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HYM Freefloat Handrail Jam Nut?


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I've ordered a HYM 7" carbine ff handguard for my M&P15, which looks good on their site and is cheaper than MI or Troy. My other FF handrail on M&P10 was a MI with all tools needed were supplied with handguard. The YHM website installation instructions says an armorer's wrench (which I have) and a YHM Forearm wrench (YHM-9621) is needed to tighten jam nut. I don't have their jam nut tool.

 

Can the jam nut be tighten by some other means and not scratch or deform jam nut without paying $30 for their YHM 9621 tool? There seems to be a racket by some manufacturers to sale tools only needed for their products.

Edited by lshel
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I used a castle nut wrench. Just hook the front nipple on the jam nut. Hold in place with one hand and turn with the other. I believe YHM will recommend som blue loctite in the jam nut as well. You can use a flat head screwdriver and light tap with a hammer too. Just don't hammer too hard or you'll dent the jam nut
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I used a castle nut wrench. Just hook the front nipple on the jam nut. Hold in place with one hand and turn with the other. I believe YHM will recommend som blue loctite in the jam nut as well. You can use a flat head screwdriver and light tap with a hammer too. Just don't hammer too hard or you'll dent the jam nut

The voice of experience? :cool:

Edited by RED333
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[quote name="RED333" post="1128875" timestamp="1395604893"]The voice of experience? :cool:[/quote] This was removing the nut that had been on for a few years using a flat screwdriver. Good news is you can buy a new jam nut for about $12 if you bigger it up AD01F8E7-A5C2-4068-B289-EBD1AA56F126_zps

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Keep in mind they don't have to be tightened too much... the set screw will lock in and keep the rail from turning if the barrel nut is on tight.  You can get a piece of derlin or a plastic punch.  Brass works too but you have to be careful it doesn't slip.

 

I use a CNC tool holder spanner wrench.  As Lumberjack says you can catch one of the slots with the head and tighten a bit.  I snug all of mine and then lock the set screws.  To the point you can remove the set screws and untighten the rail by hand.

 

Never had one back off

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I'll probably use a brass tip punch or a nylon tip bunch, since I have both of these. I don't have a castle nut wrench either. thanks

 

I think I have a YHM wrench around here.  If you still need it, shoot me a PM with your address and I will send it to you.  Just return it when you are done.

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I received and installed YHM 7" Customizable free float forearm (carbine) today. I selected this model so I could add a top main rail and a possible short bottom rail. I had to install top rail to align forearm to receiver rail. I then tried to install gas tube. I removed bolt and looked down gas tube hole in receiver and rail screw was partially blocking hole. I removed top rail and was able to install gas tube and front A2 sight with no problem. Two top rail screws were .235" long and one .245" long.  I was able to install all but front screw which is closest to barrel nut. Using a digital micrometer, I measured from rail thru screw hole to gas tube, 0.105". this will only leave about 3 threads to screw into forearm. Will this amount of threads hold with blue locktite? I'm assuming if I install the .235" long screw it will abrade maybe a hole in gas tube thru use.

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