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Thought I had the Tisas problems fixed, serious questions (Might need a gun doctor)


Guest TankerHC

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Guest TankerHC

So I went over and over this gun today trying to figure out the problem. I decided to pull it and just take it to the range tomorrow, it SEEMED to be functioning correctly after I had got it back together, after doing this and that to it but nothing mechanical. So its doing something I have not seen on a 1911 and it is related to the original problem that I thought I had fixed. Actually it id doing two things Ill mention and unless someone has a good answer, Ill post a video tomorrow of what it is doing and photos of it stripped. Wanted to check everything first so I wouldn't look like a dummy from just missing the obvious.

 

1. The hammer falls from the cocked position without depressing the palm safety, not the past cocked position. Thats a major issue that I am pretty sure I know the problem. But I also do not know if it is related to the other problem.

 

2. You may recall I could not get the slide to go past the halfway mark on the frame. I removed a tiny piece of metal that clearly was left over from machining and it slid back on, put the weapon back together and passed a couple of functions checks. Intended to take it to the range tomorrow with some other guns to test out. While doing a functions check a couple of issues arose.

 

a. The slide catches in the half way position. 

 

b. The slide will not go back from the hammer forward position without using some serious force. When it does go back, it is catching halfway. You can feel the click and the "hesitation?" when forcing the slide back. So it is definitely catching on something, There appears to be no wear, nicks or anything else on the disconnector or any other part for that matter. But something is definitely wrong. 

 

While I have googled the issue, I cant seem to locate anything other than the hammer falling to half cocked when the slide is brought back, which isnt my issue, and some poor advice (Take it to the range and shoot it, see if it shoots.). Testing a gun to see if it will blow up or not isn't how I like to test guns. 

 

I am considering just ordering a complete rebuild kit. But before I start ordering parts, I dont want to do the "replace every part until I find the problem" method. So in consideration that I may look like an idiot from missing the obvious (Which is more acceptable than having a gun blow up in my hand). What could it be?

 

It isnt magazines. It isnt the ejector or disconnector The gun is re-assembled correctly, I checked and double checked that. 

 

I have heard of rails being manufactured unevenly. Is this a possibility? And if so how would you measure that and what do you do to even up the rails?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

J

Edited by TankerHC
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Remove hammer, mainspring, sear, etc.  Work the slide on the bare frame.  Still catching?

You've more than one problem.  Start at the basic - slide/frame fit - and work up from there. 

Edited by Mark@Sea
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Guest TankerHC

Didn't Bud's offer to exchange it?  It's a lemon.

 

Yes, But I decided to keep it. I posted that in a follow up. Figured I could fix it.  

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Guest TankerHC

Really; get rid of it, already.

 

Fraid not. First off, at this point I wouldn't sell it because a. I wouldnt sell a gun to someone I dont trust to shoot myself and b. I would lose too much money. I actually didnt ask for opinions on whether I should buy or sell, I asked for suggestions on which parts I should change out or attempt to repair.

 

When its repaired, I may sell it, but not until then. 

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Guest TankerHC

You paid $300 and some change, what did you expect to get. Send it back add another $300 to it when you can and get a Springfield GI, Range Officer, or anything else you want.


No, i paid 600 + the 90 for the shotgun deal. If it were the 300 gi it would already be a parts gun.

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Guest TankerHC

Yeah, cut your losses and move into something better.

 

This thing is a lemon.  Why throw good money at bad?  Even if you got it functioning appropriately, would you ever fully trust it?

 

Thats one thing I was thinking last night. I dont know how many times over the years I said "I find it hard to believe you bought a Remington, Colt, or "add any name here" that was that bad. I suppose there are lemons in everything, someone has to get it I suppose. Cousin of mine has a Springfield right now that he is having all sorts of problems with that I havent seen yet, he plans on taking it to his local Armory to get repaired because it just wont shoot a magazine without a malfunction. This was before I purchased this and I asked him  "Your sure you not doing something wrong?".

 

Too many people are happy with their Tisas 1911's for this to be a standard thing off the line. I plan on fixing this now regardless of what I need to do. Its more of a challenge than anything because I have plenty of 1911's to shoot. 

Edited by TankerHC
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Guest TankerHC

I think I am going up to SW and pick up that "Everything 1911" repair book then run by Shooters Depot and see what they have parts for 1911's. 

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The grip safety is not properly fitted. No big deal as a lot of people disable them anyways. The grip safety is not a safety anyways, it is just there to ensure a proper grip.

 

As far as the other there are a few things to check.

 

When you say it is hard to move back from the hammer forward position. Is this in the first 1/4" of slide movement towards the rear? If so then the firing pin stop likely has a square bottom edge. You can remove it and use a file to break the edge. All it takes is about 5-10 strokes with a file or you can also use sandpaper on a flat surface.

 

If you want you are more than welcome to come out to my house and I can give it a very detailed look over. No promises on fixing it but I will probably be able to determine the problem.

 

Do you know if it is a 70 series or 80 series setup?

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Guest TankerHC

The grip safety is not properly fitted. No big deal as a lot of people disable them anyways. The grip safety is not a safety anyways, it is just there to ensure a proper grip.

 

As far as the other there are a few things to check.

 

When you say it is hard to move back from the hammer forward position. Is this in the first 1/4" of slide movement towards the rear? If so then the firing pin stop likely has a square bottom edge. You can remove it and use a file to break the edge. All it takes is about 5-10 strokes with a file or you can also use sandpaper on a flat surface.

 

If you want you are more than welcome to come out to my house and I can give it a very detailed look over. No promises on fixing it but I will probably be able to determine the problem.

 

Do you know if it is a 70 series or 80 series setup?

OK, so with the hammer down the slide will not rack at all unless I put force behind it. With the hammer back right here is where it starts. There is a loud click then it binds up to the halfway mark.Im going to do what you said to do before anything else. 

 

On a side note, take a look at that finish. Thats after polishing and was much worse out of the box.  This gun has not been anywhere other than in the box and on a cleaning pad. In the end this thing ran me $640. $600 for the gun, 10 buck background check and 30 for a transfer. But even for a $600 gun who would call that acceptable? Which is why, when I took it out of the box, I was not a happy camper. But as McGyver said, looks like I just got a lemon, and if it were a $300 gun I would have to agree with tjc. But Im over it ((I was actually over it the same day) and now just want to make sure it is functioning properly, and that I didnt miss something before shooting it. It did clean up pretty good, but there is no getting out the scratches and gouges (Or any way that I know of).And on a final note, take my word for it, if something doesnt look right, that is how it came apart (How it looked out of the box) and the only way to put it back together. I have been comparing it to other 1911's here and I swear there are parts like the thumb safety that do not look lined up properly. I may just have to drop it off with Dolomite.

 

I have never had a 1911 that I was afraid to pull the trigger on, until this one. 

 

20140310_130422_zps8135ec19.jpg

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Guest TankerHC

I don't understand why the pistol wasn't sent back to Bud.'s from the get go. It surely has no warranty now.

 

Buds was great when dealing with them. I had the return slips within a day or two. I was going to send it back but after thinking about it. First I was in the middle of some family business, then it was going to cost me another 30 for a transfer on return plus the extra 10 for a background check, not sure if it is the law or not but in the two local shops even if you pawn a gun (I dont, just saw the signs) you still have to do a background check to get your gun back. Forty more dollars, more time, I decided just to fix it myself. Regardless of my decision, the fact is it isnt Buds fault but certainly something like that coming off the line should not even have made it to Buds. Serious lack of QC. And to note, and I mentioned it in previously, I should have never accepted it in the first place.

 

So I am where I am. I am going to get it right, so I am looking for answers on what I need to do. First thing I am going to do is follow Dolomites advice. 

 

Should also say I am not going for any more deals like that. The Sig deal I would have took, because it is Sig. And I have pretty much made up my mind that any further firearms will be purchased either at a LGS or Academy. Since Academy only carries a few guns I want, most everything will be coming from an LGS that I can make acquaintances with the staff. I did it that way in MS, and never had a single problem and recieved plenty of good advice. No more twofer deals unless  it says Sig, Colt, Remington, etc. 

Edited by TankerHC
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Guest TankerHC

A replacement gun can be sent directly to you. You do not have to go through an FFL.

You cannot just drop the gun off with me. You cannot leave the gun with me either. I will take a look at it as a friend but you must stay here while I do. Also, I will not take a dime for looking at it.


Got it. I was thinking you were licenced gunsmith. My error. Shipping was back through an FFL. Spelled out in the instructions. No shipping materials to the destination just an email with shipping slip, so it would have had to go through an FFL. Year before last i had a similar issue with buds that I may have mentioned. I purchased a shotgun for my cousins birthday to be delivered to Freedom Armory in Seven Valleys Pa. He would have done the 4473 and picked up the gun. On top of that he is a CCL holder. Buds calls me back an hour later. Order cancelled because it a straw purchase. No it isn't. Disputed that. They refused to ship. Called Freedom and told them what they said. Again, not a straw purchase. They do it every day. Even called ATF. Is the gun going to Freedom? Can he legally possess the gun. Will he be doing a background check? Not a straw purchase. Still didn't get the gun. If a business wants to do business that way. Fine, its their business and if they feel that is protecting themselves. Fine again as long as it doesn't cost me. But yea, I'll bring the gun so you can take a look. Headed to the Gulf Coast tomorrow can set something up when you have some time.

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Guest TankerHC

I really thought about these Tisas's today . I had just seen a review by Hickok45 . His was really reliable . But I can see your problem too . 

 

Well what I have to say about Tisas. 

 

First much of the issue was mine. I purchased the gun and got a little overzealous in the fact that for 90 bucks extra I was getting a 12 gauge HD gun along with it. I don't get overly excited about anything, but I was getting a "free" gun. Then the gun came, and I inspected it. I never take a gun that I haven't inspected thoroughly. When I went in, I was too anxious to get home with the guns, lube em up and head to the range, so I wasn't thorough enough. I own half a dozen different brands right now, and have purchased plenty of no names in the past. But I always did my research and took days before purchasing. I did no research on these guns or I would have known the reviews were hit and miss and I wouldn't have purchased it. And lastly about 8 or 9 months ago someone here bought a shotgun (I think it was a shotgun) from Academy, I (And others) made a lot of comments about inspecting guns before purchasing. He was missing a part. I said "Should have inspected it and checked the box for parts and whatnot since you buy it and you walk out with it they tell you it is yours". What do I do, 8 months later turn around and do the exact same thing that I was preaching about. 

 

Look around, you will see with Tisas that there are nearly as many negative reviews as good reviews. A lot of guys on various forums and sites said they are not mature enough yet, they would buy only after they have another couple of years in the business of making 1911's for the public. I agree, now.

 

So I have to accept 100% responsibility for keeping the gun, but they have 100% responsibility for their QC. Buds was just a middle man, I doubt very seriously that they look in the boxes, they drop ship. Plus I dont think I could have gotten better service.

 

Any sub 700 dollar gun I get any time in the near future is going to have ARC.Philippines, or Armscor stamped on it. Or a Para.  I dont need any more (Want any more) GI's and I might as well save the money and buy Colt, Remington, etc if I am going to go above 700. So are the Tisas good guns? Mine isnt. Doesnt mean they are all bad. But for the 600 dollar asking price. There are a ton of better options. Like the ROck Two Tone Tactical. 

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Tanker,

When I bought my metro arms commander I had some issues out of the box. Dolomite was gracious enough to offer his services, met him at his house, met his lovely wife and he got me up and running. I would definitely give him first look before spending more time or money
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