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Horrible luck with AR lately


Lumber_Jack

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[quote name="Oh Shoot" post="1117640" timestamp="1393536887"]Sure it's Allen and not Torx, right?[/quote] Yep allen for sure. I'm not sure you can fathom how small the key was. Hence why it broke so easily. I was turning away, the screw stopped and I didn't realize it, twisted the thing right off
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What size allen wrench? I have several .05" wrenches that go with a lower receiver set screw. If that's your size, I'll be glad to mail you a couple.

 

 

 

If I had to guess I'd say it's a .7mm or .02"

 

The smallest hex keys I have in my kit are

 

.035" / .89mm
.050" / 1.3mm

 

Looking through my kit, I found a spare .035" hex bit (I think I accidentally ordered 2 at some point in the distant past). Anyway, it's been sitting unused for years; It's yours for the asking.

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[quote name="NashvilleStage" post="1117671" timestamp="1393540365"]The smallest hex keys I have in my kit are .035" / .89mm .050" / 1.3mm Looking through my kit, I found a spare .035" hex bit (I think I accidentally ordered 2 at some point in the distant past). Anyway, it's been sitting unused for years; It's yours for the asking.[/quote] I really appreciate that. I'm going to let it simmer for a day, look at it again this weekend and of I can't find a solution I may get that from you.
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I really appreciate that. I'm going to let it simmer for a day, look at it again this weekend and of I can't find a solution I may get that from you.

Good move.

I have made things worse by being a bit pissed and try to "fix" things.

 

On another note, you could just send me all your AR stuff, you pay shipping. :wave: :cool:

Edited by RED333
  • Like 1
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One good thing about it being so small, not to much torque will be on it.  I am the master at breaking bolts, rounding nuts, and stripping threads.  I have many easy-outs, but you have to drill a hole in the center of the broken item for the easy out to grab.

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[quote name="Garufa" post="1117705" timestamp="1393544044"]The screw would be easy enough to remove with some needle-nose pliers without damaging the threads. BTW, I see you have you hammer ready. :lol: When all else fails beat it![/quote] That's my motto. "If it doesn't fit, get a bigger hammer"
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[quote name="Trekbike" post="1117756" timestamp="1393549240"]If it's just a matter of a broken Allen wrench, is there enough of it left to use some heat and bend a new 90?[/quote] No need for heat, just bent it with my fingers. But after that it just twisted like a candy cane.
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Okay, I'll try a couple more.

 

  • I'm assuming there is a small section of wrench left.  Can you use visegrips and clamp on the end of the wrench enough to use it as a makeshift allen wrench?   If so, choke up on the wrench as close to the end as you can so it's less likely to twist into again.  
  • It's hard to tell in the picture but if there is enough threads exposed could you find two nuts that fit the threads and screw them on using one as a jam nut and then unscrew the set screw?
Edited by Trekbike
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[quote name="Trekbike" post="1117769" timestamp="1393551242"] Okay, I'll try a couple more. [list] [*]I'm assuming there is a small section of wrench left. Can you use visegrips and clamp on the end of the wrench enough to use it as a makeshift allen wrench? If so, choke up on the wrench as close to the end as you can so it's less likely to twist into again. [*]It's hard to tell in the picture but if there is enough threads exposed could you find two nuts that fit the threads and screw them on using one as a jam nut and then unscrew the set screw? [/list][/quote] Yes there is small section if good wrench left. I'll try the vise grips first. The set screw is so small I'm not sure about option 2
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Take a bench grinder and grind 1/8 off the short side. This does two things, first it removes the rounded end and second it leaves a edge that should help grab. You will likely have to tap it into the allend screw.

Next I would do as Trekbike said and use a set of vice grips to grab the wrench as close to the setscrew as possible. Make sure the vice grips are as tight as you can get them.

Then right before you decide to twist the set screw out apply heat. Apply the heat to the inside of the block to ensure no heat is applied to the set screw. Heat it enough that you cannot hold it. I would personally heat it up enough that spit on your fingers sizzle.

If you have the wrench JB welded inside the screw I would just apply heat like above and try.
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Got a phone call from Travis at Kies. He said if I'll send the gas block and tube. They'll ensure that I get the same tube or equal returned installed on a new block. He said there may be a thread but or something locking the set screw in. I'm gonna make one more attempt and getting the block off and if no joy I'll just mail it to them.
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Guest tangojuliet

Yeah but variety is the spice of life. You can only have so many old war horses before you get a hankering for a new thoroughbred.

true so true thats the reason after i build my 1903a3 im more tahn likely gonna buy a fal LOL

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[quote name="tangojuliet" post="1118037" timestamp="1393611319"]see this is the reason i stick to milsurps they tend not have as many problems :usa: :popcorn:[/quote] This was really a problem created by try to fix something that wasn't wrong. Are gas tubes a pain in the butt? Yes. But they're not impossible. If I'd known it wasn't a standard fast tube pin, I'd probably have passed
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Guest tangojuliet

This was really a problem created by try to fix something that wasn't wrong. Are gas tubes a pain in the butt? Yes. But they're not impossible. If I'd known it wasn't a standard fast tube pin, I'd probably have passed

i just like picking at AR 15 guys in general :)

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Well back up and punt. After getting home this evening I took a pair of needle nose vise grips and was able to back the screw out. Still befuddled I drove the gas tube out and reinserted. I feed the set screw in from both sides by hand and appears to go in smoothly. So I threaded in by hand and used the vise grips to get it as far as possible. I then used a small section of broken Allen key and vise grips and was able to get a few more turn. This left about 1/16th of the scene sticking out. So I had a decision to make. Back the screw out and mail it to Kies, or leave it as-is. Well I chose option 3 ;) I filed the remaining 1/16th off flat and I'm going to put a spot of JB Weld on both sides of the set screw, effectively making it permanent with the tube. Considering the block was $34 and shipping rates it didn't seem worth it to mail it off. If I do t like it later on, I'll drill the screw out and salvage the tube. I will post pics tomorrow and hopefully rounds down range. Edited by Lumber_Jack
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This was really a problem created by try to fix something that wasn't wrong. Are gas tubes a pain in the butt? Yes. But they're not impossible. If I'd known it wasn't a standard fast tube pin, I'd probably have passed

That is what I was thinking. I don't know why some people have to re-invent the wheel. The roll pin works just fine imo.

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[quote name="mcordell" post="1118947" timestamp="1393783404"]Glad you got it figured out! I looked at those gas blocks but looks like ill stick to my go to blocks BCM/VLTOR or Seekins if I need adjustable[/quote] Actually I'm disappointed in my Seekins block too. After bing installed and tuned for about a year I went to remove and the brass screw that holds the adjustment screw in place, stripped. So I can't operate it correctly. Sure I can turn the adjustment screw and add loctite, but the brass screw is supposed to prevent that. Also I don't like that the bras screw is on the barrel nut side of the block. Makes it vary hard to loosen for gas adjustments. If I buy another it will be SLR DA7 Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic
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