Carbon Steel Advice Needed (Ruger Security Six .357 Mag, Pictures)

[MiddTennTaco]

You'll have to excuse me as I am sick and typing this up on my phone. I have recently acquired a Ruger Security Six .357 mag in relatively rough shape. There is quite a bit of spotting and bluing loss from holster wear. However the mechanics of it are fantastic. It's really tight, solid lock up, timing etc.

In my opinion I think a quick sand or bead blasting would remove or hide most everything. Maybe I'm wrong, I don't know.

The real issue here is that these blued security sixes are made of carbon steel instead of stainless steel (I think). I am concerned with further rusting if I do remove what bluing is left. Correct me if I'm wrong but I've heard that bluing doesn't really do all that much for weathering. I have heard on the other hand that bead blasting can help prevent rust by being able to hold oil and closing the pores left in the metal by harsher sand blasting. I do not like a painted revolver neither am I interested in paying to get it painted. That would be horrendous. Ideally I'd just like to have a glass bead blasted finish if it would hold up to home/range duty if I keep it oiled. I might consider a non-polish rebluing or park if they will actually help and are super inexpensive. I can take the whole thing apart short of the rear sight and cylinder button under the barrel for any work needed to be done.

Any affirmations, suggestions, or comments are readily welcome. Give me a taste of reality based upon your experiences. Or I may just sell it! (Don't worry, I'm a benefactor! Lol)

[MiddTennTaco]

Wow, such terrible photos. I may put up new ones later...

[MiddTennTaco]

And if you know anybody who does any of this kind of work near Murfreesboro, let me know. Ya'll know what I'm looking for. Just no paint. If the metal underneath were nice and even I actually thought about sending it to Robar for nickel plating - $165! Lol

[timcalhoun]

Bead blasting will not help to protect the steel at all. In fact quite the opposite.

[Spots]

I have never tried this on a firearm. But here goes. On a lot of my knives, after cleaning them all up, I do a forced patina using mustard. It gives an intresting look and prevents must rust if you keep it lightly oiled. Have you given thought to something like that? Tapatalk ate my spelling.

[Dolomite_supafly]

If you media blast it using medium aluminum oxide it will give a very nice dull finish, almost like it has been parkerized. After media blasting using medium aluminum oxide use Brownells OxhoBue Crème. The crème seems to give a nice even coat compared to liquid and it also stays in place. After you have it blued rinse it well with warm water. Then oil like normal.

 

I did this to my wife's Savage in 45 ACP. I have yet to see a single sign of rust and I do not oil it very often.

 

Here is what the finish looks like afterwards:

Here is another picture:

[gregintenn]

Why not touch up the affected areas with cold blue?

[MiddTennTaco]

Bead blasting will not help to protect the steel at all. In fact quite the opposite.

 

I was really hoping no one would say that.

 

I have never tried this on a firearm. But here goes. On a lot of my knives, after cleaning them all up, I do a forced patina using mustard. It gives an intresting look and prevents must rust if you keep it lightly oiled. Have you given thought to something like that? Tapatalk ate my spelling.

 

That's a very interesting idea! I had actually done that to a large camp knife (tiger stripe). I ended up not liking it after a while so I just used mothers mag and polished the heck out of it. Come to think of it... It hasn't rusted! o.o I don't know what kind of luck I would have glass bead blasting and then trying to polish it. I don't know how I could get a nice or even force patina on the revolver though. Who knows what it would look like and would it REALLY offer any kind of advantage rust prevention wise - I don't know. I will think about that one.

 

If you media blast it using medium aluminum oxide it will give a very nice dull finish, almost like it has been parkerized. After media blasting using medium aluminum oxide use Brownells OxhoBue Crème. The crème seems to give a nice even coat compared to liquid and it also stays in place. After you have it blued rinse it well with warm water. Then oil like normal.

 

I did this to my wife's Savage in 45 ACP. I have yet to see a single sign of rust and I do not oil it very often.

 

Here is what the finish looks like afterwards:

 

Here is another picture:

 

 

The only gripe I have with this is whether or not it will give me any extra rust protection over a media blasted finish. I think what I am getting at is I would prefer the look of a non blued, matte finish. I am just greatly afraid it will rust every time I turn my back on it. This is what I am most curious about right now. I would just like to know how the gun would hold up if I had it glass bead blasted and simply oiled with excess wiped off with a rag. Your rifle appeared to turn out very well by the way. Very even finish as you said. 

 

Why not touch up the affected areas with cold blue?

 

I don't think it would all match up very well. There are some spotting areas that I would like to address by blasting it.

[Dolomite_supafly]

Glass bead blasting only smoothes or polishes the surface so it will not hold oil very well. Media blasting with aluminum oxide makes the exterior rough so it holds oil a million times better. It is about as rough as a parkerized finish and holds oil just as well. I oil it down once or twice a year with 50/50 synthetic 30 weight and ATF. It gets used every 3-4 months and so far I have not seen any rust anywhere. Trust me when I say I do not baby my guns or go through anything special to protect them.

 

I am not sure if just media blasting will be enough if oiled. I used the creme from Brownells as added protection as well as giving it a decent dark finish. Even cold blue offers protectin over bare steel.