Non-firing reloads

[Dirty Gun]

I have been reloading 9mm for a few months and have reloaded a few thousand rounds without any major problems.  I just started to reload .45 auto with a lee press.  I have been using small primers casings (used and new).  My first problem was the shells were not ejecting properly with the minimum load data.  I loaded a few with the mid-load data and tried to fire them and could not them to fire (at all).  Should adjusted my primer?  Small dimple on the primer casing.  Shoots factory loads fine. (Glock 21)

[Guest BCR#1]

Throw away that plastic junk and buy a Sig 220, problem solved.

 

Bill

[Westwindmike]

I have a few small primer 45's and haven't reloaded them. They always look to me like the case head is concave. Just wondering if that is keeping the primer just out of reach from the firing pin?

[Greg_Mid_TN]

I had a similar problem back when I first started reloading.

 

Found out I had some small pistol primers that were shorter than normal. I thought they were completely seated, but they were not. When the firing pin struck the primer, the primer would slide further into the pocket and not ignite. I use only CCI No. 500 primers and make sure to seat them all the way in. I've had no further problems.

 

Hope this helps,

 

G.

[Dolomite_supafly]

You are putting too much of a crimp on the case mouth. There should be enough case mouth for a fingernail to grab.

 

You are lucky they did not fire. If the bullet is far enough in the chamber the throat can keep the case mouth from releasing the bullet. And when that happens pressures get astronomical pretty fast.

 

You should be flaring the case mouth then remove the flare and not crimp. You should be able to see the full thickness of the case mouth.

[GlockSpock]

You are putting too much of a crimp on the case mouth. There should be enough case mouth for a fingernail to grab.

 

You are lucky they did not fire. If the bullet is far enough in the chamber the throat can keep the case mouth from releasing the bullet. And when that happens pressures get astronomical pretty fast.

 

You should be flaring the case mouth then remove the flare and not crimp. You should be able to see the full thickness of the case mouth.

 

So you're saying that he is crimping the case to the bullet too tightly and thus allowing the entire cartridge too far into the chamber? I remember you telling me about this when I spoke with you many months ago.

 

As such, should I purchase a Lee 3 or 4 piece die set for reloading 9mm?

[Dirty Gun]

I had a similar problem back when I first started reloading.

 

Found out I had some small pistol primers that were shorter than normal. I thought they were completely seated, but they were not. When the firing pin struck the primer, the primer would slide further into the pocket and not ignite. I use only CCI No. 500 primers and make sure to seat them all the way in. I've had no further problems.

 

Hope this helps,

 

G.

I do use CCI No. 500 primers, I adjusted my primer seating a little and will try a few rounds tonight at the range.  I am using a four die setup for my 45's.  Thanks for the input.

[Westwindmike]

Shouldn't the extractor be holding the case back even if his case is not headspacing on the mouth?

[Raoul]

What brand of primer?

[Garufa]

What brand of primer?

 

Probably CCI 500's.  ;)

Edited February 24, 2014 by Garufa

[Dolomite_supafly]

Shouldn't the extractor be holding the case back even if his case is not headspacing on the mouth?

Depends on how loose the extractor is. Some guns have a lot of room, at least a lot more than the firing pin protrudes. I had a 1911 that had an extractor that was WAY loose. The groove was way too far forward.

Edited February 24, 2014 by Dolomite_supafly

[Raoul]

I ask about the primers because some of the Russian flavored ones can sometimes be a bit hard. And you know how Glocks can be.

[leroy]

It's one (...or several of...) three things.... Primers not seated fully... I always check 'em and seat with a hand seater to fix this problem; but ive got plenty of time to do this sort of thing... Crimp (...like dolomite says...) too tight... I like his advice about just flaring the case enough to get the bullet started seating; and no crimp... We always checked 'em the "poor boy" way by takin the barrel out and using it for a case gage... If the loaded round dropped down in the barrel passed the hood it wuz crimped too much (...i like the "no crimp" thing if ya can do it; or with the hard kickers; use just about a .001 to .002 crimp with a taper crimp die--- measure with a dial caliper...)... Three; the firing pin channel and pin is dirty and dragging... Fix by cleanin it up.... My bet is primers or crimp....

 

hope this helps a bit...

leroy

[Dirty Gun]

I adjusted the primer to seat fully and this solved the problem.  I reloaded and shot 5 rounds (primer only) without a problem.  Back to the range this week and shoot a few more fully loaded to see if this really solves my problem.  Thanks to everyone who commented.

 

Dirty Gun

[Dirty Gun]

What brand of primer?

CCI

[gregintenn]

If the problem was indeed that the primers weren't firmly seated, I expect the firing pin seated them on the first strike, and they should fire if you try them again. If they don't fire the second time, I'd look at the crimp.

[Dirty Gun]

So you're saying that he is crimping the case to the bullet too tightly and thus allowing the entire cartridge too far into the chamber? I remember you telling me about this when I spoke with you many months ago.

 

As such, should I purchase a Lee 3 or 4 piece die set for reloading 9mm?

I have a three die set for my 9mm (Lee Load-Master)  I have loaded several thousands round without a problem.

 

I purchased a four die set for my 45 auto and it is not a crimping problem, I was using the minimum load for the power and it just too light of a load.  Since I fixed my primer problem, I have gone to a load between the minimum and maximum suggested and will let you know how it goes.  I plan on shooting this weekend. 

[Dirty Gun]

It's one (...or several of...) three things.... Primers not seated fully... I always check 'em and seat with a hand seater to fix this problem; but ive got plenty of time to do this sort of thing... Crimp (...like dolomite says...) too tight... I like his advice about just flaring the case enough to get the bullet started seating; and no crimp... We always checked 'em the "poor boy" way by takin the barrel out and using it for a case gage... If the loaded round dropped down in the barrel passed the hood it wuz crimped too much (...i like the "no crimp" thing if ya can do it; or with the hard kickers; use just about a .001 to .002 crimp with a taper crimp die--- measure with a dial caliper...)... Three; the firing pin channel and pin is dirty and dragging... Fix by cleanin it up.... My bet is primers or crimp....

 

hope this helps a bit...

leroy

I appreciate the help.

[Guest SavageOne]

You are putting too much of a crimp on the case mouth. There should be enough case mouth for a fingernail to grab.

 

You are lucky they did not fire. If the bullet is far enough in the chamber the throat can keep the case mouth from releasing the bullet. And when that happens pressures get astronomical pretty fast.

 

You should be flaring the case mouth then remove the flare and not crimp. You should be able to see the full thickness of the case mouth.

 

Exactly!!