Door Lock questions

[vontar]

I am in the process of having my front door replaced.

In the process, we are going to increase from 28 inch to a 32 inch door.

 

I am having a prehung, steel door put in.  No window glass near the door handle.

 

My question is about locks. 

 

My budget for this job, does allow me one pretty good lock.

 

I am thinking about something very similar to the following.

 

Schlage FE595 CAM 716 ACC Camelot Keypad Entry with Flex-Lock and Accent Levers, Aged Bronze
by Schlage Lock Company
Link: http://amzn.com/B001COGRKU

 

My question is related to the following.

 

Do you think that is good enough or should I spring and add a similar deadbolt as well?

 

 

I thought about, having him drill it out and use my existing deadbolt and then later upgrade should be easier.

 

Opinions?    BTW, I am pretty set on this lock.  So I am really just wondering how much I need to be concerned with a deadbolt.

 

 

EDIT, corrected listed lock.

Edited April 5, 2014 by vontar

[bersaguy]

It's funny but I was having a similar issue about front door locks. Up until about 5 years ago I lived here and never even locked my door. Now I am very lock conscious and considering adding a dead bolt lock to my door. Maybe even two. A Buddy said he would put in as many as I bought for me.

[runco]

I may be door dumb, but what good is a quality door and lock without a solid door jam? 

[peejman]

Deadbolts are cheap. I'd feel weird without one.

[vontar]

This is now a moot point.

 

Yes, I am adding a new Dead bolt while I am at it.  The door is pre drilled for 2 locks.  It would be a waste to not use 2 new ones while I am at it.

I just got back looking at both the door and locks.

 

I am not going as fancy on the Deadbolt as the main lock, but I am adding a Grade 1 Schlage Deadbolt.  It fits in my budget for this project.

Edited April 5, 2014 by vontar

[hkusp40cal]

If you are looking for one that is almost un-pickable, look at a mul-t-lock.  My buddy showed me how easy normal locks are to pick if you know what you are doing.  The Schlage Primus and the Medeco are also very good at resisting key bumping.

Edited April 5, 2014 by hkusp40cal

[peejman]

Keep in mind that the shiny brass finish fades and peels over time.

[vontar]

I may be door dumb, but what good is a quality door and lock without a solid door jam? 

I have a contractor doing my install.  I pretty much told him I want it as secure as we can do it.

 

Also, adding a security Storm door at the same time.  So 2 doors, 2 locks.

 

I will try to remember to post a before and after.

[daveW]

On residential doors, the jamb is typically the weak point-even with those reinforcement plates. If you can get away with an outswing door and reinforce the framing around the jamb, that would help. That puts the door stop on the inside of door if it were to be kicked. Now, though, you need a plate to prevent outside access to latch and deadbolt. The plate makes it more difficult to force the jamb away from door near latch/ bolt via crowbar, etc.

[vontar]

If you are looking for one that is almost un-pickable, look at a mul-t-lock.  My buddy showed me how easy normal locks are to pick if you know what you are doing.

 

These Schlage locks are suppose to have that covered.

 

 

Keep in mind that the shiny brass finish fades and peels over time.

 

Yea, we are getting the black finish.  I know anything can fade.

[otnman]

[quote name="Runco" post="1134067" timestamp="1396657601"]I may be door dumb, but what good is a quality door and lock without a solid door jam? [/quote] I am in the door business, this is a very good point. If you are going with an inswing wood jamb, the best lock in the world will do nothing. The job will split easily when forced open. For security you need a metal frame outswing. Not foolproof, but much more secure. If you do stick with a wood jamb, find the biggest strike you can and use then longest screws you can... Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[Gun Smith]

 Like most know, the old adage "locks only keep honest people out" is fairly true.   However,  a good door and lock will help slow down a thief or give you time to slow him down.

 

One morning I went out the back door of my house and as soon as I closed the door I realized that I had left my keys inside.  Not wanting to wake my wife and son,  I decided to see if I could "card" my door.   I slipped to door open so quickly and quietly, it scared the crap out of me.  

 

From that time on I have always locked the dead bolt, which prevents the door from being carded.  Sure, someone could kick the door in with a lot of effort or just go to a glass opening, but they are going to make a lot of noise coming in that way.

[otnman]

[quote name="vontar" post="1134098" timestamp="1396659664"]These Schlage locks are suppose to have that covered. [/quote] schlage commercial keyways yes. Residential not so much...with a little lock pick knowledge they can easily be defeated... Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[Hershmeister]

Dumb question but if someone wants to break in all they have yo so is bust a window

[otnman]

[quote name="Hershmeister" post="1134105" timestamp="1396660190"]Dumb question but if someone wants to break in all they have yo so is bust a window[/quote] yes Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[hkusp40cal]

unless you go crazy and lexan those bad boys!

[Peace]

Dumb question but if someone wants to break in all they have yo so is bust a window

 

Not dumb... but not a question either....   :tinfoil:

[tnguy]

I always like a deadbolt that can lock with a key from the inside. I figure they might be able to find a tricky way in but there's no reason to let them walk out the front door with all your stuff.

 

(This is in addition to a regular one-way lock which)

Edited April 5, 2014 by tnguy

[Guest Lowbuster]

You will be surprised at what a door stop on the inside will do. When I traveled and stayed in hotels, I put two doorstops at floor each night. I drilled holes in the back of them and put string through them so I could grab the string and pull both out in case I needed to get out quick. If it was a real bad place. Wood shims went in the top of door too

[hipower]

I always like a deadbolt that can lock with a key from the inside. I figure they might be able to find a tricky way in but there's no reason to let them walk out the front door with all your stuff.
 
(This is in addition to a regular one-way lock which)

Yes. Add a deadbolt to the package. Especially one keyed to match.

[Glenn]

Years ago some low life kicked in my door. Went back with a stave core door ( solid wood strips glued together and covered with veneer, 2 deadbolts with super strong strike reinforcement. Came home one day and someone had obviously spent quite a while kicking and prying on the door without success. So they hooked something to a window and pulled the entire window out of the house. Lost my stuff and had a huge repair bill.

Edited April 5, 2014 by Glenn

[tnguy]

Just FWIW, the link you posted in the original post is to a deadbolt. It doesn't sound like you're going for two deadbolts though?

[monkeylizard]

Toss out those 1/2" -3/4" screws that come for the mounting plates and put in 3" deck screws (pre drill to prevent splintering). The frame is the weak point, especially with your steel door. Get the longest strike plate that you can fit in there. That will spread the force of blows to the door across a wider area on the frame reducing the likelihood of the wood splintering.

[runco]

Vontar this is what you need man:

 

[URL=http://s963.photobucket.com/user/runco0318/media/steelvaultdoor_zpsf5df8b89.jpg.html][/URL]

 

I actually want one of these in my next house for my gun room!

[vontar]

Just FWIW, the link you posted in the original post is to a deadbolt. It doesn't sound like you're going for two deadbolts though?

 

Thanks, fixed,

 

Schlage FE595 CAM 716 ACC Camelot Keypad Entry with Flex-Lock and Accent Levers, Aged Bronze
by Schlage Lock Company
Link: http://amzn.com/B001COGRKU

 

Toss out those 1/2" -3/4" screws that come for the mounting plates and put in 3" deck screws (pre drill to prevent splintering). The frame is the weak point, especially with your steel door. Get the longest strike plate that you can fit in there. That will spread the force of blows to the door across a wider area on the frame reducing the likelihood of the wood splintering.

 

Yea, He already knows I want that.  He is already going to be re framing some as he goes as he has to cut out the opening to fit it in.