sight especially on a $400-500 handgun that I just plink with. 

 

I've never heard of Doctor sights but reviews say they are good (hell now that I think about it the only bad reviews I've read are on BSA and others alike).  This sight is $250 any personal experience?

 

Overall I want a sight that is not garbage and does not have to be "competition".

 

Edit:  I guess this should be in gear/accessories.  Mods you can move or leave here.  My fault.

Edited April 23, 2014 by ls3_kid

[Dolomite_supafly]

Can't beat the Burris Fast Fire.

[graycrait]

I have a C-More on my MKIII 22/45 but only because I have it and have nothing else to use it on.

 

The top two I have used and found the cheaper one more than adequate, although for less than 20 bucks more you get versatility in the second one you don't with the first.

 

I've also owned the 3rd one and didn't understand how it was better than than the much less expensive second one.

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1397459296/millett-compact-red-dot-sight-1-tube-1x-3-moa-dot-with-weaver-style-rings?cm_vc=ProductFinding

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/546845/millett-red-dot-sight-30mm-tube-1x-variable-sized-dot-3-5-8-10-moa-with-weaver-style-rings-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/651463/ultradot-matchdot-red-dot-sight-30mm-tube-1x-2-4-6-8-moa-dot-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding

 

I've also used or owned on a MKIII a Doctor, Aimpoint Micro and I think it was called a JP reflex.  I didn't like them on a MKIII.   

[Jonnin]

I am using the ultradot matchdot, very very nice but pricy.  

 

I have one simple rule for any optics:  replacement warranty.   If the company will fix it when/if it breaks,  its worth buying.  If not, it isnt.   This has served me well --- before the expensive sight I had a simple tru-glo inexpensive model.  They replaced it 4 times --- it was apparently not meant for daily use :whistle:  (that was back when you could find ammo).  So even though it broke a few times, I have nothing bad to say about it!  

[ls3_kid]

I am using the ultradot matchdot, very very nice but pricy.  

 

I have one simple rule for any optics:  replacement warranty.   If the company will fix it when/if it breaks,  its worth buying.  If not, it isnt.   This has served me well --- before the expensive sight I had a simple tru-glo inexpensive model.  They replaced it 4 times --- it was apparently not meant for daily use :whistle:  (that was back when you could find ammo).  So even though it broke a few times, I have nothing bad to say about it!  

 

Do you have any pictures of your set up?  Also how do you have yours attached (if using the MKIII)?

[graycrait]

Here is the simple way to mount an Ultradot

 

[jeff43]

Check out a Millet red dot.They are around $60

[krunchnik]

I have the Bushnell First strike Mini Dot on my Ruger 22/45-in my opinion they work quite well and the physical size is smaller which I like.The only problem is the dot is 5mil which is a little large for long range plinking(I dont worry bout that cause I cant hit the barn when I am inside it anyways)

[graycrait]

Just wanted to remind folks of a cheap grip improvement that makes a base 22/45 feel like a top end one:  VQ trigger & sear and Hogue grip with the back cut off

 

[R1100R]

I use the Bushnell TRS on my cheaper .22's. But it is hard to beat a Ultradot "matchdot" for what you get.

[Jonnin]

Do you have any pictures of your set up?  Also how do you have yours attached (if using the MKIII)?

 

It is actually a mark 2 22/45. The differences in the frame are small, mostly mark 3 just messed up the trigger system and made the grips a little more friendly.  So I had to get the barrel tapped and a rail put on it.  Once that was done it looks a lot like the picture greycrit posted above, except my grip is different.    I knocked my front sight off and the RD is as balanced as I could get it (so, its as far back as I could get it) -- its not bad for balance.

 

I can take a pic of it if you still need one, but pics are a pain for me, I will have to find my camera and find a hosting site and all that.  It is not something I do much.

[ls3_kid]

It is actually a mark 2 22/45. The differences in the frame are small, mostly mark 3 just messed up the trigger system and made the grips a little more friendly.  So I had to get the barrel tapped and a rail put on it.  Once that was done it looks a lot like the picture greycrit posted above, except my grip is different.    I knocked my front sight off and the RD is as balanced as I could get it (so, its as far back as I could get it) -- its not bad for balance.

 

I can take a pic of it if you still need one, but pics are a pain for me, I will have to find my camera and find a hosting site and all that.  It is not something I do much.

 

No you're fine.  Thank you for the input though.  I am still weighing my options.  I purchased a Burris Fast Fire III yesterday from Amazon but then canceled it. 

[molonlabetn]

I'll second the Burris Fast Fire... Or a Trijicon RMR.

[gnmwilliams]

Bushnell TRS 1x25. Great price and durability. Found mine online for $75 on sale. Good battery life too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited May 7, 2014 by gnmwilliams

[Guest theconstitutionrocks]

I have a cheapo day glo red dot on mine and it works great....I routinely group under 2" at 25 yds with off the shelf remington 36gr hollow point....on really good days I get it down to an inch...

 

Disclaimer....I AM firing supported off a bench.

[Jonnin]

I have a cheapo day glo red dot on mine and it works great....I routinely group under 2" at 25 yds with off the shelf remington 36gr hollow point....on really good days I get it down to an inch...

 

Disclaimer....I AM firing supported off a bench.

 

The biggest difference in the pricey ones and the cheap ones are 2 things:

1) *some* of the cheaper models do not have a good warranty and, being cheap, eventually something breaks (usually the on/off switch)

2) most of the cheaper ones have a large dot that covers too much of the target and lack the extra adjustments.  Mine has 6 or 8 dot sizes from "you cant see it at all" to "covers the target entirely"  and 10 or so brightness settings from "you cant see it" to "visible at noon in july on a sunny day".   It has polarized and shaded lens covers for use in a variety of lighting situations.   Some of the really fancy ones have multiple dot shapes and colors on top of all this.   Whether any of that has value to the buyer though?    The only settings I use are the dot size and brightness between indoor and outdoor settings.   The rest of it is largely excess.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

I had a rather big cheap 40mm bsa red dot on the mark II slabside for many years, and it never broke and still works today mounted on a beretta storm 9mm rifle.

 

Then I tried a small konus red dot that is an inexpensive lookalike to the sig small red dot. It works ok, but I was having some issues made me suspect either it was shifting on the rail, or the dot was drifting. Maybe there isn't anything wrong with it except that I can't shoot worth a flip. Didn't spend a lot of time debugging it. I removed the red dot, mounted a fiberoptic front sight, and shoot better with the fiberoptic front sight than with the red dot.

 

Have never used those "long tube" red dots, but suspect a long tube red dot would be better because it would force more precision lining up the gun to see the dot at all.

 

Except for the few holographic sights, the typical reflex sights only have a true point of aim if you point the gun so that the dot is in the middle of the circle. If the dot is not exactly at the center of the view circle, the point of aim will move. It is easy to center the dot with a rifle, because of the cheek weld always being about the same place, but it is hard for me to always know that the dot is at the center with a pistol. A wider tube gives a better field of view, easier to initially acquire the dot, but for me more difficult to judge whether the dot is centered. The un-centered point of aim only drifts an inch or two at typical handgun distances, but with a target .22 that kinda defeats the purpose.

 

The only sight I've used that doesn't have this issue is the eotech, a pleasure to use, but maybe there are smaller, cheaper, good quality holographics out there somewhere.

Edited May 8, 2014 by Lester Weevils