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AR-15 BCG's?


that_guy

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Posted

Ok, so some of you may know that I am building a new AR. The next part I plan on purchasing would be the BCG. I was wondering, which would be the "best" BCG to go with. Would it be the NiB one that AIM is putting out, the Phosphate one by Spike's Tactical, or spend the extra $70 on a Black Nitride one? I don't really know much about these, only AIM doesn't HPT their BCG's (At least as far as I know) and NiB is pretty slick. Phosphate needs to be maintained more, but Spike's Tactical is an awesome company (once again, at least from what I have heard) And Black Nitride is more expensive, yet more durable and still pretty slick, without the "glare" effect from the NiB BCG. Is all this true, or is this some internet monkey nonsense that has no idea what he's talking about? Tell me which one you would go with and why. Thanks in advance :)

Posted (edited)

Dont forget nickel boron. Easier to clean, but eventually discolors. Thats what the guys told me and I am extremely inclined to believe them. So far, this group never steered me wrong with any questions. Just got me to buy more things ;)

 

The later it gets in the evening, the worse my spelling becomes.

Edited by RC3
Posted
Its likely that you'll end up with several. Like I said in your last thread, go set all the AIM BCG to alert you when they come in and get the first one that does. For $79. - $129. You won't find a better bargain for the money. I like the nitride and the more I read up on it the more I like it.
Posted

Its likely that you'll end up with several. Like I said in your last thread, go set all the AIM BCG to alert you when they come in and get the first one that does. For $79. - $129. You won't find a better bargain for the money. I like the nitride and the more I read up on it the more I like it.

The only one actually available right now is the NiB one. I'm kind of impatient, so I guess I will pick that one up.

Posted

The only one actually available right now is the NiB one. I'm kind of impatient, so I guess I will pick that one up.


You won't be disappointed. :up:
Posted (edited)
I have a chrome bcg from rock river arms. It works well and is easier to clean than the standard, but it isn't polished or anything fancy. Edited by Ted S.
Posted
I've used everything from phosphate to Rubber City Armory's magical slick as snot carrier. Other than ease of cleaning (not a huge deal for me) I can't honestly tell you I see a difference for the money I paid. In the last 3 builds I've used the cheapest I could find from a company I knew I could trust. Those 3 are phosphate, I keep them wet, and they run like a top
  • Like 1
Posted

Dont forget nickel boron. Easier to clean, but eventually discolors. Thats what the guys told me and I am extremely inclined to believe them. So far, this group never steered me wrong with any questions. Just got me to buy more things ;)

 

The later it gets in the evening, the worse my spelling becomes.

The company that I bought my nickel boron bcg claims that you can run it without lubrication.  I haven't ran it dry but nickel boron and chrome are a breeze to clean.  You just wipe of the carbon.  The only place I need to scrub is right below the gas rings on the bolt.

Posted

The Nitride BCG from AIM is also a good buy. I put one in my SaberD-stein build I did, she needed to be broken in and didn't really wanna go into battery on that first round.

  • Admin Team
Posted

Even with the new magic coatings (Nickel Boron, Titanium Nitride, etc...), AR's are still AR's.  Don't make the mistake of thinking that just because it's easier to clean that you can neglect proper lubrication.  A lot of big magazines/writers seem to be falling for/promoting this fallacy right now.  It shows that their use/maintenance of the platform is strictly casual rather than professional.  Outside of homebuilt Frankenstein type ARs, I'd wager that at least half of stoppages can be attributed to improper lubrication

 

ARs run best when they're lubed appropriately.  When it comes to properly lubricating a BCG, err on the side of running it wet.  You might get dirty and get some grease on that pretty new plate carrier, but your weapon is a lot likelier to keep running when it needs to.

 

I love my NiB bolt carrier groups.  But, run them dry and they'll eventually stop.

  • Like 2
Guest semiautots
Posted

Even with the new magic coatings (Nickel Boron, Titanium Nitride, etc...), AR's are still AR's.  Don't make the mistake of thinking that just because it's easier to clean that you can neglect proper lubrication.  A lot of big magazines/writers seem to be falling for/promoting this fallacy right now.  It shows that their use/maintenance of the platform is strictly casual rather than professional.  Outside of homebuilt Frankenstein type ARs, I'd wager that at least half of stoppages can be attributed to improper lubrication

 

ARs run best when they're lubed appropriately.  When it comes to properly lubricating a BCG, err on the side of running it wet.  You might get dirty and get some grease on that pretty new plate carrier, but your weapon is a lot likelier to keep running when it needs to.

 

I love my NiB bolt carrier groups.  But, run them dry and they'll eventually stop.

 

Agreed, but if you shoot suppressed, you'll get a face full of lube.  If you ever want to go quiet, look at a piston setup.

  • Admin Team
Posted

I generally do run suppressed.  I don't get a much blowback, but I guess some is to be expected

 

Everything has its price.

Posted
[quote name="semiautots" post="1136182" timestamp="1397064004"]Agreed, but if you shoot suppressed, you'll get a face full of lube. If you ever want to go quiet, look at a piston setup.[/quote] I never experienced this with my suppressed weapon, and I shot a lot. If you're getting lube spat back at you, you're using too much. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Guest semiautots
Posted

I never experienced this with my suppressed weapon, and I shot a lot. If you're getting lube spat back at you, you're using too much. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

I have about a dozen cans, and even with a light coating, I get a greasy face!  Not so with the two piston SBR's I have.

Posted
I spent a few thousand rounds out of my MK18 with a KA suppressor on it and never got anything in the face even once. Using a thin viscosity lube, not thick CLP. That's out of a 10.5 barrel. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Guest semiautots
Posted

I spent a few thousand rounds out of my MK18 with a KA suppressor on it and never got anything in the face even once. Using a thin viscosity lube, not thick CLP. That's out of a 10.5 barrel. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Maybe I'm just hyper sensitive!

Posted
[quote name="semiautots" post="1136312" timestamp="1397079546"]Maybe I'm just hyper sensitive![/quote] Well I ain't used a can on a piston rifle before, but I suppose it makes a lot of sense that you'd have less chamber spittle coming out of a non-DI weapon. Now that I think about it, I've never been spat on by an AK before. I've been spat on by AR pattern rifles plenty though, and it was always because of too much of that thick CLP they use in the military. You can look at the side of a person's rifle on the range and see all the spatter on the weapon coming from the ejection port as well as the smoke coming off the ejected brass. These, and all the dried oil/carbon on their shooting glasses, were indicators of too much lube. I used a thin viscosity strike hold, which is about as thick as WD-40. I use a light amount and never get spat on. I found that thick lube mixes with desert dust and creates a nasty gunk. With the thin stuff I hardly had to clean my rifle and didnt have smoking cartridges flying out of my port. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted

If the gun is properly gasses you will get no more gas/debris in your face than without a suppressor. Problem with most suppressed guns is people slap them on there without any concerns over the excessive gas pressures. And just like any other gun that is over gassed you end up with additional recoil, additional wear and a lot of crud with some of that crud coming back at the shooter.

 

The reason why suppressed weapons throw crud in the face of the shooter is because, just like an over gassed gun, they unlock when there is a lot more pressure in the barrel. If your gas system is adjusted so the same amount of pressure reaches the bolt with and without a suppressor the amount of crud coming back at the shooter will be the same. Dial down the gas and it takes longer to unlock and this allows some of the pressures to subside before the bolt unlocks.

 

And I couldn't make a statement about gas systems without saying that everyone should be running an adjustable gas block unless you are absolutely sure your gas system is tuned. 90% of the manufacturers out there are running over gassed guns.

Guest semiautots
Posted

If the gun is properly gasses you will get no more gas/debris in your face than without a suppressor. Problem with most suppressed guns is people slap them on there without any concerns over the excessive gas pressures. And just like any other gun that is over gassed you end up with additional recoil, additional wear and a lot of crud with some of that crud coming back at the shooter.

 

The reason why suppressed weapons throw crud in the face of the shooter is because, just like an over gassed gun, they unlock when there is a lot more pressure in the barrel. If your gas system is adjusted so the same amount of pressure reaches the bolt with and without a suppressor the amount of crud coming back at the shooter will be the same. Dial down the gas and it takes longer to unlock and this allows some of the pressures to subside before the bolt unlocks.

 

And I couldn't make a statement about gas systems without saying that everyone should be running an adjustable gas block unless you are absolutely sure your gas system is tuned. 90% of the manufacturers out there are running over gassed guns.

 

I wish I could do that to my pistols!!  And I think the manufacturers do it so they won't have any warranty work.  I run suppressed and nonsuppressed.  Makes having an adjustable gas system invaluable.

Posted

What kind of pistols?

 

This is what I do to my MK Rugers. For guns shooting supersonics with a suppressor you need a weight that weighs ~2-2.1 ounces. You can add one for subsonics too but it needs to be a lot lighter. It also makes racking the slide so much easier. The extra weight keeps the bolt closed a fraction of a second longer and that keeps the gun a lot cleaner. It also SUBSTANTIALLY reduces the port noise.

 

I bet you could use a heavier recoil spring to do the same thing with locked breech guns.

f6ddf4aa.jpgbolt_zps93792227.jpg

Guest semiautots
Posted

Glock 21 and FNX 45 with an Osprey.  Glock 26 & 17 with an Evo.  Full auto closed bolt mini-uzi with a Mossad II.  GSG with a Gemtech integral (awesome).  A few .22's.  I shoot em all with and without cans. 

Posted

I got my Aim NiB V2 this weekend.  I like it. 

 

 

IMG_3792_zps276c31ce.jpg

 

Glaring flaw there beneath the top lugs, better send it back. ;)

 

- OS

Posted

Glaring flaw there beneath the top lugs, better send it back. ;)

 

- OS

 

 

Clearly a failure point.  Definitely going to have to send it back.  

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